What do I need to get RPMs?

**hpglow** · 04-26-2009, 02:42 PM

All my exp has been with diesels so RPMs have never been an issue you just know that at about 5400rpm you can't go any higer due to the combustion rate of diesel fuel. So now that I'm in forgien land and have to deal with stuff like pre-detonation and things like that I was wondering what I need to do to get a good solid 7000 to 8000 redline without having to set my idle at 3000.

If there are any websites or books that I need to read into please let me know. I only have $10,000 on a new engine and trans and I want to get the most out of it.

Thank you all.

**mark21742** · 04-27-2009, 12:12 AM

what motor are you working on, what is it going in and what do you plan on using it for?

basicly in a gasoline engine your limiting factor is your valve train and cam shaft. to get the high rpm motor your asking for and have it making power that high you will need at the least valve springs, hardened pushrods, cam, intake, head work and exhaust.

**hpglow** · 04-27-2009, 05:04 PM

I am looking at getting the LQ/LS iron block. The intent is to make a higher RPM motor with some street manors at lower RPMs. I really want a 6 speed.

I haven't decided what this is going to go into but what I really want is a Ols Cutlass Supreme, or a 81 - 88 Monte Carlo.

At this point in time I'm just focusing on getting an engine and getting it going.

**mark21742** · 04-27-2009, 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by hpglow

I am looking at getting the LQ/LS iron block. The intent is to make a higher RPM motor with some street manors at lower RPMs. I really want a 6 speed.

I haven't decided what this is going to go into but what I really want is a Ols Cutlass Supreme, or a 81 - 88 Monte Carlo.

At this point in time I'm just focusing on getting an engine and getting it going.

I always love the bodies of the 80's montes and regals.
personally if I were doing it, I'd look for a slightly wrecked (preferably rearended) 2000up F-body for a full donor car so you have all the little bits parts, wiring and computer you need.
if the donor has a good motor in it, sell the motor and swap it for the iron block

**hpglow** · 04-28-2009, 04:22 PM

That is a good idea. My dad suggested looking for a totaled truck to get the iron block. I may have to visit some junk yards and see how much they want to rape me for that stuff.

**mark21742** · 04-28-2009, 04:35 PM

I don't know how deep your wallet is, but you could even pick up a new iron shortblock and swap all the ls1 parts over to it.

**hpglow** · 05-17-2009, 02:04 PM

Ok here are the components I intend on purchasing. If any of this stuff is crap or not worth the money being asked let me know. My budget is $10,000 for the engine, I quickly found out that I will be doing the turbo option later down the road. But that is ok I want this thing to be rock solid for when that time comes.

Parts List:
Block: LS/LQ series iron block bored for 4" pistons.

Crank: Lutani Forged Crank

Connecting Rods: Lutani Billet Alumn

Heads: Texas-speed Heads & Cam package with 224R Cam (114 LS), hardend pushrods, valves, and a ported oil pump.

Pistons: Weisco 4" dish pistons. Haven't decided on the # of -cc's yet.

Air intake: FAST 92mm intake and throttle body

Injectors: 55 lb/hour

Engine management system: Any suggestions?

Oil Pan: Haven't decided yet.

My goal it to hit over 600 hp after I get the money to turbo this build. Tell me what you all think. Thanx in advance.

**Hi-Po** · 05-17-2009, 02:17 PM

What stroke crank? Might as well get a 4" stroke crank. Could probably save money and not go Lunati on the crank. Thats up to you. Lunati pro mod billet rods are top notch rods man. Good choice.

If your not going turbo for a while, I would go larger in the cam area. Thats also up to you. You need to figure out how long it will be until you get a full turbo setup. IMO, putting a 224 cam into a very nicely built engine with top of the line components would be a waste. As would be putting anything other then a 4" crank.

What car is it going into? If Fbody, then just pick up a used LS,fbody oil pan. I just saw one for sale used. If you are spending more money on your crank then you are on your heads, I would reverse that. A callies crank would be fine for most applications. What heada re you going with? I would hate to see a full Lunati bottom end, end up with some Patriot stage 1 heads

.

**hpglow** · 05-17-2009, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

What stroke crank? Might as well get a 4" stroke crank. Could probably save money and not go Lunati on the crank. Thats up to you. Lunati pro mod billet rods are top notch rods man. Good choice.

If your not going turbo for a while, I would go larger in the cam area. Thats also up to you. You need to figure out how long it will be until you get a full turbo setup. IMO, putting a 224 cam into a very nicely built engine with top of the line components would be a waste. As would be putting anything other then a 4" crank.

What car is it going into? If Fbody, then just pick up a used LS,fbody oil pan. I just saw one for sale used. If you are spending more money on your crank then you are on your heads, I would reverse that. A callies crank would be fine for most applications. What heada re you going with? I would hate to see a full Lunati bottom end, end up with some Patriot stage 1 heads

.

I was looking at AFR 205CC, or precision race heads but I admitantly know little about heads. The engine will likely be going into an 81 to 88 monty.

**Hi-Po** · 05-17-2009, 04:01 PM

No comparison between PRC and AFR. I would LOVE to have AFR 205's on my 364. The low-mid range air velocity is suberb in those heads. Great heads.

**hpglow** · 05-17-2009, 06:35 PM

Thanx for the input, I think I will go with the Texas Speed 233/239 cam at 113 LS instead.

**00z28bubba** · 05-17-2009, 06:59 PM

even with a big cam i dont think you would be hittin higher than a 7k rev limit. or at least have a reason to have a limit higher than 7k. these lsx's make power too low for any revs higher than 7k usually. a stock ls1 drops in the curve at 5400 which is why it shifts at under 6k. i just dont think you would have any usable power curve that far up on the rpms. i dont know if boost pushes the curve farther up the meter, but i know a "big cam" will. considerably bigger than that 23x/23x that you have in mind. but that will need the proper supporting mods to get it higher too. i just have never heard of a high revving lsx that makes power in the range you want. if there is someone who does know of something like that they will most likely chime in though.

**00z28bubba** · 05-17-2009, 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by hpglow

Ok here are the components I intend on purchasing. If any of this stuff is crap or not worth the money being asked let me know. My budget is $10,000 for the engine, I quickly found out that I will be doing the turbo option later down the road. But that is ok I want this thing to be rock solid for when that time comes.

Parts List:
Block: LS/LQ series iron block bored for 4" pistons.

Crank: Lutani Forged Crank

Connecting Rods: Lutani Billet Alumn

Heads: Texas-speed Heads & Cam package with 224R Cam (114 LS), hardend pushrods, valves, and a ported oil pump.

Pistons: Weisco 4" dish pistons. Haven't decided on the # of -cc's yet.

Air intake: FAST 92mm intake and throttle body

Injectors: 55 lb/hour

Engine management system: Any suggestions?

Oil Pan: Haven't decided yet.

My goal it to hit over 600 hp after I get the money to turbo this build. Tell me what you all think. Thanx in advance.

go for a stroker for that price tag. you can get a 408 ready for boost with that price tag. or you might be able to find a local company that will do that stroker for similar money. make some more calls to different companies to see what will or won't work and what the prices are.

**mark21742** · 05-17-2009, 09:15 PM

like the others said, your build looks pretty solid. since your looking at turbo charging I'd look for a cam with a 116-118lsa so you have less overlap for the boost.
as far as engine managment, I'd go with a 2000+ F-body stock computer and Hptuners program and buy the 3bar credits with real time tuning. goto (www.hptuners.com) and do some reading on the package. trust me buy the pro package and you won't regret it.