Starting to get the itch, Opinions please...

[LS666]

Howdy all. All my LSx buddies are modding thier stuff so I'm kinda getting the itch myself. Right now I'm making 368 to the rear wheels with an M6 and 411/1 gears. Best of 12.7 at 112 traction limited.

Now, I've been looking around and the Patroit heads look pretty good. Currently I have a TR 220 cam. Would a set of Patriots be worth the money? Would the the big valve 2.08 intake heads work with my stock bore LS1? What would be the biggest cam I should go with the maintain street driveability? I'm thinking of doing the heads and cam at the same time to get it done. I know I'll need a tune afterwards and my wife drives it every now and then so it has to be fairly docile at normal speeds. She drives it the way it is now with no problems. I'd like to put at least 400 to the rear wheels to make it worth my trouble. What would you LSX guru's suggest to get to 400+ RWHP N/A?

[Hi-Po]

PRC 5.3 or 5.7 heads.

228r cam.

[LS666]

are the 5.7 heads the same as the LS6 heads they advertise on the site? What would be the advantage of the 5.3 heads over the LS6 heads? It looks like the LS 6 heads flow better with a 2.00 inch valve as opposed to the 5.3 and its 2.02s.

[Hi-Po]

LS6 are 5.7's. Yes the 5.7's will flow more because the runners are larger.

5.3's will net you a higher compression. LS6's can also be milled to net same compression.

Do a search on here, there is tons of info on the two different heads. Both have pro's and cons.

[c5z28]

5.3's and a 224-228 will get you low 400's to 420 easily. You can't go wrong with either head and most the combos are going to exceed 400rwhp w/ a mild setup.

[mark21742]

if you want to save alittle money to take the wifey out to dinner, look on ebay for the hr284 grind (cam copy). its 220/224 .570/.580 with your choice of 112,114, or 116lsa. $110 + $17shipping.
I'm running this cam on a 112lsa.
drives near stock, but nice power increase across the board that starts nice and low in the rpms....good torquey cam for being so mild

[side2000]

if you want to save alittle money to take the wifey out to dinner, look on ebay for the hr284 grind (cam copy). its 220/224 .570/.580 with your choice of 112,114, or 116lsa. $110 + $17shipping.
I'm running this cam on a 112lsa.
drives near stock, but nice power increase across the board that starts nice and low in the rpms....good torquey cam for being so mild

did you degree it? was it ground right? i've been weary about those, i get a cam straight from big namers time to time that are ground wrong.

[side2000]

-LS66666 : 2.08 valves are usually too big to be in stock location (when factory castings are used), on a stock bottom end. 1st: they are unnecessary to feed a 346, and 2ndly, the cylinder walls will shroud the flow, when they are put in stock location, negating their effectiveness.

[mark21742]

did you degree it? was it ground right? i've been weary about those, i get a cam straight from big namers time to time that are ground wrong.

yup we degreed it, it was right on.
I wanted to be sure too.
I talked to (via email) back and forth a few times.....the way he explained it - kind of like cutting a new key from a known good one

[c5z28]

yup we degreed it, it was right on.
I wanted to be sure too.
I talked to (via email) back and forth a few times.....the way he explained it - kind of like cutting a new key from a known good one

Mods and dyno numbers?

[mark21742]

Mods and dyno numbers?

I jusy copy/pasted my mods from another tread =
custom cold air/ram air, cone filter, ported TB, pcv delete, coolant bypass, ported and polished heads (stock 241 casting), 918 comp springs, 220/224 cam, pacesetter Lts, 3" bullet mufflers in to 3" flowmaster super 44's, 3" true duals, hptuners software, MAFless SD tune, 2,800 tci stall, all TM and shift delay deleted, wideband o2.
then for the body, full hand layed, one off, custom sheet metal wide body kit, with full custom paint job, 500+lbs weight reduction, summit buckets with 5 point harnesses, 4 12" subs, 1000 watt amp, sony cd, Driftz wheels 18x8 front 18x9.5 in the rear raptor 275/30/18
.....i think thats it.
no dyno yet.....just lots of street tuning. I will be hitting the dyno sometime this spring.

[0rion]

you'll get a ton of opinions so just take them as that.....opinions. My opinion is that you probably wouldn't see enough gains to justify swapping that cam to a 228r. I run the 228r on a 114 with prc 5.3 heads through a stalled a4. It's a good streetable setup. With you being an m6 you can go a little bigger than that and still be very streetable. I would personally probably go with a 233/239 or torquer 2 but like I said that's just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.

[LS666]

Lets try this: Who here has a 5.7 LS1 that's making 420ish RWHP without a power adder that is streetable?? What's your combo??? From what I read, A decent head swap will give me 20 or 30 HP. that would give me 390 to 400ish at the wheels. My heads are completely stock. If a cam is worth 20 more that puts me in the 410 to 420ish area if that much more power could be sqeezed out of a car that already has a TR220 in it. I suppose a bigger TB would be worth a few more. would rockers with a taller ratio help or would they be more trouble then their worth? Ive already got the under drive pulleys and a lid. I know the power levels I'm talking about are easy, I just don't want it to become a chore to drive. I know the LS7 is right around 500HP and is docile on the street so I suspect what I want to do is possible without making it a road pig. The torque curve I have now is flat so I don't really want to make it windey either. If the power band moves up then you just have to beat on it. Want to avoid that too. Tall order or totally do-able?

[mark21742]

Lets try this: Who here has a 5.7 LS1 that's making 420ish RWHP without a power adder that is streetable?? What's your combo??? From what I read, A decent head swap will give me 20 or 30 HP. that would give me 390 to 400ish at the wheels. My heads are completely stock. If a cam is worth 20 more that puts me in the 410 to 420ish area if that much more power could be sqeezed out of a car that already has a TR220 in it. I suppose a bigger TB would be worth a few more. would rockers with a taller ratio help or would they be more trouble then their worth? Ive already got the under drive pulleys and a lid. I know the power levels I'm talking about are easy, I just don't want it to become a chore to drive. I know the LS7 is right around 500HP and is docile on the street so I suspect what I want to do is possible without making it a road pig. The torque curve I have now is flat so I don't really want to make it windey either. Want to avoid that too. Tall order or totally do-able?

totally do-able.
hell, port and polish your stock heads, it took me about 5 hours to p&p mine. I was able to really get a lot off metal out of them where it counts (top of the runners, into the bowl, around the stem and past the seat) plus opened up the whole runner in general(241 casting). maybe $100 it bit and tips for the 90° diegrinder......that saves you enough money to buy yourself a fast 92/92 intake and tb.
if I was to do it again, I think I would go with a 228 instead and give my compression a little bump up by haveing the heads milled....i still might do this too
yhe only problem with the high ratio rockers is that you limit your cam selection if you want to go bigger later. I have friends that run them and love them.
hope to have some good dyno numbers for mine this spring!
just like Orion said, this was all just my opinion

[0rion]

Lets try this: Who here has a 5.7 LS1 that's making 420ish RWHP without a power adder that is streetable?? What's your combo??? From what I read, A decent head swap will give me 20 or 30 HP. that would give me 390 to 400ish at the wheels. My heads are completely stock. If a cam is worth 20 more that puts me in the 410 to 420ish area if that much more power could be sqeezed out of a car that already has a TR220 in it. I suppose a bigger TB would be worth a few more. would rockers with a taller ratio help or would they be more trouble then their worth? Ive already got the under drive pulleys and a lid. I know the power levels I'm talking about are easy, I just don't want it to become a chore to drive. I know the LS7 is right around 500HP and is docile on the street so I suspect what I want to do is possible without making it a road pig. The torque curve I have now is flat so I don't really want to make it windey either. If the power band moves up then you just have to beat on it. Want to avoid that too. Tall order or totally do-able?

can't compare an LS1 to an LS7 in a HP to street manners comparison. It has 81 more cubic inches. You do heads and a moderate cam and you'll be right where you want to be. The key is the tune. Find a reputable tuner that has experience and you'll be fine.

[side2000]

i did all the work to my heads (factory ls6 castings) myself, besides milling the decks, and i make over 400 wheel w/ 7000 rpm redline on mustang chassis dyno. defenition of "streetable" depends on person, i have a DD, but i still drive my car to work/class when weather is nice.