want to spin 6500-7000 rpm?

**onebadassws6** · 02-20-2009, 02:32 PM

I have a 99 ws6 m6. I only have slight bolt ons now tb,lid,ory i wanted to take the redline up more i was going to do rockers arms 1.8 and pust rods. what else would i need and whick brandds are the best? thanks

**Hi-Po** · 02-20-2009, 02:44 PM

why 1.8 rocker's? Going to need a cam that wants to spin that high RPM. Those 1.8's will get in the way. Judging by your mod list so far... you have some stuff you need IMO. People spin to 7000 on stock bottom end often, recommend ARP rod bolts. I would want them if I was spinning to 7000 RPM, but Im not

. Personally, I wouldnt want to ever spin a stock shortblock to 7000 RPM.

Search, 7000 RPM maybe. I bet that turns something up. Search on Tech also. Basically, just start reading up. You will need a large cam, a good valve train to go along with it... and probably a good set of heads.

**ibanez7** · 02-20-2009, 03:26 PM

there is no point in reving higher or shifter higher in the rpms unless your car is still making the power.

after my cam swap, i now shift at 7200 rpms. my car was still making power beyond 7200

-chromoly pushrods
-ovate wire valve springs
-high flow oil pump
-double roller timing chain

those four things will help keep the engine dependable.

**Hi-Po** · 02-20-2009, 03:28 PM

How did that double roller work for you. I have heard nothing but bad things about them. I would personally go with LS2, or the Katech C5R chain.

**00z28bubba** · 02-20-2009, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by onebadassws6

I have a 99 ws6 m6. I only have slight bolt ons now tb,lid,ory i wanted to take the redline up more i was going to do rockers arms 1.8 and pust rods. what else would i need and whick brandds are the best? thanks

the redline is 6k because stockers and bolt ons make peak power around 5200-5500 and peak torque at 4000-4500 after mid 5000s then the power band just drops off. therefore you would be going slower. 4 bangers get a lil bit of power out of raising redlines but in most cases our cars dont. there is no positive effects of going over 6200 w/o internal upgrades(full valvetrain and supporting mods are cam, springs, timing chain, oil pump, pushrods, lifters, and spring retainers) just negative effects which personally i am not a fan of spun bearings, bent pushrods or anything else that could possibly happen.

**onebadassws6** · 02-20-2009, 03:58 PM

what about a gear drive anyone done that on an ls1? i have one on my truck and like it

**ibanez7** · 02-21-2009, 12:42 PM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

How did that double roller work for you. I have heard nothing but bad things about them. I would personally go with LS2, or the Katech C5R chain.

the katech i would trust.

my double roller has worked great, has about 8k miles on it!

**Hi-Po** · 02-21-2009, 01:01 PM

I went with LS2, chain and cam/crank sprocket.

**UTVols98** · 02-22-2009, 04:48 PM

FAST 90/90, big cam, better valve springs, hardened pushrods, ported heads, ls2 chain (I spin to 6800 with one and it's been fine), LT's w/ cat-back, bigger injectors, ARP rod bolts, LS6 oil pump

**side2000** · 02-22-2009, 06:23 PM

i twist mine to 7200 rpm religiously, and have for dozens of races. i ported my ls1 castings and got the decks milled.

there are some things you need to do to keep your motor together: here's what i did for my car, and it's what i do everytime i put somethin together that is gonna twist high:

-rod bolts (i would never spin even close to 7 grand w/o them)
-double roller timing chain (stock one is venerable, but you're in there it's a might as well)
-pushrods (any sensible individual would do these with a cam swap anyway)
-drill 1/2 inch holes toward the bottom of the lifter retainers to allow oil to drain
-port oil pump
-hydra rev kit (hydraulic lifters begin to lose their functionality at around 7000 rpm)

there are all sorts of other goodies like stud girdles that will help with valvetrain stability but are not necessary. if ya got the dough it's not a bad idea.
the higher you can spin, the more power you'll make. period.

**mark21742** · 02-22-2009, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by onebadassws6

what about a gear drive anyone done that on an ls1? i have one on my truck and like it

they have gear drives for the ls motors, but you can't use them in an engine with knock sensors

**RedVertTA** · 02-23-2009, 12:03 PM

How come people aren't mentioning lifters? Seems to me that one of the most important things to change, especially considering most members are above the 50k odometer range.

**onebadassws6** · 02-23-2009, 01:38 PM

Why cant you use a gear drive with knock sensors?

**mark21742** · 02-23-2009, 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by onebadassws6

Why cant you use a gear drive with knock sensors?

i guess they put out a resonant frequency that the knock sensors pickup as knock....i looked into them before and they advertised them as (not to be used with knock sensors), but they do offer them for our motors

**INMY01TA** · 02-24-2009, 06:09 PM

I spin my stock bottom end 01 to 7,000.

**LOUDMAN** · 02-24-2009, 06:31 PM

I had and ms3 w/ stock bottom end and valvetrain and slammed the 7200rpm rev limit every chance I got for 2yrs.

**side2000** · 02-25-2009, 06:17 AM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

I spin my stock bottom end 01 to 7,000.

you work at ELD?

**INMY01TA** · 02-25-2009, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by side2000

you work at ELD?

Fuck no! I wouldn't take my lawn mower to ELD.

**UTVols98** · 02-26-2009, 12:50 AM

Originally Posted by RedVertTA

How come people aren't mentioning lifters? Seems to me that one of the most important things to change, especially considering most members are above the 50k odometer range.

Cause, you can get away without changing them. Is it smart, no.