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Upgrade from stock

This is a discussion on Upgrade from stock within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; i have a 99 z-28 and i am looking to put a bigger cam in it. my question is how ...

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    1999 Camaro Z-28

    Upgrade from stock

    i have a 99 z-28 and i am looking to put a bigger cam in it. my question is how big can i go without swapping lifters, push rods, rockers or springs. i want it to have a noticeable lope but nothing too crazy. any info would help.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    You cannot swap in ANY cam without changing at least the valvesprings.
    The stockers can only handle the stock lift, and no more.
    2008 Trailblazer SS
    Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    if i was to change only the springs what size cam would be compatible

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Let me ask a few questions first...

    1. It sounds like you are looking to stay low in cost. Is that an accurate observation?
    2. Do you drag race?
    3. What gears does the car have?
    4. Does the car have all the bolt ons?
    5. Is the car an automatic or manual?
    6. Is it your only car?

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    trying to stay low in cost. not a drag car. everyday driver. not sure on the rear gears. flowmaster exhaust with no cats, 4l60e, and yes its my only car.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Does it have headers?
    I assume stock stall converter?

    Honestly, it doesn't sound like it is ready for a cam to me.

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    what all would you recommend before the cam. headers are next on the list.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Headers, at least an LS6 intake, stall, tranny cooler.
    Stall should match the cam.

    When you get to that point, from what I have read so far, I would recommend a 228R from TSP and a Yank 3600 stall.

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    thanks for all your help

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    When you are ready to cam it, you want to find either a 224 or 228 type cam, and change the valve springs. Like mentioned, you can't swap to a bigger LS1 cam without at least swapping the springs. The other valvetrain components can remain stock with a 224 or 228 cam and will give you nice mid range power with a decent little lope. You need a stall, headers and other things first though.

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    the reason i asked is one of my buddies is buying a cam and he wants to get me one to, i guess the real question is can i put the cam and springs in before the other parts and still drive the car? i understand that it wont be running at full potential, but will it still run well enough to continue to drive it while i work on getting the other parts?

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afischer1289 View Post
    the reason i asked is one of my buddies is buying a cam and he wants to get me one to, i guess the real question is can i put the cam and springs in before the other parts and still drive the car? i understand that it wont be running at full potential, but will it still run well enough to continue to drive it while i work on getting the other parts?
    it would be pointless to do cam first. because a cam requires a tune to continue driving it regularly. the intake and exhaust will not NEED a tune for the car to run regularly. a tune would help but again it is not NEEDED. the cam and stall should be done at the same exact time for sure. assuming you dont want to pay for additional tunes. i mention paying for additional tunes because a full dyno tune down here for cammed cars will run you around 350-400 for the tune alone. some places charge for dyno time. so to spend the least amount of money do the intake and exhaust bolt ons. then cam, valvetrain, and stall at the same time. after that get it tuned once and your set. if all was properly installed all will run well after the tune. buying parts in order would make things easier but if you buy it all piece by piece and install all at one time that is less time the car is down.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afischer1289 View Post
    the reason i asked is one of my buddies is buying a cam and he wants to get me one to, i guess the real question is can i put the cam and springs in before the other parts and still drive the car? i understand that it wont be running at full potential, but will it still run well enough to continue to drive it while i work on getting the other parts?
    You would need a tune, but it would run without headers/intake etc. It would be WISE and ECONOMICAL, to sit on the cam, build the car for the cam and do the cam last, then get a tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by afischer1289 View Post
    the reason i asked is one of my buddies is buying a cam and he wants to get me one to, i guess the real question is can i put the cam and springs in before the other parts and still drive the car? i understand that it wont be running at full potential, but will it still run well enough to continue to drive it while i work on getting the other parts?
    Of course you can install a cam as your first mod and you will be able to drive the car.

    It isn't the optimum method, but you can do it.

    If you want a little lope, pick up a used 2002-2004 Z06 cam and springs. You can find them pretty cheap at times. You will need a slightly longer push rod because the base circle of thee cams with more lift is smaller.

    Will your current tune be able to adjust and stay within parameters w/o throwing any codes? You can never be certain, but your trims may adjust enough with a Z06 cam w/o needing a tune. A lot of the modifications to the Z tune have to do with the 243 heads and less spark advance needed for them.

    As far as not needing a tune with headers, lots of people throw 02 sensor codes after a header install because the headers do not retain the heat the oem exhaust retains and the sensor is farther away from the engine. Some people just drive with the code and others have to go to a tuner to get it disabled because it drives them bonkers to have the ses light on. Headers can cause a lean condition also, but the oem tune is so rich at WOT, you don't have to get too concerned about it.

    What is a dyno tune anyhow? For the most part it is someone charging you a bunch of money for wide open throttle AFR and spark advance adjustment.
    To actually tune a modded car takes a bunch of time driving and logging data and making adjustments for driveability that most tuners simply don't do. That's why people like myself get frustrated and just buy EFILive or HP Tuners.

    Bottom line is you can do it any way you want to do it.

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    Junior Member afischer1289's Avatar
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    thanks i really appreciate it, i think i'm just gonna start buying parts and install them all at one time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by afischer1289 View Post
    thanks i really appreciate it, i think i'm just gonna start buying parts and install them all at one time.

    Wise move.....

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    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    if installed properly that will save alot of headaches.

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