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What to do now????

This is a discussion on What to do now???? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So I spun a damn rod bearing on my Z, and we took the bottom end apart, and low and ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member yanoZ28's Avatar
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    What to do now????

    So I spun a damn rod bearing on my Z, and we took the bottom end apart, and low and behold the crank is super-F'ed. needs to be replace, as does two rods.

    So since i need to do a full rebuild, im thinking cam, and boring it out 383, 408, etc.

    Any ideas for a 4500$ budget, the best way to go. I want to be looking at 450-500 to the crank, off the bottle. but want to keep some decent daily driving reliability. My shop down here told me im out of my damn mind.

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    LSwut tep98ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yanoZ28 View Post
    So I spun a damn rod bearing on my Z, and we took the bottom end apart, and low and behold the crank is super-F'ed. needs to be replace, as does two rods.

    So since i need to do a full rebuild, im thinking cam, and boring it out 383, 408, etc.

    Any ideas for a 4500$ budget, the best way to go. I want to be looking at 450-500 to the crank, off the bottle. but want to keep some decent daily driving reliability. My shop down here told me im out of my damn mind.
    stroke it to 383, stroker kit, cam, LS6 heads, build up the top end. it'll be awesome.

    and hell yes on NA

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    Junior Member yanoZ28's Avatar
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    yeah deff n/a, is it safe to go any larger than a 383 on a stock ls1 block

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yanoZ28 View Post
    yeah deff n/a, is it safe to go any larger than a 383 on a stock ls1 block
    Not on the LS1 aluminum block without re-sleeving the motor.

  6. #6
    Junior Member yanoZ28's Avatar
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    Aight good stuff, im prolly gonna punch it out to 383, forged internals, ported heads, 590/610 cam, and i already have 90mm TB and L/T, ORY waiting.

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    A good hone is about all you can do to these blocks without resleeving.

    If it is a 98 block the sleeves are a little thin and you can only go .005 over to a 3.903" bore.

    The 99 up blocks can go up to .010 over and there is a good selection of pistons in either 3.905" or 3.908".

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    Senior Member grouch0jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yanoZ28 View Post
    So I spun a damn rod bearing on my Z, and we took the bottom end apart, and low and behold the crank is super-F'ed. needs to be replace, as does two rods.

    So since i need to do a full rebuild, im thinking cam, and boring it out 383, 408, etc.

    Any ideas for a 4500$ budget, the best way to go. I want to be looking at 450-500 to the crank, off the bottle. but want to keep some decent daily driving reliability. My shop down here told me im out of my damn mind.
    what exactly happens when you 'spin a rod bearing'?

  9. #9
    Junior Member yanoZ28's Avatar
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    The bearin b/t the connecting rod and crank breaks down,cracks, dissenegrates, etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grouch0jr View Post
    what exactly happens when you 'spin a rod bearing'?

    The bearing spins in the block and usually covers the oiling hole and the bearing runs dry. As happened to the OP it can F up the crank too.

    To the OP i would get a forged LB and be done with it. A 347 will be about $3K and a 383 about $3700

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