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Stock ls1 daily driver camshaft options

This is a discussion on Stock ls1 daily driver camshaft options within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi I recently just bought a 1998 Chevy Camaro Z 28 and I was wondering what would be a good ...

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    Stock ls1 daily driver camshaft options

    Hi I recently just bought a 1998 Chevy Camaro Z 28 and I was wondering what would be a good cam size/ brand for a daily driver? It has a full exhaust/header, stock intake(I will upgrade that) and its tuned. I'm just looking to gain a little bit of power from a cam. I understand that I have to upgrade my valvetrain, is their anything else I would have to upgrade to this ?? Thanks

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    it just ends up being a slippery slope of mods......t-stat, oil pump, and timing chain since you'll be right there anyhow would be 3 obvious mods to do at the same time. You don't say if you're a stick or auto car but stall if you're an auto. Fuel pump makes a lot of sense but not completely necessary. The stock pump will fail....just a matter of time. As far as cams it's really subjective and depends on what you're willing to live with as far as it's street manners. I run a 228R and could totally drive it every day if I wanted too. Car really doesn't drive a ton different than stock. I could even go bigger to say a 233/239 and wish that's the cam I would've went with.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28 View Post
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    It's a 6speed, and I'm just looking for something that'll be reliable when it's in. Are their any "kits" from any company that sell a cam with valves/springs/retainers in a pack ? And I'm understanding that anything under 230 is a "small" cam ??? Thanks

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    Reliability will depend on the install, and more importantly, the tune. You'll need to re-tune the car after the install. Any camshaft can be reliable. As far as driveability, that's a different story.

    As Orion states, a mid-sized cam would be preferable for a daily driver. 228R used to be a common choice by many for daily drivers. I'd suggest something a little larger if you're doing cam only and the fact that you are a 6 speed helps some.

    We have a camshaft sticky on the site that tells all if you haven't seen it yet. As mentioned, an oil pump, hardened push rods, timing chain, and new springs would be required/recommended. It's a lot of cost for adding not a lot of power.

    Any thought as to doing heads too? Not that I suggest dumping money into a stock rear end on these cars, but gears really help with bigger camshafts.

    A custom grind is a popular choice too. Do you want low-end torque, high-end torque, mid-range, choppy, how much driveability are you willing to sacrifice for power, etc. These are all questions that need to be nailed down before a choice can be made.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Like I said it is a daily driver so I want to maintain drivability. I would like mid-range power;and I don't care about choppiness...would it be better to just do bolt ons then get a tune and later in the future if I want to make it faster proceed with a cam/heads/valves/tune ?

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    Personally, I would want to do heads/cam at once so you only have to pay for a tune once and tear into it once. Some tuners charge a lesser fee with a 2nd tune, but it's still a cost to consider. That's if you think you'll end up getting a set later on.

    Not many bolt-ons that are going to really add much power at this point that I can think of since you already have headers and exhaust. Those are the main 2, aside from upgrading your LS1 intake to an LS6 or FAST (which a lot of people question the cost vs. power factor of) and maybe a lid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Those are the main 2, aside from upgrading your LS1 intake to an LS6 or FAST (which a lot of people question the cost vs. power factor of) and maybe a lid.
    Regarding this^^

    I've had both, actually all 3.

    Unless you have serious both ons, aggressive cam and aftermarket heads I would strongly recommend you stay with the LS6 intake or if you can find one a fast 90.

    The FAST 102 better for bigger motors. Does it work on LS1's yes, but they love bigger cubes.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

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    Ok thanks guys

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    Give Martin at Tick performance a call. He has all sorts of stuff in stock and he does great custom grinds too. I've driven a couple of cars he's done and some have what many would think are too big for a daily but still drive effortlessly. Plus he can make sure you have everything needed to go along with it. Tick Performance is only like an hour from me so I've gotten to see all sorts of cars come out of there and they do some awesome work.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

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