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What is the max. lift with a 1.6 rocker

This is a discussion on What is the max. lift with a 1.6 rocker within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ^^ what is that supposed to mean ?...

  1. #21
    Junior Member blackmagicturbo's Avatar
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    ^^ what is that supposed to mean ?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackmagicturbo View Post
    why 4800 ? it doesnt make power after that ?
    It still makes power after 4800 but it seems to like that rpm best, at that rpm it seems to pin you back in the seat and bark the tires, above that it pulls but theres no bark. I guess i just like to hear the tires .I shift at 4800 from 1st to 2rd than at 5200 to 3rd.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    I don't like throwing around peak numbers and such, but if you have a properly matched carb, intake, headers, ignition system and a good tune. I think you would be more than impressed.
    My setup: 350 bored 60 over,comp cam 480/480 lift with the 1.6 rockers.Rpm intake.750 holley vac.Hooker headers and 2.5 inch exhaust,with hooker mufflers.TcI streetfighter Trans and a 2200-2400 stall and 373 pos. rearend.Accel ignition.and the 194/150 vertec heads. thinking about getting the 202/160 heads with 575 lift. what do you think of the setup?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    Yeah, there is alot of stuff that goes into a biuld. But I am a "HEADS" guy. Meaning I biuld an engine around a set of heads, because you want to flow optimum for your heads, there is plenty of more depth to it. But I personally love the vortechs, they make great power HP and TQ I would say there is no reason to not take it past 5,500. So I recomend a comp cams P/N cca-12-212-2. That will flow your heads to there potentional. It will take a 406 to around 5,500 and a 355 to about 6,000... If your scared stay on the porch, jk. You'll have a little rumble, but not bad and start making good power around 3,000 in that 350 it will start making noise 4,500 you'll be considering letting off and at 5,800 you'll need to change your shorts.
    you are right I feel everything you said about the noise and the wanting to get off the pedel or go ahead and shift it.at 5200 it sounds as if it is on its last go round so I shifts it at 5200 to high.I guess I better stay on the porch.

  5. #25
    Junior Member blackmagicturbo's Avatar
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    bigger valves will definitely help ...

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Fighter View Post
    you are right I feel everything you said about the noise and the wanting to get off the pedel or go ahead and shift it.at 5200 it sounds as if it is on its last go round so I shifts it at 5200 to high.I guess I better stay on the porch.
    Ha Ha, It's so boring on the porch!

    Here is the thing guy. Bigger valves in a VORTECH won't help YOU. Your heads a DEFIANTLY not restricting you! Also your carb, intake, and exaust, are not restricting you. You have a good setup. I like it. But if you want more power and the same rpms, you need one of two things, more compression, more displacent. (for the tuners I put boost in the displacement and compression category) But there is more to be had with that set up by taking up the rpm's 6,000 is SAFE. Your setup would be great @5,500 peak shift around 57-600 with about a 228-230 duration@ .050lift cam. About a 15-20% power increase... unless you have the cam and are just shifting early lol.
    RUDE, CRUDE, AND SOCIABLY UNACCEPTABLE.

  7. #27
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    Also the vortechs do like the 1.6 rockers.

    To sum myself up. If a part that flows air, I.E. carb, headers, heads whatever is not restricting you, there is little to no power to be gained from modifing it, until you change other dynamics, like cam, or displacement.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    Ha Ha, It's so boring on the porch!

    Here is the thing guy. Bigger valves in a VORTECH won't help YOU. Your heads a DEFIANTLY not restricting you! Also your carb, intake, and exaust, are not restricting you. You have a good setup. I like it. But if you want more power and the same rpms, you need one of two things, more compression, more displacent. (for the tuners I put boost in the displacement and compression category) But there is more to be had with that set up by taking up the rpm's 6,000 is SAFE. Your setup would be great @5,500 peak shift around 57-600 with about a 228-230 duration@ .050lift cam. About a 15-20% power increase... unless you have the cam and are just shifting early lol.
    I have the comp cam 12-212-2 the one I believe you talked about.I have 10to1 flat top pistons. Compression test shows 185 to 190 per clinder.I like the setup.plan on running it until it dies, than I hope to build a 383 .The duration on my cam is 230/230 480/480 lift.without the 1.6 rockers.
    Last edited by Street Fighter; 01-19-2011 at 05:06 PM.

  9. #29
    🤔 11s. blackbirdbrain89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    Yeah, there is alot of stuff that goes into a biuld. But I am a "HEADS" guy. Meaning I biuld an engine around a set of heads, because you want to flow optimum for your heads, there is plenty of more depth to it. But I personally love the vortechs, they make great power HP and TQ I would say there is no reason to not take it past 5,500. So I recomend a comp cams P/N cca-12-212-2. That will flow your heads to there potentional. It will take a 406 to around 5,500 and a 355 to about 6,000... If your scared stay on the porch, jk. You'll have a little rumble, but not bad and start making good power around 3,000 in that 350 it will start making noise 4,500 you'll be considering letting off and at 5,800 you'll need to change your shorts.
    with that being said what would u do with a 406 11.1-1 CR with a set of IK 180 heads port and polished? o and a flat tappet cam.?

    then while ur at is do the same with 11.3-1 CR with a set of track one heads P&P with a full roller set up.

    o and there both BRODIX heads.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbirdbrain89 View Post
    with that being said what would u do with a 406 11.1-1 CR with a set of IK 180 heads port and polished? o and a flat tappet cam.?

    then while ur at is do the same with 11.3-1 CR with a set of track one heads P&P with a full roller set up.

    o and there both BRODIX heads.
    Never ran either one, if I said anything it would just be assumptions. Also don't really feal like bench biulding lol, not my thing.
    Last edited by Jay37; 01-19-2011 at 10:32 PM.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Fighter View Post
    I have the comp cam 12-212-2 the one I believe you talked about.I have 10to1 flat top pistons. Compression test shows 185 to 190 per clinder.I like the setup.plan on running it until it dies, than I hope to build a 383 .The duration on my cam is 230/230 480/480 lift.without the 1.6 rockers.
    With all respect, I feel like your loosing alot of power shifting that early.

    Brother man, I think your set up is bad ass, It's one I always try to push, no bull shit I keep one of those cams on hand all the time. They just run great on a set of stock vortechs with 1.6's or a good port and polish 2.02 fuellie head. But I prefer the stock vortech setup. in a fairly light car a setup like that can make some really expensive engines look like they have the flew. LOL.
    Last edited by Jay37; 01-19-2011 at 10:35 PM.

  12. #32
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    Also, other than budget. I would like to put the 406 seed in your ear. If you are trying to get something new. That is my vote. I feel that 383, are just the little brother... If your going to take the stroke of a 400 why not take the bore too? Any storie of reliablity issues with them is bull shit. All you hear is PART of what happened, the part where it blows up. Not the part where the wrong heads, fly wheel, or what ever got put on the engine, they always leave that part out!

    Best of luck,

    Jay.

  13. #33
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    if your going to build a 383 u can spend the same on a 421 +CI... theres 2 way to make TQ and or CR

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    With all respect, I feel like your loosing alot of power shifting that early.

    Brother man, I think your set up is bad ass, It's one I always try to push, no bull shit I keep one of those cams on hand all the time. They just run great on a set of stock vortechs with 1.6's or a good port and polish 2.02 fuellie head. But I prefer the stock vortech setup. in a fairly light car a setup like that can make some really expensive engines look like they have the flew. LOL.
    I did the 5200 rpm shift,believe me it took alot to not shift it at 4800. It did the noise thing but I stayed in it until 5200, and I am glad I did.Now I need to get some kind of traction coming out of the hole[Wheel-hop] All I have is a set of slapper bars that don't seem to be helping.Any ideals?

  15. #35
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    Cheater slicks? Shocks? heavy duty springs? Calcuate instant center/drive angles?

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