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09-09-2012, 07:12 AM #1
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
timing chain.....is there a trick to this
Is there some trick to getting timing chain on the cam/crank gear? I can get it on but either when the dots are lined up I can't get the bottom portion on or I get it on perfectly but the dots are off by a tooth! It's pissing me off I tried for 1.5hr last night and it kept falling off I screwed it prevented me from lining it up. It was hot so maybe the heat was getting to me.
1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
(Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/
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09-09-2012, 10:33 AM #2
Did you put the crank @ TDC via the damper mark BEFORE you started with the old sprocket dots aligned?
After setting the crank so that #1 cylinder is @ TDC put the new sprockets on without the chain..
Check timing mark alignment to be sure the crank/cam are still aligned , take the spokets off again..
Put the sprockets in the chain, turn them in your hands till the dots are aligned within the chain,
slide the whole thing on pushing on both sprockets at the same time.
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09-09-2012, 10:38 AM #3
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
Okay I didn't do tdc I guess that is my problem. I an not replacing the sprockets, just the chain and the pump, does this change anything? Should I do the pump before or after lining the dots up. Also my pump came with a bluish teal o-ring and a black one. It also came with a plug and a spring are those just rebuild parts?
I thought you could leave the crank gear on to do this.Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 09-09-2012 at 10:40 AM.
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09-09-2012, 10:45 AM #4
A trick would be (if the cam won't stay put) is take the key-way out of the crank.
Put your new chain and sprockets on and the secure the cam sprocket on the cam.
Rotate the cam sprocket till the marks are aligned (crank sprocket will turn freely without the key-way) and hold it there, (helps to have a buddy), if the crank key won't go in at this point,
you'll need to "wiggle" the crank so the key will drift in via the cranks king bolt.
DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE BACKWARDS..
If the difference is too great, rotate the crank in the dirrection it normally turns when the engine is running and try to get the key in again.Last edited by Smittro; 09-09-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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09-09-2012, 10:55 AM #5
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09-09-2012, 10:59 AM #6
About the sprockets.
Personally I always do chains and sprockets together as it's a wear item.
But you don't always have too. Although if they are of higher mileage I would.
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09-09-2012, 11:03 AM #7
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09-09-2012, 11:23 AM #8
The crank key is that that little piece of or shank of hardened metal (sometimes it's square or a half round piece of metal) sitting in the groove of the crank where the timing sprocket sits..
This is what makes the crank sprocket (timing sprocket) turn with the crank.
Without it the crank would'nt be able to turn the cam sprocket.
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09-09-2012, 11:26 AM #9
Example..:
Last edited by Smittro; 09-09-2012 at 11:28 AM.
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09-09-2012, 11:35 AM #10
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09-09-2012, 11:42 AM #11
Yep. May have to tap it a bit with a punch and a rubber/plastic mallet..
Last edited by Smittro; 09-09-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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09-09-2012, 11:48 AM #12
Place your punch @ the front of the key and CAREFULLY drift it towards the engine.
As you can see in the pic, the back side of the groove is sloped as the groove is ground into the crank rafter than milled..
As you drift the key it will rise out of it's groove.
No He-man shit here though go easy.
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09-09-2012, 11:53 AM #13
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09-09-2012, 12:01 PM #14
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09-10-2012, 08:09 PM #15
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Black/ Silver- 98 TA WS6/ 01 C5 Corvette
Okay another question. I think I got it lined up but it is hard to tell. The minimum you can be off by is one tooth right? To me if I am up close it looks slightly off but not by one tooth more like 1/8th of one or less. But if I stand back and look at it, it looks like it is lined up. Here is a picture which actually makes it look like it is off by more than it is if it is at all.
Am I good or do I need to line it up again?
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09-11-2012, 08:18 AM #16
Looks like you nailed it to me..
You don't want to be off a tooth in either dirrection.
If you are,,, it may not even run, if it even starts it won't run good, as you will be many degrees off retarded or advanced in timing depending on which dirrection from center you're off.
The 1/8 inch or less could be the old spockets showing their age.
You can use a strait edge to check the marks are in line with the center line of the crank & cam.
Your chain tensioner should take up the slack for any minor wear difference, but not for a whole tooth difference.
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09-11-2012, 08:21 AM #17
That is assuming your engine has a tensioner some have chain dampers instead.
Last edited by Smittro; 09-11-2012 at 08:24 AM.
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09-11-2012, 08:27 AM #18
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09-11-2012, 08:33 AM #19
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09-11-2012, 08:49 AM #20
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sebring silver- Y2K SS CAMARO
from what i can tell its lined up enough if its just a tiny bit off itll be just fine.
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