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rebuild the 346 or stroke it to 383 or 402?

This is a discussion on rebuild the 346 or stroke it to 383 or 402? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My thought has always been if you are going to spend the money to get forged internals you might as ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    My thought has always been if you are going to spend the money to get forged internals you might as well add the cost of the block in as well. The cost difference is not that much (depending on how much machine work costs, and compared to other things you could do), and you will get a modest boost in power.

  2. #22
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam02ss View Post
    Ditch the stock block and get yourself either an aluminum or iron block 402/408.
    Louis has the aluminum 402, I've got an iron 408. IMO if you're going to spray a decent sized shot- go with an iron block. I dunno...Louis and I may differe in opinions about this.
    Who is Louis?

    I have an iron 402. Originally built for boost. When I ordered it, it saved $300 to not bore it to 408. Plus, I liked the idea of a square motor.

  3. #23
    Senior Member cam02ss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Who is Louis?

    I have an iron 402. Originally built for boost. When I ordered it, it saved $300 to not bore it to 408. Plus, I liked the idea of a square motor.
    Ha yea my bad. For some reason I thought you had the aluminum block. Who is that?

  4. #24
    Junior Member JGARZA54's Avatar
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    hey txz28, Im actually going to use my ls1 block and stroke it to a 383 forged of course I have called so many shops around and pretty much depending on how much you are wanting to spend you are looking at $1200 take out and put back in (RR) your engine, $1000-$1500 to hone your block, $1500-$3600 on your stroker kit eagle, callies, lunati etc and depending on the shop $1000 - $2500 labor and also depending on the shop some will charge you min. to no labor if you have the heads, cam and anything else that you will be upgrading while you have everything apart.. You will save alot of money if you do it yourself...

  5. #25
    Member txz28's Avatar
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    that was my plan not only to save money but to learn more about it and to have a lil more pride you know anyone can pay and have a car built but not many can say they did everything but the machine work you know thanks for the numbers. I was talkin with my dad the other night about it and he reminded me that we have a family friend that builds motors for a living so I might be able to get the hook up on the machine work!!! I SURE HOPE SO lol i'm a poor ass white boy lol

  6. #26
    Just a slow Camaro KING Z28 HAWK's Avatar
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    GO BIG!

  7. #27
    Member txz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KING Z28 HAWK View Post
    GO BIG!
    OR GO HOME right lol

  8. #28
    Just a slow Camaro KING Z28 HAWK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by txz28 View Post
    OR GO HOME right lol
    No just go BIG lol

  9. #29
    Member txz28's Avatar
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    dirty aka white
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    well i am tryin to save up to buy a pair of lg9 blocks i dont want to storke the ls1 stock block out to a 427 bc how then everything gets but i think i just might storke out the lq9 block out to 427

  10. #30
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    The best all around deal that I have found on a rotating assembly is Compstar. Callies crank and rods, Mahle pistons (3.905 bore) w/rings, ARP 2000 rod bolts, balanced and ready for install for about $2400. This will more than likey be the route that I go. I have heard way too many bad things about Eagle cranks breaking.

  11. #31
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Yea eagle is not where you want to go.
    For damn sure you wouldnt want a scat crank either.

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