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Rod strength and arp bolts

This is a discussion on Rod strength and arp bolts within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; The rods are held together with bolts and not studs correct? If they are just bolts do you just remove ...

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    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    Rod strength and arp bolts

    The rods are held together with bolts and not studs correct? If they are just bolts do you just remove the oil pan and just remove and replace and torque. Because if they where studs you would have to press new on and resize the cap I beleave. And flycuting pistons how is this done. And how much, and can you do it yourself. Thanks for the help

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    bolts are used for the rod .most people upgrade to arp. there is a fly cutting tool that mounts in place of the valve.you remove the valve, install the cutting tool ,bolt on the head and use a stop on the tool shaft to control how deep you cut into the piston.

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    Y thank you sir. That's what I thought on the flycutting, so the rod bolts you just remove and replace and torque.

  4. #4
    Remove and replace the rod bolts one at a time to prevent the caps from shifting.

    And for the piston cutting, you will need a spare head with the valve seats removed. The cutting process even with proper lube will wear heavily on the guides so the head will be near worthless. Find yourself a junkyard 853 or 862 head.

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    how much power and rpms can stock rod bolts handle?i read some where to change rod bolts you should resize the big end of the rod because the different clamping pressure of stronger bolts can distort the big end out of round.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garygnu65 View Post
    how much power and rpms can stock rod bolts handle?i read some where to change rod bolts you should resize the big end of the rod because the different clamping pressure of stronger bolts can distort the big end out of round.
    i have herd anything over 400rwhp warrants new bolts

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Remove and replace the rod bolts one at a time to prevent the caps from shifting.

    And for the piston cutting, you will need a spare head with the valve seats removed. The cutting process even with proper lube will wear heavily on the guides so the head will be near worthless. Find yourself a junkyard 853 or 862 head.
    that what i thought thanks. and on the rod bolts wouldnt you loosen one bolt at a time then the other so one side wouldnt be torqued down

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    the rod bolts from the 6.0 truck motor will hold 550 horse and are cheaper than aftermarket ones and you dont have to cut anything

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    Quote Originally Posted by josh907 View Post
    the rod bolts from the 6.0 truck motor will hold 550 horse and are cheaper than aftermarket ones and you dont have to cut anything
    true but i am sure thats flywheel..so for those pushing good numbers..thats not going to work/pushing their luck..but good find ! for us mere mortals that might be a good budget substitute

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    So if I buy the arp bolts it's just remove and replace no rod resizeing or anything?and ALSo heard of katech bolts any info on those, there supposly lighter then arp bolts but hold just as good

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    Quote Originally Posted by zmg00camaross View Post
    So if I buy the arp bolts it's just remove and replace no rod resizeing or anything?and ALSo heard of katech bolts any info on those, there supposly lighter then arp bolts but hold just as good
    well katech makes/made the c6R and c5R engines..so i would trust their products

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    well katech makes/made the c6R and c5R engines..so i would trust their products
    Good point haha

  14. #14
    Get the ARP bolts. Forget about the Katech stuff, I don't care what you've read. You'll have an easier time getting your hands on the Street Warrior intake than Katechs rod bolts. Besides, the ARP bolts are cheaper and the ARP product in general has a FAAAR better reputation as a whole than Katech could ever hope for.

    There is no real power limit of the stock bolts. Once you start the spin the engine higher than 6300RPM, it would be a good idea. No need to resize the rods, there is extremely minimal distortion. The cracked cap design allows to the cap to stay properly located IF you do just one bolt at a time.

    I have ARP rod bolts and did not resize the rods. My engine sees over 7000RPM everytime I drive, and has been doing so for nearly 3 years now. And it does it with what many consider low oil pressure.

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    not a fan of katech huh ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Get the ARP bolts. Forget about the Katech stuff, I don't care what you've read. You'll have an easier time getting your hands on the Street Warrior intake than Katechs rod bolts. Besides, the ARP bolts are cheaper and the ARP product in general has a FAAAR better reputation as a whole than Katech could ever hope for.

    There is no real power limit of the stock bolts. Once you start the spin the engine higher than 6300RPM, it would be a good idea. No need to resize the rods, there is extremely minimal distortion. The cracked cap design allows to the cap to stay properly located IF you do just one bolt at a time.

    I have ARP rod bolts and did not resize the rods. My engine sees over 7000RPM everytime I drive, and has been doing so for nearly 3 years now. And it does it with what many consider low oil pressure.
    thanks for the response. I read something like the katech bolts where lighter then arp bolts

  17. #17
    Not lighter. Katech claims they weight the same as the stock bolts do. But they are impossible to get, they're expensive, and their customer service in my experience is very poor.

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    I refresh up my motor and i got a ls1 motor bult book for 20.00 , it was worth it , i put arp bolts , on my mains , rods and heads my car have a zo6 cam ,and my car shift at 7000 rpm rev lmiter at 7200 rpm But i have tititaium retatier and comp cam 918 springs ,i can burn rubber at 30mph easy , blow the tires off no problem, that y i can only race on slicks

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