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stroking kits 383, 393 or 395

This is a discussion on stroking kits 383, 393 or 395 within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Thanks for the info. I might pass on this one. I took my AC out so most of the weight ...

  1. #61
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I might pass on this one. I took my AC out so most of the weight gained will seem negligible. I also have 243 heads so my compression will be higher.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    According to the seller of the 200k+ LQ4:

    We don't know the history of this truck, but I doubt the engine has been rebuilt. The new LS based engines are going 300,000 to 400,000 miles without any major problems. This engine comes with our 30 day warrantee. Please let us know if you have any other questions.

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    Sounds like a good salesman.

  4. #64
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Sounds like a good salesman.
    That's what I thought lol. I was like okay sure....

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I might pass on this one. I took my AC out so most of the weight gained will seem negligible. I also have 243 heads so my compression will be higher.
    As we discussed earlier an lq4 with your 243's will be about the same ratio as an ls1. Lq9 puts the compression at 10.9:1.
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    well damn it I had 2 long lengthy pm's typed out.....let me see if I can remember everything.

    1st question I would ask is if it has had any rebuilds on it and if so how long ago.

    200k is a lot of miles on a block. If you get this, at the least you should: tear it down 100%, have it magnaflux and thoroughly cleaned. Basically you'll be doing a full rebuild, just so you know it's a solid motor. Throwing it in as is may mean having to tear it out and do a rebuild later so why not do it upfront.

    It will most likely need a hone, new set of rings and bearings for both cam and crank. Might even need a new crank too depends on how much wear it will have. If budgets tight (meaning not going all out for a 408 build) and you just are trying to get it running till you can do a 408 build you can (if needed) have the crank turn and get corrected bearings.
    I wouldnt hesitate to run the 200k engine IF I knew i was going to tear it down soon. If he's planning on using it for a while then I agree he would need to tear it down, and since it sucks to rebuild twice I'd pass on this block.
    Items of consideration:

    It being a LQ4 your compression ratio is around 9:4.1, if you want higher a piston change is needed, you can do like I am by using LS2 or LQ9 pistons. There are some issues with doing this. Wrist pins are different for LQ4 connecting rods vs LS2/LQ9's.
    lq4 with his 243's would put him right around 10.2:1 so he would be ok.

    Also for mine in addition to above I'll need to have the crank balance with the new pistons and rods, I may even need a line hone. I'm tossing around the idea of having a shop get it to short block form, got to see just how much it will cost since I will be supplying all the parts. I really want to do the build myself but somethings I may not be able to do because of tools, we'll see.


    I think you asked about what a good cam would be for a 6.0L. 228's are mild for them, you need to think bigger because of the cubes cams like MS3/4 and Vindicator cams have good responses with them. I've been reading Vengeance VRXT5 cams have been giving great HP gains for 6.0 liters and up. How much depends on what heads you combine them with. I truely believe now that with the 6.0 liter you have way more options then with a LS1.
    Vengeance makes good cams, I'd also check out EPS, and Tick as they both make great power and rive well. A guy just recently made 450/420 on a cam only ls2 gto with the tick SNS2 cam 227/235, which is a good sized cam for a 6.0 while still retaining stock driveability.

    This info was recently given to me.

    You will need to mock up your LS1 alternator bracket on the 6.0 to tap and drill a hole for the alternator bracket.
    People rarely go to the trouble of doing this, the alternator is just fine with the 2 bolts. Mine is currently held in this way and I've never had an issue. So unless you have access to a badass machine shop I wouldnt go to the trouble of drilling cast iron and tapping it.
    You must use your LS1 oil pan.

    And this block will weight about 80 pounds more than the aluminum block and will weigh your front end down. I suggest getting some bad ass shocks.
    Most people say they notice no difference in the way it handles with the iron block but I havent driven one so I couldnt give experience.
    Follow the LQ4 torque specifications. Some of those are slightly different than the LS1.

    Other than that, everything is exactly the same as the LS1, gaskets, and everything.

    Just make sure to get the right size head gaskets for the 4" bore lol.




    Some items you'll be able to sell: truck coils (I might be interested in them, I got to see how my 98 coils work with my 00' valve covers* I just ordered), valve covers, truck heads, even the exhaust manifolds (IIRC think turbo guys are looking for these). The intake and the accessories guys on truck forums are looking for them there.


    If I was the op I would keep the truck coils. they are the ls2/ls7 style which has a much better dwell time and stronger spark. All it takes to make them work with the ls1 harness it a set of $30 adapters from any ls shop. Valve covers are the same so it shouldnt matter there. And your 98 coils will work fine with 2000 valve covers however you will need the coil brakets to mount them on. As I'm sure you know the 98 used the coils bolts right to the cover. 99-02 uses the center bolt cover and uses a steel bracket to mount them so pick some up if you havent yet.




    Note * - the valve covers are for future heads not to be used with my current 853 heads

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    One thing to throw out there, I only drive my TA 1k a year, so if I couldn't do the stroking/rebuild pretty soon as in a couple months do you think I would be good until next year?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    It's not your DD, so yeah, time is at your leisure. I've seen guys take a year to do an engine build. (I'm not so patient so I know it would drive me nuts, kinda like now)

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    It's not your DD, so yeah, time is at your leisure. I've seen guys take a year to do an engine build. (I'm not so patient so I know it would drive me nuts, kinda like now)
    I meant more of the motor being good until I could do the 408, since it has 200k miles. I am starting to think I should buy it....my car has been down over a year .

  9. #69
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    That's what I'm planning on doing, use my current block with fresh rings and bearings + cam, till I can afford a 408 build.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Just wondering if you guys have considered an ly6 also? It is based on the same architecture as the lq4 6.0 iron... However it started being made in 07 and has vvt. You may be able to find one of these with lower mileage for a decent price. The things you would need to change would be the vvt stuff, which is easily done with a cam and timing set change. And then the crank has a 58x reluctor wheel on it which the fbodys are made for 24x. Since you have the engine apart already you could just have the 58x wheel pressed off and have a24x pressed on pretty cheap to do if you got the block for the right price

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Just wondering if you guys have considered an ly6 also? It is based on the same architecture as the lq4 6.0 iron... However it started being made in 07 and has vvt. You may be able to find one of these with lower mileage for a decent price. The things you would need to change would be the vvt stuff, which is easily done with a cam and timing set change. And then the crank has a 58x reluctor wheel on it which the fbodys are made for 24x. Since you have the engine apart already you could just have the 58x wheel pressed off and have a24x pressed on pretty cheap to do if you got the block for the right price
    I have looked and this is the only one I could find:
    http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=321053621706&index=5&nav=SEARCH&ni d=45106108959

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    So I cleaned my garage today in preparation for my engine removal. Tomorrow I am going to pick up an engine stand and hoist. Then I will start removing my engine. I am not sure what to do with my short block once removed. Will a junk yard buy it? I would need it gone ASAP because I don't have that much room in my garage for it and the lq4/9 I am going to get.

  13. #73
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Have you seen if a machine shop could do the extract or re-drill a new hole yet?

    If you're set on pulling it I would entertain checking into that option. It may be cheaper this route for you then getting a new motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Have you seen if a machine shop could do the extract or re-drill a new hole yet?

    If you're set on pulling it I would entertain checking into that option. It may be cheaper this route for you then getting a new motor.
    That is what I am going to do first.

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    Before I dive in and start removing my engine. In order to remove the basically shortblock from the top what needs to be removed? I figure the oil level sensor, cam sensor, motor mount bolts,and the bolts that attach the transmission to the engine need to be removed but is there anything else?

    I only have a head installed, water pump, crank pulley, alternator installed. My PS pump is disconnected from the engine but not the pump.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Before I dive in and start removing my engine. In order to remove the basically shortblock from the top what needs to be removed? I figure the oil level sensor, cam sensor, motor mount bolts,and the bolts that attach the transmission to the engine need to be removed but is there anything else?

    I only have a head installed, water pump, crank pulley, alternator installed. My PS pump is disconnected from the engine but not the pump.
    You should be good with that. As long as the fans are removed. If you arent removing the tranny with the engine you should just be able to lift the engine a hair forward and then up and out. The water pump is the only potential problem I would see but as said I think with the fans removed you would be ok. Good Luck!

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    Okay cool, another question. What bolt size would I need to put the engine on a stand? The LQ9/4 should require the same bolts right? This is what I have:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-engine-stand-69886.html

    And this is the hoist I am getting:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

    I am guessing I need a plate that bolts up to the block to lift up the motor, correct? I found one that TPIS sells.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 02-12-2013 at 12:19 PM.

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