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winter time is cam time.

This is a discussion on winter time is cam time. within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well its time to swap the heads and can once snow falls. I was looking at buying a 228 from ...

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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    winter time is cam time.

    Well its time to swap the heads and can once snow falls. I was looking at buying a 228 from Texas speed I have a set of 799 and that's all I've come up with. Anything else I would need aside from the rods and valve springs? Any input on what I could improve what I'm looking at? Thanks everyone.
    2002 WS6 A4 Slp lid,
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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    There are a few questions that need to be answered prior. What are your goals? Fun street car, all out race or something in between? For a cam swap I would suggest getting valve springs that have a max lift of .650ish that way you aren't restricted to low lift cams if you change your mind. I would also look at upgrading your oil pump and timing chain. I have a slp oil pump and c5r timing chain. I honestly wod look at a bigger cam as well but it all depends on what you are comfortable with and your goals. I have a 230/238 cam but that may not be good for you. I would talk to AI (Advanced Induction) about what you want and let them suggest or custom make a cam for you.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    My goal is something streetable I did forget to mention the oil pump and timing chain. I wasn't quite sure what I would need with the 228 where did you purchase your 230/238 cam what are the gains in power the 228r claimed 50 rwhp also what LSA would be best to give it a more mid range bubble as apposed to a chop?

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    My goal is something streetable I did forget to mention the oil pump and timing chain. I wasn't quite sure what I would need with the 228 where did you purchase your 230/238 cam what are the gains in power the 228r claimed 50 rwhp also what LSA would be best to give it a more mid range bubble as apposed to a chop?
    I purchased my cam from Phil at AI as mentioned earlier. Google Advanced Induction and you should find their page easily. A lot of what is streetable is all in the tune, so if you get a good tuner they can turn a monster cam into a streetable one but if you have a bad tuner....well that means the 228 could be horridly unstreetable. I believe my cam has gains between 65 and 70 hp with proper tuning and supporting mods it could be more . I got it based on what I wanted and what AI suggested to me for what I wanted. Not sure what you mean by bubble, but if you want it smoother and not choppy, then a lsa of 114 would probably be better for you.

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    ^^ All good info. I so need to stick a new bump stick in our car.

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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    Bubble I mean like a thump kinda sound I guess lol Idk. I heard a cammed 5th gen that wounded like shit cause of a choppy idle so I wanted a smoother lob to it. I looked at ai's page saying 450-470 with their h/c setup would've been nice to know before I purchased the 799 heads other than the buy was a steal. Also I'm in northern Michigan and no tuner in sight :/ one dyno but I have a friend who was tuning his rotary with someone he said was good so I'll have to get with him on it. Would a stall be required with the can shaft you use if I had it in my auto?

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    Bubble I mean like a thump kinda sound I guess lol Idk. I heard a cammed 5th gen that wounded like shit cause of a choppy idle so I wanted a smoother lob to it. I looked at ai's page saying 450-470 with their h/c setup would've been nice to know before I purchased the 799 heads other than the buy was a steal. Also I'm in northern Michigan and no tuner in sight :/ one dyno but I have a friend who was tuning his rotary with someone he said was good so I'll have to get with him on it. Would a stall be required with the can shaft you use if I had it in my auto?
    Okay then you would probably like the cam in a 114 lsa. Mine is a 112+2 lsa since I want a racecar like idle. I will be using a 4k stall, you may be able to go with a smaller one but I would ask AI. I would not go any smaller than 3600 though but I think a 4k would be optimal. Btw AI doesn't sell heads they sell head work. You could send them your 799s and get a 232cc job or one of their other port jobs on it for around $1600. That is what I am going to do once I have the cash except with my 243s. I live by Frost who does the mail order tunes so I plan on taking my car down to him after I finish my rebuild.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 09-27-2013 at 08:21 AM.

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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    So cam, timing chain, oil pump, rods, springs, stall 3500 min , tune (looking at frost) and patience lol ok I'll check into the ai but was steered towards Texas speed by members here I'll just have to do research.

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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    So cam, timing chain, oil pump, rods, springs, stall 3500 min , tune (looking at frost) and patience lol ok I'll check into the ai but was steered towards Texas speed by members here I'll just have to do research.
    Texas Speed has horrible customer service from my experience. AI has excellent. If you don't need help and know exactly what you want go with tsp but ai produces better cams in my opinion. I would do vengeance racing if you are bent on one of those speed shops. I have a whole cam swap write up on here:
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/camshaft-swap-how-166914/

    Also don't forget a new crank bolt (I would go with arp), crank pulley puller, and transmission cooler.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 09-30-2013 at 03:02 PM.

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    Not looking at speed shops just trying to get what I need. Whoever treats me and my needs like its important to them and being helpful is who gets my money. Also if I'll be working through winter on different things as the funds arise would dropping the engine be a good idea? So the car can be out of the way? Or would you suggest against it? I hear it doesn't save time but would hassle be saved in the scope of things?

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    Not looking at speed shops just trying to get what I need. Whoever treats me and my needs like its important to them and being helpful is who gets my money. Also if I'll be working through winter on different things as the funds arise would dropping the engine be a good idea? So the car can be out of the way? Or would you suggest against it? I hear it doesn't save time but would hassle be saved in the scope of things?
    Then you should be good. What I did was get the cam and springs from AI and the other stuff from the ws6store (they have most stuff cheaper than other places for the same item). I would remove the engine if that isn't an issue to you. It is easier to work on with it out of the car but it isn't that hard to do with it in the car either. I found the pickup tube bolt for the oil pump extremely hard to work on with the engine in the car. And if you drop it in the pan you have to remove the k member or at least drop it a bit to get it out. Removing the engine makes it much easier, I wish I would have done that the first time lol. I am doing a stock rebuild with some performance components so the cam swap this time will be much easier with the engine out of the car.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 10-01-2013 at 10:19 AM.

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    Dropping the engine to do a cam swap in a Ls car is way overkill in my opinion. Doing a cam swap is not hard at all with the engine in the car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jsteele90 View Post
    Dropping the engine to do a cam swap in a Ls car is way overkill in my opinion. Doing a cam swap is not hard at all with the engine in the car.
    You misinterpreted what I was asking is if it would be a good idea. Not easier I was lookin at doing a few other mods. Plus I have larger hands and would like to be able to hang over the engine. So having the car out of the way as opposed to a 5 square foot space for the engine in my friends garage would be better.

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    You can easily support the engine in the car if you want to drop the K-member and oil pan. Built this with rectangular steel I picked up for around $20, some scrap wood, chain and bolts:


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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You can easily support the engine in the car if you want to drop the K-member and oil pan. Built this with rectangular steel I picked up for around $20, some scrap wood, chain and bolts:

    Click for full size
    I have no comment, but if it works haha you're a damn genius.

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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    Also on an unrelated note would a new intake and throttle body be worth it or just a port job on the intake and heads?

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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    Also on an unrelated note would a new intake and throttle body be worth it or just a port job on the intake and heads?
    What intake do you have? If you have the ls6 you should be fine as is otherwise I would upgrade to tje ls6 or the FAST 102. No point really to do any porting until you send your heads out to get ported. You can then get the intake port mached to the heads or have the heads port matched to the intake.

    I upgraded to a FAST 102 intake and a NW 102 TB a while ago. They are real nice but real expensive. I have about $1500 in the intake set up.

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    Member freaky57fast's Avatar
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    So to port my intake (ls6) btw with the 799s would help just as much as a non port 102 set up for half the price most likely less cause I know a guy from a machine shop that does them on the side.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freaky57fast View Post
    So to port my intake (ls6) btw with the 799s would help just as much as a non port 102 set up for half the price most likely less cause I know a guy from a machine shop that does them on the side.
    Can't really answer that but I would be inclined to say no not as much as the FAST, better than stock for sure. The ports on the FAST are bigger than the ls6's with room to port as well.

    You should be fine with that. Many don't do a port job either when they do a cam swap so it isn't a must but it will help. I went with the FAST because I will be going the max effort route in the future.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 10-05-2013 at 01:49 PM.

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    Member robs98mysticZ's Avatar
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    i did tsp 228r 112 lsa, tsp hardend chromoly p.r., tsp ported ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, comp 918 springs, ngk tr55 plugs, msd wires, and did the innovate lc1 while i was at it. if your doing heads you might as well freshen up the lifters and trays

    i also have lts ory and cb along with lid


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