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Why is my car getting 160 miles to a tank?

This is a discussion on Why is my car getting 160 miles to a tank? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Could it be the large cammed 402?? Actually, I do have a couple questions. When to start running synthetic oil ...

  1. #1
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Why is my car getting 160 miles to a tank?

    Could it be the large cammed 402??


    Actually, I do have a couple questions.
    When to start running synthetic oil in the motor? Running the cheapest damn oil I can right now. Motor has about 350 miles on it.

    Also...
    What makes a large cammed car so warm blooded??

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    is it tuned? if so, by who?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Dragon Race.
    Not a full on dyno tune yet...waiting to break it in first.
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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    well alot of it has to do with the tune. im sure they just did enough to keep it running. There isnt any part throttle tuning done to it is there? Id make sure your DFCO is on until they begin to tune it. That should help out a bit. Also, lighten the right foot a bit

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I knew the mileage would suck.
    Not worried about that yet.

    I am wondering when I should start up on synthetic oil though.

    When I say warmed blooded...I mean it runs much better warm. When cold it bounces trying to find idle, and surges badly.
    The surge is there no matter what...but worse first thing in the morning.

    Right now the coolant temp is stay steady at 180-185 with an iron blocked 402. Higher when stopped for any amount of time. I am happy with that.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I have a brand new motor.
    The other discussion was concerning just a new cam.
    I think.


    This is my thinking on a new motor. Some say lay into the loud pedal as soon as everything is running correctly. Some say be nice.
    I say...abuse it to a point. Run it hard, accel and decel to/from 4500 RPM's. But don't go out and run it to 6500 right away.

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    Member keliente's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

    When I say warmed blooded...I mean it runs much better warm. When cold it bounces trying to find idle, and surges badly.
    The surge is there no matter what...but worse first thing in the morning.
    That issue is solely up to the tuner. A good one will be able to iron out the problems regardless of whether it is a 346 or a 408.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Oh I know.

    I had heard some guys saying that you should allow a heavily cammed car to warm up before driving. I normally start and go. Obviously staying down in the RPM's until warm.
    Any truth to that??

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    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    I run a big cam on a forged 350 with stage 2 heads and yes, warming the car up is a good idea. In the mornings on a cold start, it takes me days to pump enough vacuum up just to start the damn thing up! My car is tuned for the big cam and I still bounce when cold and laying down the brakes hard at the end of a run even with the vacuum canister which I do highly recommend you look into. But on cold days, I usually warm the car up for a good 5-10 minutes or when the needle starts to move or else you'll have an issue with taking off and fighting idle because big cams, use lots of vacuum. Oh and the oil question. I changed my oil on a fresh rebuild at 200 miles with regular motor oil, non synthetic. From what I know, there's still chemicals in the block so after 200 miles you should change out your oil because the chemicals can break down the oil additives such as the viscosity thickeners. At 1000 miles you can run your normal synthetic. I did the same process and no problems. I also went WOT a couple times but babied it, meaning no lead footing and generally under 4k rpm's. The WOT runs according to my engine builder was necessary to seat the bearing and it's actually good to wind it up once or twice during break in. But that's my rant.
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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Sounds about right.

    I haven't had any vacuum issues with it. I also don't drive it if it is too cold. I have my Grand Am for that.
    Thanks for the help guys/gals!

    I have changed the oil a couple times already because of minor issues. Just wanted to get the oil out for fresh stuff. Just in case.
    Probably gonna change it one more time (400-450 miles) this week using cheapo oil.

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    Member silverTA2002's Avatar
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    silver
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    Synthetic engine oil helps reduce engine wear.

    ALWAYS use it.

    No point in starting at 100k miles when the engine is already worn.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Right.
    But I am not putting synthetics in it for break-in. What I was wondering is what mileage most guys/gals are starting a newer motor on synthetics.

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