rebuild or short block?

Ratdaddy07 · 07-23-2007, 08:06 AM

What would be wiser, cheaper? Rebuild my bottom end using all the best light weight parts ie. crank, rods, pistons and best bearings, rings etc. or just buying a bottom end with all the best in it then swapping? Also would like to keep the cam and heads I have so would going to maybe a 377 stroker be wise? Finally do I really need at that point an LSX intake and 90mm throttle body?
Currently have 228/228-.580/.580 114LSA cam, ported and polished MTI heads. Want as high compression as possible. Thanks.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-23-2007, 12:42 PM

Anybody? Suggestions or experiences would be appreciated.

**sroach20** · 07-24-2007, 12:30 PM

swap in one already done and sell your stock shortblock. that way you dont have to screw with ordering all of the parts, dealing with the machine shop, and finding out something you ordered wont fit because the clearances would be off.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-24-2007, 12:52 PM

Thanks for responding didn't think anyone would. Can I get just the bottom end? Or are you suggesting block internals and heads cam etc? I have nearly brand new heads and cam and would like to use them. Thanks for the time.

**sroach20** · 07-24-2007, 01:35 PM

a shortblock is the bottom half. the crank, pistons, and rods are balanced and torqued down.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-25-2007, 07:25 AM

That is what I thought but I search short block and half the time they have heads and cam I'm thinking O.K. have I been using the wrong terminology this whole time? Thanks. So I am thinking I need to call the guys I bought the heads from and be sure of what will fit clearance wise or is that not necessary.

**sroach20** · 07-25-2007, 07:40 AM

check the size of the valves in the heads. that with your pistons and cam will determine your clearances.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-25-2007, 08:04 AM

Thank you.

**juiced99ws6** · 07-25-2007, 08:28 AM

what are you trying to do with this car? if you are just trying to stay stock cubes and strengthen the lower half and are doing your own work then I would say you can save money by doing it all yourself but if you have to pay someone to assemble the shortblock for you then you are just better off buying a preassembled one.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-26-2007, 11:16 AM

Yeah paying someone. That is what I was starting to think. Found someone on the internet I am talking with now.

**LETHALxLS1** · 07-26-2007, 02:12 PM

MTI has all kinds of short blocks packages.

**EastTNZ28** · 07-26-2007, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by Ratdaddy07

Yeah paying someone. That is what I was starting to think. Found someone on the internet I am talking with now.

I would check with .texas-speed.com They have some of the best prices ive found and you can get some kind of warranty if you leave the motor Naturally Aspirated. These guys are really cool and no question is a dumb question to them. Just my opinion.

**LETHALxLS1** · 07-26-2007, 08:49 PM

I agree^ They have alot of good stuff.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-30-2007, 09:40 AM

Cool I'll check them out, Looked up MTI on the internet since the cam and heads or from them but the sight I didn't find too informative I think I will e-mail them.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-31-2007, 09:15 AM

Best prices and most help I found is from Rob Campbell enterprises. Anyone ever heard of them? Really nice guy very willing to answer all my questions and listen to exactly what I am trying to accomplish then make great suggestions. High compression 383 is what it came down to.

**mistermike** · 07-31-2007, 09:34 AM

The lowest price is rarely the best engine. No one has a magic wand to do better work for less money. Many of the "bargain" shortblocks and crate engines aren't squared up before machining, may not have a torque plate mounted before honing, and sometimes have clearances all over the place. Having the machine work and assembly done at the same place eliminates a lot of finger pointing if something breaks. You don't always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get. A few hundred more than the lowest bidder goes a long way towards getting you something really good.

**LETHALxLS1** · 07-31-2007, 10:31 AM

^ I agree. Dont go cheap when it comes to engines.

Ratdaddy07 · 07-31-2007, 12:11 PM

Just the parts, I still have to find someone to put it together, don't want to drive it to Virginia.

**Mentos Charge** · 07-31-2007, 01:43 PM

I also had the same question about rebuilding or buying a short block. Most machine shops I have spoken to want to look at the block to determine if it can be salvaged (cracks, etc). Why not have the engine taken out and get an estimate for both options?

Here is a great article about this topic.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

BTW: what is in virginia?

**mistermike** · 08-01-2007, 02:26 PM

When I had a spark plug break in my LS1, I priced out doing stroker forged rotating assembly vs. building an LQ9 from scratch. When it was decided to go whole hog heads and cam along with the blower, I would have needed a Callies bottom end girdle to handle the power. It costs almost as much as an LQ9 bare block, and iron blocks almost always make more power than equivalent aluminum blocks, due to less cylinder wall balooning. I sold my LS1 long block for $1300 and haven't looked back. I used Erik Koenig at HK Racing Engines in Houston. He did a meticulous job and wasn't obscenely higher than LPE and the other crate engine guys.