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VIDEO at Idle plus streetability and WOT with my 511rwhp / FTI

This is a discussion on VIDEO at Idle plus streetability and WOT with my 511rwhp / FTI within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Makes sense now. Still a very badass set-up. I love the all-motor 500+ cars. Did Mamo need the heads to ...

  1. #21
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Makes sense now.
    Still a very badass set-up. I love the all-motor 500+ cars.


    Did Mamo need the heads to port match the FAST??
    Been considering having that done soon.

  2. #22
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Makes sense now.
    Still a very badass set-up. I love the all-motor 500+ cars.


    Did Mamo need the heads to port match the FAST??
    Been considering having that done soon.
    Hi Mr. Luos,

    Call directly Tony MAMO at AFR and tell him what your intentions are, he will give you the right answer...

    I mean the job he did on my intake is simply amazing to look, and it works!!!

    Christian
    511 RWHP/455 RWTQ/346ci/NA/ FORMATO TUNED
    ETP 215 60cc FTI Prep/Cometic 0.040/FTI StreetSweeper Cam/Morel/Harland/Melling/ARP/COMP adjTimChain/3 pieces Pushrods/90/90 LS2 Shaner TB/FAST Tony Mamofied/LG ProSeries/ASP Pulley/BLAKWING & ICEBOX/LUCAS 42#/RPS TWIN CARBON & RPM Stage V
    HPTuner/OLSD

  3. #23
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    Holy frickin crap man. 185 that quick. Damn fast car man. Well done!!

  4. #24
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    An update from today for some of you that are asking about my future time at the drag strip.
    As I am not going to race the car immediately here is the following:

    As some members are asking me through PM questions on the shape of the power and torque curve of my engine, I am posting below an overlay from the day where I left the car to J&J (11/17/06) and the day where I had my car back (12/27/06).

    The general consensus was that there was a probability to lose power down low, in the 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm range...and I was convinced that going to a bigger camshaft and increasing the overlap could only lead to that.
    I was lucky with my combo, NO LOSS down low, matching in the zone and some little plus in term of power on the dyno.
    The accelerations time are EXACTLY the same on the road between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm !!! (always monitered the same way of my usual process that most of you are aware of through HP Tuner)

    The gain in power are after 4200 rpm but the HUGE GAIN in accelerations is between 4600 rpm and 7100 rpm, ~2 seconds on ~11 seconds....

    EXACT ACCELERATION TIME 4 GEAR 100 mph to 153 mph 4600 rpm/7000 rpm:

    11-16-06 SD 86 10.55am------:-----11.52sc
    02-17-07 SD ETP 15 11.05am--:------9.57sc


    May be those acceleration numbers are telling something to the specialist here around.
    That is the process used by all the newspapers and racing journalist in Europe to compare the power car to car, no traction or grip parameters induce in the game.



    Christian
    Last edited by miami993c297; 02-21-2007 at 04:54 AM.

  5. #25
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    2002 Corvette ZO6







    A follow-up on the situation.

    The Exo-Skel has been match balanced to the OEM ZO6 clutch assembly (12 grammes of correction on the outside circumference) and I am back on ZERO vibration as stock...the inconvenience I was feeling previously between 1800rpm/2200 rpm with the Spec is gone...

    The first take off after install was simply horrible, chatter was really strong...
    Ok for that and start the break-in process!!!

    After two nights of driving in town only stop and start at red lights the pedal release became acceptable and manageable.
    I decided to start beating on the clutch progressively with some soft launch always taking time to allow the clutch to cool down between each.
    I went harder on the launch as the pedal release was getting more precise and predictable.
    After a complete cool down I tried to start the car on a normal driving around town mode...Chatter was almost gone!!!

    The bedding in process appears to be a long one with this assembly, the different materials seems just to need time to melt all together, which can be a guaranty of durability...my guess is that it is going to be a better feel and efficiency with the time and use...let me know if I am right?

    The pedal travel is really short with all the OEM hydraulic, I am going to use a pedal travel stop/limiter, my thoughts are that pushing on the finger pressure plate all the way is not helping at all and anyway I don't need it to disengage a gear and have it engage smoothly and quickly, do you have any feed back on this?

    The pedal stiffness is not "very" different from the one I had with the Spec (a slight more amount from stock) and my wife can (after breaking-in done) drive the car in the traffic without any concerns.

    I am nicely surprised how silent this Exo-Skel is in Neutral.
    When I push on the pedal and disengage the pressure plate and have the two discs plus the intermediate plate floating the noise is really low for a “race assembly”.

    The remote bleeder mounted on the new slave is efficient and after the 3 first days of heat cycles and the first series of hot launches I decided to bleed my system, the OEM liquid had already turn black...which I guess is normal.
    Do you have any advice about a nice and efficient clutch fluid to use?

    On the tuning side I had to modify the Throttle Follower Decay (P/N) which indicates clearly that inertia is less with the Exo-Skel vs. the Spec Aluminum Flywheel…

    Waiting on your comments.
    Christian

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    Christian

    Not sure if anyone ever answered you, but dot3 or dot4 brake fluid is fine for the clutch, just change it often especially if you see it turning black. It really helps save the life on your new clutch. I use valvoline brake fluid, works great.

    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by miami993c297 View Post
    Hello all,

    An update from today for some of you that are asking about my future time at the drag strip.
    As I am not going to race the car immediately here is the following:

    As some members are asking me through PM questions on the shape of the power and torque curve of my engine, I am posting below an overlay from the day where I left the car to J&J (11/17/06) and the day where I had my car back (12/27/06).

    The general consensus was that there was a probability to lose power down low, in the 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm range...and I was convinced that going to a bigger camshaft and increasing the overlap could only lead to that.
    I was lucky with my combo, NO LOSS down low, matching in the zone and some little plus in term of power on the dyno.
    The accelerations time are EXACTLY the same on the road between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm !!! (always monitered the same way of my usual process that most of you are aware of through HP Tuner)

    The gain in power are after 4200 rpm but the HUGE GAIN in accelerations is between 4600 rpm and 7100 rpm, ~2 seconds on ~11 seconds....

    EXACT ACCELERATION TIME 4 GEAR 100 mph to 153 mph 4600 rpm/7000 rpm:

    11-16-06 SD 86 10.55am------:-----11.52sc
    02-17-07 SD ETP 15 11.05am--:------9.57sc


    May be those acceleration numbers are telling something to the specialist here around.
    That is the process used by all the newspapers and racing journalist in Europe to compare the power car to car, no traction or grip parameters induce in the game.

    Click for full size

    Christian

    Those are great numbers for NA. But I personally like FI.

  8. #28
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper99ta View Post
    Christian

    Not sure if anyone ever answered you, but dot3 or dot4 brake fluid is fine for the clutch, just change it often especially if you see it turning black. It really helps save the life on your new clutch. I use valvoline brake fluid, works great.

    John
    Hi John,
    Thank you for taking care.

    I did test two fluids with the Exo-Skel:
    -The OEM turned black after a period of two weeks, no trouble yet but I decided to bleed the complete system.

    -The second fluid is the Prestone DOT IV and so far the decoloration doesn't seem to affect it, working nicely...

    Christian
    Last edited by miami993c297; 07-22-2007 at 09:10 PM.

  9. #29
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    Those are great numbers for NA. But I personally like FI.
    Hi Ed Blown Vert,

    I appreciate the compliment...

    Do you have any kind of similar measurements for the acceleration time???

    Christian

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    Good to hear about the Prestone 4 brake fluid. I tried ATE Superblue (which I use on the brakes anyway) in the clutch and it ate through the seals in my Mcleod adjustable master cylinder so I went back to dot3 in the clutch.

  11. #31
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    2002 Corvette ZO6

    A quick technical Info to answer a question asked on another forum, it may be helpful.

    Without revealing the complete tune Jeremy FOMATO did on the dyno to extract those huge numbers for a so small reliable tame / wild engine, here is below how the AFR was set-up on the last pull which was the 8th one:




    Christian

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    with a LS1 2MuchFun's Avatar
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    is that $9795 parts + labor or just parts?

  13. #33
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2MuchFun View Post
    is that $9795 parts + labor or just parts?
    Hi 2MuchFun,

    This subject has been debated earlier, and yes as you can check below the $9795 is related to the parts...to obtain this level of reliability and efficiency this cost was the right one.
    You can build similar combo for a lot cheaper, around the half is maybe possible, not sure that it will last for 40 000 miles without any problems and with a lot of abuse...I have read a lot of bad stories of powerful engines going bad quickly!!!

    The labor subject as been debated as well and a DIY is possible here to save a lot...or some cheaper garage rates that I had no time to look for.


    J&J Performance LABOR :

    - Head and Camshaft install----------------------------$1961.00
    - Degree Cam / Check PtV Clearence--------------------$318.00
    - Wire 90 LS2 TB---------------------------------------$159.00
    - Rewire TB again to try fix problem----------------------$424.00
    - Install New headers bolts------------------------------$106.00
    - Change and install New Lifters---------------------------$53.00
    - 2 Hours of dyno plus base line and WB------------------$397.50

    TOTAL LABOR at J&J TAXES INCLUDED---------------$3842.50


    COMPONENTS OF MY COMBO

    HARLAND SHARP ROCKERS Rebuilt--------------$282.00
    A&A Alternator Bracket------------------------$110.00
    MELLING OIL PUMP Shipped--------------------$232.60
    LUCAS INJECTORS-----------------------------$303.90
    ADJUSTABLE TIMING CHAIN--------------------$208.80
    KATECH ROD BOLTS---------------------------$163.60
    SPECH II CLUTCH------------------------------$828.00
    LG PRO Long Tube Headers--------------------$1823.85
    FAST Intake and LS2 TB prepared--------------$1928.00
    2 ETP 215 60cc from FTI-----------------------$2350.00
    16 PS4 Valve Spring Upgraded-------------------$100.00
    2 COMETIC Head Gasket------------------------$170.00
    16 MOREL LIFTERS------------------------------$500.00
    16 THREE PIECES PUSH RODS--------------------$185.00
    ARP HEAD BOLTS--------------------------------$160.00
    1 STREETSWEEPER CAMSHAFT-------------------$450.00

    TOTAL PARTS SHIPPED TO MY HOUSE---------$9795.75

    Christian

  14. #34
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    Any plans for a stroker shortblock in the future?

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    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Nice ride Christian!

  16. #36
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johns00Z28 View Post
    Any plans for a stroker shortblock in the future?

    Hi Johns00Z28,

    My little engine is stronger than ever...

    I have to say that I am abusing it a lot and that the accelerations just stay the same at least or get better!!!

    I didn't had a chance to go back to the dyno, the engine is now plenty powerfull to 7200rpm and over (rev limiter now set at 7500 rpm)

    Then one day it will be tired, time to go for a new one...
    I will keep this ZO6 and will go for a stroker...and will let you know.
    Christian

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    Sounds awesome. I love it.

  18. #38
    Junior Member miami993c297's Avatar
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    As a follow up on my engine life after almost one year I am going to duplicate a post from another forum where the question was asked by a member:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ZOHSIX
    How many miles have you put on the engine since your rebuild and new found power of 511rwhp? How's it holding up? Any problems?


    Hi ZOHSIX,

    Since the engine was upgrade and Dynoded to 511 rwhp on December 27th 2006 I drove 4736 miles...and I now realize my business is keeping me away from driving my car...

    On the other hand a strong % of those miles are some fun miles...

    I have recorded under my HP Tuner log files 142 logs of acceleration similar as this one of this morning (always on a private road ):




    And I have 14 of those logs that are top speed only (this one is a 185 mph pull) :




    In every case the engine is used in its power band from 5500rpm to 7300 rpm (and some abuse to 7500+ rpm...Sorry Ed, but that's so fun!!!) as a daily bases, even when I cruise with my wife I can't prevent to use this engine where he is happy...

    Your second question is how it is holding up and the answer is better than ever...seems that the engine is at least as strong as first day out of the dyno...I would say the acceleration time are showing some improvements...and another dyno session will confirm it

    Your last question is "any problems"...and yes I had some
    TIRES and GEAR BOX and CLUTCH ...but that has been solved on the path .

    Other of that, every minutes I am driving this car when I am back to Florida is just pure fun with no worries!!!!

    Christian

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    wow u werent waiting for someone to asku what ur mods are have u?

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    Quote Originally Posted by miami993c297 View Post
    As a follow up on my engine life after almost one year I am going to duplicate a post from another forum where the question was asked by a member:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ZOHSIX
    How many miles have you put on the engine since your rebuild and new found power of 511rwhp? How's it holding up? Any problems?


    Hi ZOHSIX,

    Since the engine was upgrade and Dynoded to 511 rwhp on December 27th 2006 I drove 4736 miles...and I now realize my business is keeping me away from driving my car...

    On the other hand a strong % of those miles are some fun miles...

    I have recorded under my HP Tuner log files 142 logs of acceleration similar as this one of this morning (always on a private road ):

    Click for full size


    And I have 14 of those logs that are top speed only (this one is a 185 mph pull) :

    Click for full size


    In every case the engine is used in its power band from 5500rpm to 7300 rpm (and some abuse to 7500+ rpm...Sorry Ed, but that's so fun!!!) as a daily bases, even when I cruise with my wife I can't prevent to use this engine where he is happy...

    Your second question is how it is holding up and the answer is better than ever...seems that the engine is at least as strong as first day out of the dyno...I would say the acceleration time are showing some improvements...and another dyno session will confirm it

    Your last question is "any problems"...and yes I had some
    TIRES and GEAR BOX and CLUTCH ...but that has been solved on the path .

    Other of that, every minutes I am driving this car when I am back to Florida is just pure fun with no worries!!!!

    Christian
    Just noticed your post, because I have not been on this forum for a while.

    Do you know what compression are you running? I built my engine myself except for the SDPC short block and was having trouble making power. I did a lot of planning, and came up short of what I was hoping for. Only made 450/470 at the wheels. I was hoping for 500+. I have since talked to Patrick Guerra and found that my camshaft choice was wrong. My compression seems to be down, but the cam also changes the effective compression ratio.

    I had figured in a static compression ratio of 10.76, but I am thinking about going to 11.5 to get some lost power. My dynamic compression was 8.0, but should go to 8.5 with the new cam and head gaskets

    Thoughts?
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