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stroking kits 383, 393 or 395

This is a discussion on stroking kits 383, 393 or 395 within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by redbird555 yes this is correct. just remember though with ls2 pistons you need either ls2 rods or ...

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    yes this is correct. just remember though with ls2 pistons you need either ls2 rods or lq9 rods. reason being is the floating pin in those pistons requires a rod with a bushing in it which the lq4 does not have
    I'm ok, I got a full piston + connection rod set.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I found a lq4 shortblock

    GM 6 0 Chevy Engine Rebuildable Short Block 17532 | eBay

    It looks like it is in rough shape to me though. I hate living by DC btw, locally I either can't find a lq9 or lq4 or they want and arm and a leg over what they usually sell for. It's like they think they are rare.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    ya man that does look a little bit rough lol and I know what you're saying down here in south fl they think these things are made of gold also. the best deals i find are on craigslist. when you find a good one at a decent price you'll be glad you waited.... unless of course you just wanna rebuild it then by all means this looks like a good candidate haha

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I'd rather not but the lq4 in one of the previous links from craigslist might be the one I buy, I will have to switch the crank out though. That one looked to be in good shape to me. I have to wait until my tax refund anyways so maybe there will be better ones then or I can just buy a 408 shortblock from TSP. Question how do you get the engine out from underneath the car once you drop the whole thing? Also roughly what would a rebuild cost as far as the shortblock goes?
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
    421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I honestly could tell ya what the price for a rebuild is. I imagine over 1k if you had a shop do it and thats just with bearings no pistons or hard pieces. An here are some pics of my engine swap when I dropped an ls6 in my car. Basically you disconnect all the chassis wiring and dump the pcm on top of the engine, and disconnect the a/c then lift the rad support up with a cherry picker and wheel the whole engine assembly out. I like this way as theres much less chance of screwing up the wiring and its much easier to access everything once its all out.
    LS6 SWAP and build with pics

    Looking at this link makes me realize how good my BBK's really looked at 2 years old.... I just ordered a set of 1-7/8" ARH's today to remedy that issue though. If any of you need stinaless lt's I highly suggest looking into arh.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    My radiator and PCM are already off the car. I deleted my AC so I guess that makes it easier lol. Also my engine is basically just a shortblock with one head installed and is being held up by a floor jack at the moment, I was installing motor mounts but I stopped because of my current situation. Can you rent a cherry picker? I don't have one, would an engine hoist work, I don't have that but I can buy one near by. I currently have 1 3/4 obx's which are stainless but at some point I am going to upgrade to ARH or Kooks with bigger primaries.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 02-05-2013 at 01:43 PM.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Maybe missing something but I always assumed engine hoist and cherry picker were the same. But I imagine you could rent one if not harbor freight has the for 99 bucks lol. And ya my bbks served their purpose but after 4 years they're rusty the arhs are sweet. I went with them over kooks mainly for how well the hug the block and the hvmc. They're pretty but damn they hurt the wallet. But that's ok I'd rather spend the extra 200 over tsp to get a quality header and support American jobs
    Last edited by redbird555; 02-05-2013 at 02:03 PM.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Any other special tools besides the engine hoist and engine stand? I am going to start removing my engine. I am wondering since just have the short block if I should take it from the top since my mounts are out. I wouldn't think dropping it out the bottom would be safe. I guess I could reinstall the stock mounts....

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Ya if you already have it down that far I would probably just go out the top it would be pretty simple and I didn't need any special tools. Just ratchets metric sockets,beer and a good shower afterwards lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Ya if you already have it down that far I would probably just go out the top it would be pretty simple and I didn't need any special tools. Just ratchets metric sockets,beer and a good shower afterwards lol
    Cool I guess it is time to clean the garage for space and buy a engine hoist and engine stand.

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    http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/3533149022.html

    I found this one which is about 2hrs from me. It is basically a long block with an intake and some other stuff. I am going to see if he will just sell the block.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/3533149022.html

    I found this one which is about 2hrs from me. It is basically a long block with an intake and some other stuff. I am going to see if he will just sell the block.
    that looks like a great candidate. 1500 might be a little high for that setup but i suppose it does include the heads and intake. even if he doesnt wants to seperate it i'd try to go for it. 63k is nice lol and it looks clean 1500 may or may not be steep depending on where you are in the country so go with what youre comfortable with

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    I emailed him to see if he will sell just the short block. I live Northern Virginia but the block is down in Newport News. Hopefully I can get this one.

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    In case the one posted doesn't come through I found this one:



    http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=290858306225&index=13&nav=WATCHING &nid=41977080930

    What do you guys think? The cost is $1070 shipped to my door.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 02-07-2013 at 11:21 AM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You got my opinion in my pm's

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    You got my opinion in my pm's
    I didn't get a PM....

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    You got my opinion in my pm's
    What are your thoughts here?

    I personally i think the other one looks much better lol. 229K is a lot on a motor, but since your going to rebuild stroke it, for now it will probably be fine however I still like the on with 65k on it better. It seems like it runs good though it the other one doesnt work out keep it as a possibility. speaking of which have you had a chancee to see the one with 65k on it?

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    You got my opinion in my pm's
    What are your thoughts here?

    I personally i think the other one looks much better lol. 229K is a lot on a motor, but since your going to rebuild stroke it, for now it will probably be fine however I still like the on with 65k on it better. It seems like it runs good though it the other one doesnt work out keep it as a possibility. speaking of which have you had a chancee to see the one with 65k on it?
    Not yet the guy said he was out of town and hasn't responded to my email yet. I would prefer the 65k one but this would definitely serve its purpose until stroke time comes.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    well damn it I had 2 long lengthy pm's typed out.....let me see if I can remember everything.

    1st question I would ask is if it has had any rebuilds on it and if so how long ago.

    200k is a lot of miles on a block. If you get this, at the least you should: tear it down 100%, have it magnaflux and thoroughly cleaned. Basically you'll be doing a full rebuild, just so you know it's a solid motor. Throwing it in as is may mean having to tear it out and do a rebuild later so why not do it upfront.

    It will most likely need a hone, new set of rings and bearings for both cam and crank. Might even need a new crank too depends on how much wear it will have. If budgets tight (meaning not going all out for a 408 build) and you just are trying to get it running till you can do a 408 build you can (if needed) have the crank turn and get corrected bearings.

    Items of consideration:

    It being a LQ4 your compression ratio is around 9:4.1, if you want higher a piston change is needed, you can do like I am by using LS2 or LQ9 pistons. There are some issues with doing this. Wrist pins are different for LQ4 connecting rods vs LS2/LQ9's.

    Also for mine in addition to above I'll need to have the crank balance with the new pistons and rods, I may even need a line hone. I'm tossing around the idea of having a shop get it to short block form, got to see just how much it will cost since I will be supplying all the parts. I really want to do the build myself but somethings I may not be able to do because of tools, we'll see.


    I think you asked about what a good cam would be for a 6.0L. 228's are mild for them, you need to think bigger because of the cubes cams like MS3/4 and Vindicator cams have good responses with them. I've been reading Vengeance VRXT5 cams have been giving great HP gains for 6.0 liters and up. How much depends on what heads you combine them with. I truely believe now that with the 6.0 liter you have way more options then with a LS1.


    This info was recently given to me.

    You will need to mock up your LS1 alternator bracket on the 6.0 to tap and drill a hole for the alternator bracket.

    You must use your LS1 oil pan.

    And this block will weight about 80 pounds more than the aluminum block and will weigh your front end down. I suggest getting some bad ass shocks.

    Follow the LQ4 torque specifications. Some of those are slightly different than the LS1.

    Other than that, everything is exactly the same as the LS1, gaskets, and everything.






    Some items you'll be able to sell: truck coils (I might be interested in them, I got to see how my 98 coils work with my 00' valve covers* I just ordered), valve covers, truck heads, even the exhaust manifolds (IIRC think turbo guys are looking for these). The intake and the accessories guys on truck forums are looking for them there.








    Note * - the valve covers are for future heads not to be used with my current 853 heads
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 02-07-2013 at 12:55 PM.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    One more thing I want to add. To offset some of the weight from the LQ motor I plan on getting a UMI K member. It won't cancel all of the weight but will help with some of it.

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