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Trying to adjust rocker arms on 2001 Trans Am WS6

This is a discussion on Trying to adjust rocker arms on 2001 Trans Am WS6 within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; By-the-way, thanks everybody for helping with this. It is much appreciated. :-) My car, which I bought new, is a ...

  1. #21
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    By-the-way, thanks everybody for helping with this. It is much appreciated. :-)

    My car, which I bought new, is a 2001 Black-on-black WS6 with 185,000 miles on it. The only mods so far are the LS7 lifters and LS2 lifter trays. I love the car and want to keep it, so whatever it takes to get it running well again is what I will do.
    Last edited by Loser; 01-22-2013 at 09:37 PM.

  2. #22
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    Please do. I would like to hear it.

  3. #23
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    A video will help some so please post when you can.

    Quote Originally Posted by Loser View Post
    I will watch for the post. If my rods are too long, could I have caused permanent damage?
    Simple answer = Yes, it can cause the springs to bind, bend the push rods, collapse a lifter, valves to hit the piston, or not even close properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Loser View Post
    Is a push rod length checker used after the heads are put back on? In other words, if I order one now, can I use it to check my push rod lengths just by removing my rockers, or do I need to dig deeper into the motor. If I can use it, I will order it now so it will be ready when the how-to is posted.
    Yes you have to have the head installed and torque to specs.

    Here are the directions I was given on how to use it

    Assuming you bought the Comp adjustable pushrod.

    Each turn of the pushrod is 0.050". When fully closed, it is 6.800". This is pushrod "gauge length" so you can't measure it directly as the pushrod length is actually based on the length between the ball ends where the ball end measures 0.140" in diameter. Assuming you are using stock rockers or a non-adjustable rocker with a correctly established wipe pattern (Note, wipe pattern should be established first.)

    1. Open the adjustable pushrod to the same length as your stock pushrods
    2. Close it down two turns
    3. Put your rocker rail on the head
    4. Make sure you cylinder (typically #1) is at top dead center on the firing stroke so both valves would be closed
    5. Put the pushrod in place on the intake valve and make sure it is in the lifter cup
    6. Install the rocker and snug down the bolt (don't need to torque, just make sure it is snug)
    7. Lift rocker tip up and down, if it "ticks" the pushrod is too short. If you can't easily move the rocker the pushrod is too long.
    8. You can try and adjust the pushrod in place buy my fingers are too fat so I end up pulling the rocker and adjusting the pushrod length. Go either shorter or longer 1/2 turn and try again.
    9. You are trying to get to the point where the lifter doesn't "tick tick" with the pushrod in place nor is the rocker snug. When you get the pushrod length such that you just barely get rid of the "tick tick", you have found "zero lash".
    10. When you have found zero lash, carefully remove the rocker and pushrod without rotating the pushrod.
    11. Tighten the pushrod until it is fully closed counting the turns as you go.

    To figure out your pushrod length you do the following. Lets assume it took 10-1/2 turns to close the pushrod down to its shortest length after you reached zero lash. Each turn is 0.050".

    Your length is then: 6.800" (fully closed length) + 10.5 X 0.050" (number of turns times the length change per turn) = pushrod length minus preload. So for this case:

    6.800 +10.5 X 0.050 = 7.325"

    This is the length you measured to zero lash without any lifter preload. Now lets say you want to have 0.075" lifter preload, you add that to the measured number and you end up with 7.400" pushrods. (NOTE: LS7 Lifters have 0.075 lifter preload)

    Now repeat for the exhaust valve to verify the length. If you have something like Yella Terra's, it is the same procedure but you must snug down the rocker pair rather than the single rocker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    You do not have to worry about being on the circle of the cam. Did you put the push rods back in the same lifter ? 22 ft. lbs. is correct.
    I tightened the rockers to 22ft-lbs. Now the car will not start. It sounds like it is really straining. I am going to loosen the rockers back up. At least it started and ran with them loose. So, any ideas what I am doing wrong?

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    I loosened the rockers and the car starts fine now. I managed to create a video of the engine running so you can hear the banging sound. Ignore the chattering rockers and listen for the louder banging noise. This sound was present before I even touched the lifters or rockers. When the car warms up, it changes to a much softer pinging sound.


    Last edited by Loser; 01-23-2013 at 02:51 PM.

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    I tightened up the rockers until they stopped rattling and made another video so the banging noise can be heard more clearly. The engine is warmed up a bit, so it is not as loud as it is when the engine is cold.


    Last edited by Loser; 01-23-2013 at 02:51 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Please do. I would like to hear it.
    I posted the video.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    A video will help some so please post when you can.
    I posted the video

  8. #28
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    Doesn't sound like a bad bearing to me. Almost sounds more like a bent push rod or lifters than piston slap.

    What is your oil pressure?

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    The lifters are new LS7 lifters. I checked the push rods and they are not bent. I have now replaced the push rods with 0.05" shorter rods (7.35" instead of 7.4"). I replaced the rods because I measured the length which showed that I needed 7.325" for 0.05" preload, but I read several posts that said they needed to use 7.35". Some suggested using up to 0.08" preload, so I thought 0.075" would be fine.

    Oil pressure was around 60 with the 7.4" push rods

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Doesn't sound like a bad bearing to me. Almost sounds more like a bent push rod or lifters than piston slap.


    What is your oil pressure?
    Last edited by Loser; 01-30-2013 at 06:17 PM.

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    Now I still get the same banging noise that I got with the 7.4" push rods. Other than that, it seems to run fine.
    Last edited by Loser; 01-30-2013 at 06:18 PM.

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    Here is what it sounds like all buttoned up with the new 7.35" push rods. You can still hear the knocking that I've been trying to resolve. Any ideas what to try next?


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    Do you have a cracked exhaust manifold/header, or possibly a blown exhaust gasket possibly? Sometimes they sound like a bad lifter ticking. As the car warms up the metal expands and seals the leak somewhat so it gets quieter.


    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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    I replaced the exhaust gaskets when I replaced the lifters. The sound seems to be coming from the block somewhere since it is about the same volume on both sides. I guess I could have two cracked exhaust manifolds.

  14. #34
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    I doubt you have two bad ones. Just thought I would throw it out there. It's happened to me before.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Loser View Post
    way to loose

    Quote Originally Posted by Loser View Post
    I have a few questions:

    The videos are done at idle, have you rev the rpms up to 2-2.5k ? If so does it increase the frequency of the noise (not the loudness)?


    I see you stated you installed LS7 lifters so I'm trying to confirm that you did.

    If you pulled the heads off have you had them check the valves for vacuum leaks? I had mine check when I pulled mine off and the #4 cylinder intake valve need to get lapped because it failed on the pressure check.

    When they were off did you have the heads milled? If so how much?

    Gaskets - reused or replaced? Using the stock thickness?

    The last two really matter when it comes to PTV clearances.



    The 3rd video sounds very close to mine but so much clearer.... I order 7.325 push rods that should be coming in today. If they do I'll be working on it tonight. I hope it fixes it.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 01-31-2013 at 07:41 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayrcr3 View Post
    Do you have a cracked exhaust manifold/header, or possibly a blown exhaust gasket possibly? Sometimes they sound like a bad lifter ticking. As the car warms up the metal expands and seals the leak somewhat so it gets quieter.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

    That noise is to loud for an exhaust leak, it's more metallic in sound.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    way to loose



    I have a few questions:

    The videos are done at idle, have you rev the rpms up to 2-2.5k ? If so does it increase the frequency of the noise (not the loudness)?


    I see you stated you installed LS7 lifters so I'm trying to confirm that you did.

    If you pulled the heads off have you had them check the valves for vacuum leaks? I had mine check when I pulled mine off and the #4 cylinder intake valve need to get lapped because it failed on the pressure check.

    When they were off did you have the heads milled? If so how much?

    Gaskets - reused or replaced? Using the stock thickness?

    The last two really matter when it comes to PTV clearances.



    The 3rd video sounds very close to mine but so much clearer.... I order 7.325 push rods that should be coming in today. If they do I'll be working on it tonight. I hope it fixes it.
    Moving forward, I am going to change over to the thread that I had originally started regarding the knocking sound. I will copy and respond to this in that thread. Loud Engine Knock at Cold

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