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too many miles for a cam?

This is a discussion on too many miles for a cam? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I was wanting to do a cam swap and have been buying all the supporting mods(in sig) to go with ...

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    Senior Member Wheeler99WS6's Avatar
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    too many miles for a cam?

    I was wanting to do a cam swap and have been buying all the supporting mods(in sig) to go with my cam, now I am wondering if my mileage is getting to high. So how many miles is too many in your personal opinion. I am currently at 80k.mi. Should I just save up for an iron block and stroker kit? Or should I go ahead with my plans of getting a Cam and stall. (had a stall for awhile and sold it! Now wondering if I should have kept it.)
    1999 T/A WS6 Black -------SOLD
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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am WS6

    I think you would be fine getting a cam and a stall converter. 80K miles on the motor is nothing, LS1's have been known to run for 200K, no problem. As long as the motor seems to be in good condition, I say go for it.

    As for the stall, you will want to get a heavy duty transmission cooler. Stall converters really build up the heat, and without a cooler, your trans may not last very long.

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    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheeler99WS6
    I was wanting to do a cam swap and have been buying all the supporting mods(in sig) to go with my cam, now I am wondering if my mileage is getting to high. So how many miles is too many in your personal opinion. I am currently at 80k.mi. Should I just save up for an iron block and stroker kit? Or should I go ahead with my plans of getting a Cam and stall. (had a stall for awhile and sold it! Now wondering if I should have kept it.)
    One of my buddies just pulled his Torquer 2 and installed another camshaft in it's place, and he's close to 150k miles. You'll be fine...

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    Senior Member Wheeler99WS6's Avatar
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    black, 05 Roush
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    I think you would be fine getting a cam and a stall converter. 80K miles on the motor is nothing, LS1's have been known to run for 200K, no problem. As long as the motor seems to be in good condition, I say go for it.

    As for the stall, you will want to get a heavy duty transmission cooler. Stall converters really build up the heat, and without a cooler, your trans may not last very long.
    I had a tranny cooler and temp guage also. I sat on them for about 4 months because I was waiting to get the cash for my cam package and oil pump etc. then I got to thinking maybe I should re-evaluate what I was thinking because 80k to me is high mileage, I didnt want to destroy my car. I was thinking well I will leave it as is and save up for an iron block swap.. Thanks for your advice I am definately going to continue with my plans now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Street Lethal View Post
    One of my buddies just pulled his Torquer 2 and installed another camshaft in it's place, and he's close to 150k miles. You'll be fine...
    That is some of the sweet words I needed to hear just for some reassurance.

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    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    2005 GTO M6 Black
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    I just installed mine and I'm at 146k.
    My Toy 00 Z28 1SC A4 - MS3 cam with supporting valvetrain, Milled LS6 heads, LS7 lifters, , ARP rod and mains, All free mods, pacesetters, True duals, moser 9 with 4.11's and Detroit Locker, Vig 3600 tuned, tubular SFC,adj PHR, LCA, adj TA, PHR reloc, LCA reloc. all with poly bushings, ZR1's and Nitto DR's (315).

    My other toy 05 GTO LS2 M6- Comp XR269HR cam, 918's, hardened pushrods, Dart Pro 1's, pacesetters, X-pipe, flowmaster 1 chambers, TSP oil pump, Tick master cylinder. Pedders RR bushings, end links, SB bushings, tie rods and strut mounts, total performance poly F&R bushings. Polk DVC 12", Infinity Kappa 6.5 component and 6x9's with corresponding amps.

    Her toy 77 F100-6.6/c6. All original (for now)

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Artic White
    2001 Chevy Camaro SS

    I was wondering this same question just never got around to asking it on here. I'm around 130K and wanted to do a cam, my buddy said I might have too many miles, but with what you guys are saying there still might be hope for me. Lol! I also talked to another guy who said a good idea is to check and machine any internals that have a lot of wear on them. What do you guys think about me doing this? And how much money would we be talking when rebuilding? And most importantly is that even needed?...

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    Member 2001hawk's Avatar
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    Black & Black
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    I would think it would be a good idea to freshen as much of the top end as you can when doing a cam change over 100K miles. Also, unless you plan on pulling the heads you wont be able to get the lifters. This may or may not be a big deal for any off you going cam-only, but I was at 65K when I was doing the heads and cam so I opted to put a set of lifters in to be on the safe side. I just couldn't see buying the downtime to tear into the motor only to have to do it all again at a later date. Little did I know Comp was going to bend me over by sending me TWO sets of lifters that wouldn't stay pumped up. After the second set I went with a set of lifters from Lunati. They were a little more expensive but they fixed the surging noises the engine was making at a constant 2,000 RPM.

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    18D Cock Diesel
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    I did my H/C swap at 146K...love it. No problems!!
    "I am the executioner. When a crime is committed and the exalted state does not take vengeance nor move to punish, then comes time for the executioner to declare himself. I have waited long enough. The criminals are hereby sentenced to death. By fire. By earth. By water."

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    You are still in the old school small block chevy train of thought. Wake up dude. It's not the 70's anymore -
    LS1 is high tech, one of the BEST motors ever developed. I have 104 000 on mine. I'm about to put it on the bottle.

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    UberTapping Friction Pimp Anthracis's Avatar
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    18D Cock Diesel
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    Hell Yeah!!

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    Slower Than a 3rd Gen juiced99ws6's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
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    my is at 110k and its a heads/cam car on a 150 shot

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    Senior Member camarojunky74's Avatar
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    white, white and pewter
    Rip99SSA4,74Z28M4,02SSM6

    135k all bolt ons stock a4, nitrous 4.10s gonna put a zo6 cam in next weekend, my buddy has a 98 z with 250k his dad drives cross country in it, its still faster than my friends 05 gt lol, with a cat back,

    LS1 is god, as far as motors go. i still get 25 mpg

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    Senior Member camarojunky74's Avatar
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    just change the oil frequently and the diff fluid these cars are great.

    my buddys 01 gt with 40k has already had 1 trans, and numerous check engine lights

  14. #14
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    You are still in the old school small block chevy train of thought. Wake up dude. It's not the 70's anymore -
    LS1 is high tech, one of the BEST motors ever developed. I have 104 000 on mine. I'm about to put it on the bottle.
    If they are sooooooooo great then why do so many have the gay ass piston slap? Because GM said FK it when it came to tolerances from what I read. I know-your gonna tell me because its an aluminum engine-if that was the case wouldnt every ls1 have piston slap?

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    Senior Member camarojunky74's Avatar
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    i dont wanna get in the middle of this one but i agree that the ls based engines are an amazing desighn and i stand behind gm on this one as well,

    im sure they didnt just say fk it, i dont know thou because i dont read tsb's or recalls as much as most, where could i find good info on this whole situation?

    i have heard of this piston slap before and went to the dealer when my buddy bought a bran new 02 z and his dad heard a knock from the motor, we took it to the dealer and the service manager said" its normal nothing i can do" i was all???????????????? huh knocking? normal wtf? he said yeagh its cause the engine is aluminum and the rods and caps are steel and sleeves are steel! its normal? we said okay and every once in awhile you can hear it under a cold start and sometime like 1 outta 50 times you can hear it on mine if you listen close!

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    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    GM did say FK it dude. In the past they would match cylinders to certain pistons to get the closest tolerances possible and with the LS1 they stopped doing this and something to do with a skirtless piston.But the bottom line is it is caused by the piston chattering in the cylinder because of too large a tolerance. This is what I read. I will try to find it and post the link.

    BTW-my car slaps like hell until it gets hot. I cant stand it. I am selling the car asap.
    Last edited by LETHALxLS1; 07-25-2007 at 03:56 PM.

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    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    BLACK
    Z/28 LS1

    Around 1998, GM switched from a "Select Build" method of manufacturing and/or assembling engines to a "Net Build" method, in order to save money on manufacturing and/or assembly. In the Select Build process, pistons and cylinders are matched for size and fit. GM's new "Net Build" method of manufacturing and/or assembly, in contrast, assumes all pistons will fit equally well in all cylinders and does not allow for variations in the size of engine cylinders or pistons. The pistons of slightly varying size (all within spec) are not individually matched with the cylinders of slightly varying size (all within spec).

    http://www.pistonslap.com/ Here it is.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BREAKxNECKxSPEED View Post
    GM did say FK it dude. In the past they would match cylinders to certain pistons to get the closest tolerances possible and with the LS1 they stopped doing this and something to do with a skirtless piston.But the bottom line is it is caused by the piston chattering in the cylinder because of too large a tolerance. This is what I read. I will try to find it and post the link.

    BTW-my car slaps like hell until it gets hot. I cant stand it. I am selling the car asap.
    Enough said.

    If you don't really understand the issue, don't bother trying to explain it and claim its a design flaw. Plenty of LS motors don't even have the issue, mine included. Its very difficult to match tolerances between metals, which explains why some motors have this issue on startup. It doesn't affect performance or reliability in any way.

    Pistonslap.com is the same bunch of assholes that bitched about Dexcool and claimed it was the root of all their problems. Even though they are the ones who left the coolant in for 150,000 miles and let it eat the gaskets. You can't talk sense into some people.

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    Senior Member camarojunky74's Avatar
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    wow, well, this is gonna get good! lol

    heres my 2 cents, i got 6 friends with ls1's all from nitrous to cams to blowers, and none of there cars but one has this symptom, and its an 02 z, hardly does it at all only under cold starts, i think mine does it every blue moon, and if you wanna sell your car cause of it i say hell yeagh, sell it too someone who will love it and drive the piss out of it just like every f body guy in here!
    all i have to say is if all my car did was make a "knocking noise" under cold start compared to other manufactures, cough cough ford spark plugs! then im happy

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    Slower Than a 3rd Gen juiced99ws6's Avatar
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    my car has never made a bit of piston slap noise either, it is kinda ironic for such a common problem so few people have it.. my roommates gto has always had a small amount of piston slap but ever since the headers, exhaust and intake you cant hear it all because it was that slight of a noise to begin with. also I mean, sucks to say it but there has got to be a downside to the engine somewhere. this engine was engineered better than any other pushrod motor ever built. with a good set of pushrods and some good valve springs these things will rev out past 8000 rpms all day long and they seem to just love the abuse. mine has been able to take more than I have been able to dish out to it so far and I am extremely happy with it. Yes I have broken some things but the engine has always been flawless. I over revved my engine when my transmission broke which backfired my nitrous through my intake and my engine caught fire off a 150 wet shot. I put out the fire, separated my wires and taped up my intake and the car drove home just fine and was good as new the nex day after replacing the intake tube and MAF sensor. how many cars can do that?

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