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T-Rex cam HELP

This is a discussion on T-Rex cam HELP within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I am looking to order the T-Rex cam here pretty soon... 242/248 .608/.612 110 lsa... now i need to know ...

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    T-Rex cam HELP

    I am looking to order the T-Rex cam here pretty soon... 242/248 .608/.612
    110 lsa...
    now i need to know what is NEEDED to do this.... im pretty positive i need a ported ls6 pump but i would like to know why i need it or even if or i could save money by not getting it... but i assume the ls2 timing chain is a must
    now for the odd stuff... it says not recomended with 1.8 rockers so i assume my stock rockers are fine? and on top of that what about springs or pushrods.. are they needed if so what kind
    Finally i will be getting this installed professionaly with full dynotune... running stock heads, and i have full intake/exhaust headers and all... m6 hoping for around 410 rwhp give or take

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    Trex is one of the biggest cam you can put in. not sure of the complications of that on LS1 motor. on the LS2 it will be better since more cubes. my 2 cents.

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    Your better off buying the T-Rex as a package. That way you'll get the correct springs and retainers and you'll save money. Instead of buying a piece at the time call Thunder Racing up and get a package price for all parts your gonna need. New head bolts, gaskets,oil pump, timimg chain. I've got some good reading for you to do. WWW.InstallUniversity.com is an excellent site with step by step instructions for Head and Cam installs and any other thing you to try to install yourself. I don't know about a ported oil pump but a new LS6 oil pump would be good investment if for nothing else peace of Mind!
    TSP 347 SB, TSP Stage 2.5 PRC LS6, TSP MS4, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E, Yank PT4000, 4.11s, Fast 90/90, FTRA Cold air intake+all the free mods, Dynatech Supermaxx Exaust System, DMH Cutouts, Hooker Catback/FTRA Tips. Tuned by RPM/Garner NC. 11.28@119

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    Wants to be Snowboarding FuhBreezeE's Avatar
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    That's a huge cam for a DD. Might want to look into something a bit more mild, and what the two above me said are also words of wisdom.

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    yep no more DD after trex that and heads... because of the very big cam lift your car will shake and sound very loud too.

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    if you are so worried about not wanting to race your car cause you owe to much on it, then there is really no point in slapping in one of the biggest cams for an LsX based car in your ride...

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    go with G5X2 or X3 if you want meaner,,, but G5X2 cam and some ok heads will nail you 40-50rwhp gain... but if I was you, student with little income (no pun intended) before going into more debt, I'd save the money and pay the car off first. like you've been doing man. my 2 cents.

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    Senior Member Street Lethal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BULLET_WS6
    hoping for around 410 rwhp give or take
    Go with a smaller custom grind. You could easily accomplish that horsepower level without going with the T-Rex, while staying totally streetable to boot....

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    Quote Originally Posted by djvaly View Post
    yep no more DD after trex that and heads... because of the very big cam lift your car will shake and sound very loud too.

    Cams dont increase the level of the sound of the exhaust......

    And i used to drive my TA with the TREX with PRC stage 2.5 heads on a TH400 with a 4000 stall and 4.11's out back......

    driveability is based on the proper tune, and the owner considers Daily Driveable.

    with that said. TREX is definately too big for a motor without heads, the exhaust ports on stock heads are way too restrictive and will probably not help in the range of power as you would expect. there are several smaller cams in the .580 range in lift that are definately more streetable and with the right tuning will put you just under or even over 400 RWHP on a dynojet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven02ta View Post
    Cams dont increase the level of the sound of the exhaust......

    And i used to drive my TA with the TREX with PRC stage 2.5 heads on a TH400 with a 4000 stall and 4.11's out back......

    driveability is based on the proper tune, and the owner considers Daily Driveable.

    with that said. TREX is definately too big for a motor without heads, the exhaust ports on stock heads are way too restrictive and will probably not help in the range of power as you would expect. there are several smaller cams in the .580 range in lift that are definately more streetable and with the right tuning will put you just under or even over 400 RWHP on a dynojet.
    TSP Torquer v2 would be just such cam...

    i also think he is forgetting that to run a T-Rex he will need gears (4.10's), stock 3.42 gears and a T-Rex would not be fun let alone drivable...

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    TR224 from Thunder
    228R from TSP.

    Enjoy.

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven02ta View Post
    Cams dont increase the level of the sound of the exhaust......

    And i used to drive my TA with the TREX with PRC stage 2.5 heads on a TH400 with a 4000 stall and 4.11's out back......

    driveability is based on the proper tune, and the owner considers Daily Driveable.

    with that said. TREX is definately too big for a motor without heads, the exhaust ports on stock heads are way too restrictive and will probably not help in the range of power as you would expect. there are several smaller cams in the .580 range in lift that are definately more streetable and with the right tuning will put you just under or even over 400 RWHP on a dynojet.
    wrong bud, the lift of the cam has a lot to do how nasty the sound gets...


    the duration and intensity of the exhaust and intake is directly tied in with the lift... the gases excaping through exhaust create different level of sound and volumes, raspiness etc. as the lift varies. pure physics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by djvaly View Post
    wrong bud, the lift of the cam has a lot to do how nasty the sound gets...
    Click for full size

    the duration and intensity of the exhaust and intake is directly tied in with the lift... the gases excaping through exhaust create different level of sound and volumes, raspiness etc. as the lift varies. pure physics.
    I see lots of ratios but none of them compared on a decible meter. Show me a drastic difference in change on a decible meter and ill give credit where it is due, so long as no other exhaust work has been done the actual sound level of the exhaust after a cam change the sound will remain the same. and obviously the car will lope and decibles will drop in those areas. I've tested this on several cars 3 C5's and 2 Fbodies (1 camaro, 1 Firebird) while working for a GM dealership to prove this very same point to the service manager (argument was that no matter what, every cam in the world will change the decible level at idle. he was proven wrong)

    I am also talking about at idle, based on YOUR quote earlier "because of the very big cam lift your car will shake and sound very loud too."

    A car is going to shake at IDLE with a cam (or at least just the motor if you have shitty motor mounts). Raspiness will definately be at different points with higher RPM. no doubt. Im basing my discussion with you off of idle not throughout the RPM band. we
    also have to take into account on how drastic of a cam change we are talking. The ones i tested with the decible meter did not stray too far in LSA from stock (around 144-116) but with about .588 lift or better
    Last edited by Raven02ta; 08-08-2007 at 12:42 PM.

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    thanks for all the replies guys... i went and talked to the people who do all the work on my car and they said that all i need is springs the cam, bolts, a few other miscellaneous... it will be 1700 including the parts, install, dynotune, etc...
    as for sound what yall are discussing is right/wrong a cam will change the sound of the car by A LOT but as for the decibel level, that will not really change...
    and yes i realize that is a radical cam but im someone who likes having an impractical car to show off

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    TR224 from Thunder
    228R from TSP.

    Enjoy.
    but that wont scare hondas near as much

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BULLET_WS6 View Post
    but that wont scare hondas near as much
    Yes they would.
    Just not quite as much lope.


    Besides...I would rather not scare them until they try something.
    You would have a much more solid powerband with one of those smaller cams.
    The TREX is a nasty cam that makes GREAT power. But you have to be able to use it. Can you hook from 5,000 RPM's??

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    if you are so worried about not wanting to race your car cause you owe to much on it, then there is really no point in slapping in one of the biggest cams for an LsX based car in your ride...
    lol i will race it if i get a cam.. i wouldnt waste that kinda effort and not race it... trust me.. just right now im not gonna risk a pretty much stock car when i allready know what its gonna run... yeah i know doesnt make sense but i never do

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    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven02ta View Post
    I see lots of ratios but none of them compared on a decible meter. Show me a drastic difference in change on a decible meter and ill give credit where it is due, so long as no other exhaust work has been done the actual sound level of the exhaust after a cam change the sound will remain the same. and obviously the car will lope and decibles will drop in those areas. I've tested this on several cars 3 C5's and 2 Fbodies (1 camaro, 1 Firebird) while working for a GM dealership to prove this very same point to the service manager (argument was that no matter what, every cam in the world will change the decible level at idle. he was proven wrong)

    I am also talking about at idle, based on YOUR quote earlier "because of the very big cam lift your car will shake and sound very loud too."

    A car is going to shake at IDLE with a cam (or at least just the motor if you have shitty motor mounts). Raspiness will definately be at different points with higher RPM. no doubt. Im basing my discussion with you off of idle not throughout the RPM band. we
    also have to take into account on how drastic of a cam change we are talking. The ones i tested with the decible meter did not stray too far in LSA from stock (around 144-116) but with about .588 lift or better
    I was talking RPM band not idle. of course at idle it is very little decible change, perhaps negligible.

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    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    Bullet, you are still going to need gears to run that big of a cam...

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Yes they would.
    Just not quite as much lope.


    Besides...I would rather not scare them until they try something.
    You would have a much more solid powerband with one of those smaller cams.
    The TREX is a nasty cam that makes GREAT power. But you have to be able to use it. Can you hook from 5,000 RPM's??
    im not really going for all speed right now.. sure speed is great, but i pick the trex because its so extreme it will make me feel cool... if i was trying to build the best car for money id go with like the 228 but i plan on later on after cars payed off to do rearend, heads, all that to be able to hande the power and use it, for now it will be just show, later on down the road i will get the "supporting" mods

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