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Valve Spring Install

This is a discussion on Valve Spring Install within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What method did you guys use to change your springs? Air fitting and pressurize the cylinders, TDC method, or with ...

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    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    Valve Spring Install

    What method did you guys use to change your springs? Air fitting and pressurize the cylinders, TDC method, or with the heads off the car. Doing my cam swap soon and was curious.
    TSP Torquer V2 cam, ported heads,fast 90/90 combo, LT's, 3400 stall, magnaflow CB, most other bolt ons, full suspension, t-top and HID conversion

    422 RWHP, 384TQ

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    Pressurize the heads, works pretty slick. but my motor was out of the car.

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    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
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    What psi do you set the regulator at?

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    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    set to around 50 psi

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    TDC here. I used the compressor a few years back on my daughter's Nissan, stepped out for a minute, compressor lost pressure and I came back to a little hole where the valve used to be Ended up pulling the head.

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    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    When you did the TDC, did the valves drop far and did you have any probs doing it that way

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    Junior Member Eddie 70's Avatar
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    Another thing I have thought about. When changing springs, is it necessary to change the valve stem seals? Going from stock style springs to double springs?

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    Simpsons Did it!! 98formy's Avatar
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    Can anyone else chime in about if they did their springs the TDC way. JUst curious if there were any problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98formy View Post
    When you did the TDC, did the valves drop far and did you have any probs doing it that way
    The valves will drop about 1/4" or less. No problem. Only two issues I can think of, one is making sure piston is at top (I was fortunate enough to have a boroscope to confirm), second is don't whack the valve stem to loosen a stuck lock or you could damage the valve. Other than that, works great.

    One other method I have used many times, get a length of 1/4" nylon braided soft rope. Feed through spark plug hole into piston, rotate crank until it stops, rope is up against valves and will hold them in place for the change. Once done, rotate crank back, pull rope and do next cylinder. Very old school method, but it works well and no risk of dropping a valve.

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    Junior Member Eddie 70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
    The valves will drop about 1/4" or less. No problem. Only two issues I can think of, one is making sure piston is at top (I was fortunate enough to have a boroscope to confirm), second is don't whack the valve stem to loosen a stuck lock or you could damage the valve. Other than that, works great.

    One other method I have used many times, get a length of 1/4" nylon braided soft rope. Feed through spark plug hole into piston, rotate crank until it stops, rope is up against valves and will hold them in place for the change. Once done, rotate crank back, pull rope and do next cylinder. Very old school method, but it works well and no risk of dropping a valve.
    I forgot about this method but have heard it works good. Never used it myself. One thing I would think you need to also do using this method is to also make sure you have the cylinder on the compression stroke.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie 70 View Post
    One thing I would think you need to also do using this method is to also make sure you have the cylinder on the compression stroke.
    If you pull all the rockers first, it shouldn't matter.

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    Junior Member Eddie 70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
    If you pull all the rockers first, it shouldn't matter.
    I have no idea where I checked out too when I was typing that.

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    SOM BTCH
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    i prefer the TDC method.

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    i filled the cyls with air when i did my double springs on my 5.0, and as long as you put the fitting in correctly and have an air compressor that holds plenty of air it works great. in fact i think i left the fitting in one of the cyls over night and it was fine. never came close to dropping a valve.

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie 70 View Post
    Another thing I have thought about. When changing springs, is it necessary to change the valve stem seals? Going from stock style springs to double springs?
    definitely change your valve seals while you have it apart. it sure would suck to be kicking yourself if you have leaking valve seals and all you had to do was change them out while you did the springs.

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    down in it 310stanger's Avatar
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    one major important tip about the air method is make sure you have at least 90psi going into the cyl. the more the better. i'd be really nervous about doing that job with only 50psi holding the valves closed.

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    Member jrgswhitels1's Avatar
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    Heck dude, I just did the rope method and purchased the new Crane valve spring compressor and finished the job in roughly 3 hours!! Easy, quick and fast!!!

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