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Thread: what is wrong with my car
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05-14-2008, 04:18 PM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- colorado
- Posts
- 5
NBM- 1998 Z28
what is wrong with my car
i drove it for about ten min and at got real hot, coolant level is fine didnt drive it hard, it wasn't stop and go. wtf
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05-14-2008, 04:28 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Mayberry....(Indiana)
- Posts
- 1,634
Black- 2004 GTO
'04 gto M6 slp ceramic coated headers,B&m sport shifter,harrop cover,3.5"aluminum BMR driveshaft, BMR axle stubs, BMR Half shafts, BMR SFC's, loudmouth2 exaust,90mm FAST T/B,Magancharger(high helix upgrade)......other misc. suspension,Cross drilled, slotted rotors. Meth Kit, spraying @ 3psi and up
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05-14-2008, 06:15 PM #3
Ya I would guess thermostat.
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05-15-2008, 03:51 AM #4
are the fans kicking on? Have you had any work done to it that would've introduced air to the coolant system?
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05-15-2008, 05:25 AM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- colorado
- Posts
- 5
NBM- 1998 Z28
the fans are kicking on but dont seem to cool it off so i turn it off. no work has beeen done to my car to introduce air into my coolant system.
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05-15-2008, 06:51 AM #6
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05-15-2008, 07:28 AM #7
start it up when it is cool with the radiator cap off. After 5 minutes you should see coolant flow from the thermostat opening. If there is no movement then it's the thermostat. Don't leave it running too long without the cap off.
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05-15-2008, 07:35 AM #8
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- SATX
- Posts
- 847
Pewter- 2000 Trans Am
common Cooling sytems Issues
1: Thermostat (always go there first if its stuck close then water is not circulating to the engine block) you can check it by feeling the return line from the block to the radiator if its not hot then the thermostat is closed, same as if its flowing slowly. Theres a dirtier way of checking it, but its really risky, just open the cap and you can see if its circulating, the coolant level is supposed to be an inch or two bellow the neck if the thermostat is working, if its cloed then the water will be over flowing out.
2: Air in System, In your case your free from this...
3: Bad Timig, your sparkplugs could be fouled out
4: bad water pump, your WP could be leaking
More Advanced and Serious Issues
1: blown head gasket, if you drive you car while on or near H you can blow out your gasket, thus resulting in major Head and block resurfacing, could be a sign of a good thing if you look at it my way... You can get some nice heads and cam install.
2: AC condenser or Compressor Malfuntioning, belive it or not, wether or not your running your AC or not if the compressor is malfunctioning It could take your water pump with it. an a bad condenser you notice it when you turn up your ac and your temp goes thru the roof.
3: Broken Heater Core, if your heater core breaks then this could lead to a loss of RF its also a bit pricey to replace.
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05-15-2008, 08:42 PM #9
my water pump went bad too, there was coolant leaking out of the weep hole, so I replaced my water pump and as a bonus it came with a new thermostat and rubber gaskets and it works great for being a Cardone.
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05-24-2008, 06:22 PM #10
I just responded to someone else with a heater core issue - there about 115 off of ebay for a good oem one. Dont go for the cheapy here is the replacement steps. You could just replace the heater core it's VERY simple to do total time for beginers - 2.5 hours less with skinny hands and organized tools? there are three bolts holding the glove box on remove those (black screws) then there is one metal clip on the back of the plastic upper cover then two pastic clips from the top of the plastic cover that have to come out. Then you will see a round cover looking deal (slightly to the left) there are 4 small copper anodized bolts holding this cover on - remove those then unclamp and push the wiring harnes out of the way and carefully pull down on the cover. VOILA you now see your leaking sucky heater core with the dex cool soaked foam around it. you have just one more copper looking bolt holding a metal retainer plate that keeps the core still remove that and boom you are DONE for now under the dash - NOW go to the hood pop that thing and look into the back above the infamous #8 spark plug (passenger side upper firewall for the challenged) you will see two hoses side by side with the P.I.T.A retainer clips it will come from the firewall - obviously, and go from Metal to rubber to metal again. slide forward - or to the front of the car those two clips and carefully pull wiggle jiggle and curse the hoses off - DONE from under the hood for now - back inside with ya - now CAREFULLY remove the heater core with something protecting your carpet (remember coolant is still in that bad boy). Replace rubber grommet at the lines from the old to the new heater core and REVERSE the install. Now you have just acomplished the correct way to do it and if weight on the car is an issue a bottle of ex lax before race day will help compensate for the weight of having a defrost feature heh heh. Hope this helps my friend as I had to just jump in and do it myself so been there and I feel your frustration!!! One other note I at first bought a "new core" from pep boys this thing looks like a mongaloid had chewed on the fins for about 3 hours before they slam dunked this copper coated turd into the box - the fit and finish was at best HORRIFIC. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND BUY IT FROM A RELIABLE PARTS DEALER. I have no clue what pep boys is selling as far as heater cores but this one was done before it ever reached my car!!! Thanks for wasting my time and gas pepboys - choke on it!
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