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06-05-2007, 03:22 PM #1
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possibly an extremely bad problem, hopefully nothing, help!
ok so my car lately has been driving funny the engine power is infrequent like the car will speed up and slow down while driving and at an idle the rpm needle will dance around from about 750 to 1500rpms it will also do this while in a medium acceleration in the rpms like 2000 to 3000 its making me nuts!
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06-06-2007, 08:44 AM #2
you didnt take off your cats right?!?...well describe your car.....don't expect people to know whats going on without having SOME knowledge to your car
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06-06-2007, 05:04 PM #3
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lets see my cars a 94 z28 the only real after market thing is some shortys headers and no i havent taken the cats off and i just figured out today running the ac while driving makes the problem alot worst any thing alse youll have to be more specific
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06-07-2007, 09:02 AM #4
still not enough info. MODS, is it an auto or manual.
Could be a number of things. Not my specialty, but when you pop the hood any funny noises, look around. who knows, maybe your belt is slipping (kinda doubt it) possibly a vacuum leak. Or the seal around your intake manifold, throttle body. My beater has a huge leak around the intake manifold and it does something similar to what you are describing.
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06-07-2007, 04:22 PM #5
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wel like i said above no mods except the pacesetter shortys headers its an auto it been doing it for a little awhile and i just had a whole new a/c thing put in and it makes it twice as bad when i turn the a/c on it had two blown head gaskets when we bought and those have been fixed for about 3 months
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06-07-2007, 04:25 PM #6
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
check your throttle positioning sensor. sounds like its look or going bad. also clean your maf ect. clean all the sensors
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06-10-2007, 07:19 PM #7
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^^ i agree check the maf out
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06-10-2007, 07:22 PM #8
TPS , MAF, or vacuum leak.
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06-10-2007, 07:44 PM #9
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Mystic Teal- 99 Trans Am & 01 CBR 929
if it is the same type of wiring as the LS1 you can pull your engine sensors fuse and see what happens. This will cause the car to run in a "limp home" mode and will run off the tune with no sensor input. If it fixes the problem then you just have to figure out which sensor it is. just find a freind with an LT1 and start swapping if that is the case. If you dont have a willing donor car then just buy the sensors one by one and as long as you clean them and return them like brand new you should get your money back if they are not needed.
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06-11-2007, 06:34 PM #10
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tps? and i checked the maf its clean and i check all the vaccums i could find and they all seemed to on ok
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06-12-2007, 07:32 AM #11
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. Does it make any noises? What are your gauges telling you. You might also try either buying or borrowing a code scanner that will display live engine data. I found myself using one from Auto Zone quite often so I finally broke down and bought one. With that and the service manual you can find what the sensors should read and compare what they actually read. Personally I am leaning towards a stopped up cat if you use the scanner you can see a difference between left and right. The drivers side is bank 1 and the passenger side is bank 2. The pre-cat sensor is sensor 1 and post-cat is sensor 2. So it will be displayed something like bank 1, sensor 2 but ya probably could've figured it out without my explanation. My sister had a 94 V-6 that felt a little low on power, RPM's moved as the cat was plugged sometimes and not at others. I think the new cat cost around 200 installed definately would not be a good trial and error mod. Also be aware as a 94 you are going to be using OBD-1 and will need the ALDL connector to tie into the PCM. Also some of my info might be a little off because most of my experience has been with my 2 T/A's which are both OBD-2. By the way it is also my experience that OBD-1 does not set off the CHECK ENGINE light (aka MIL) for near as much as OBD-2 because of the tolerances.
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06-13-2007, 11:46 AM #12
I agree with the tps maf and a getting it scanned. Do you get a SES all the time or only when it is acting up. If so does it flash or just stay on constantly? Does it act like its straving for gas, or air ie. sputter or just fall on its face and die. If it does that it could be something as simple as a fuel filter too. Not sure though
Last edited by dr_ws6_00; 06-13-2007 at 03:11 PM. Reason: not enough info
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06-13-2007, 03:22 PM #13
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ses?if thats the service engine light it comes and goes as it pleases no matter how the car is actingand it doesnt sputter but when i step on the gas its like theres somthing leeching the power i can just lay into it and it wont go any faster
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06-14-2007, 04:57 AM #14
SES= Service Engine Soon light. It is also called the MIL for Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Either way you spell out what the light indicates it isn't something you should ignore unless you are sure of the cause and even then it really isn't a good idea. Have you tried going down to the local auto parts store and using a scanner? That usually tells you with a pretty high degree of accuracy what part you need to change and then things should get better. I know auto zone used to scan the codes for free and if it is a sensor it will tell you which one and you can go from there. The only codes that aren't going to pinpoint it directly are the ones that say something like "intermittent/random misfire", but at least that helps some. You could also buy a scanner, since your car is a 94 it would have the OBD-1 PCM (On-Board Diagnostic version 1 Powertrain Control Module). The scanners can go for around 50 bucks or so at the low end and depending on what features you want you can pretty well spend a ton of money for the expensive shop-type scanners. The main thing I can't understand is you could save yourself a ton of headache and maybe the life of the motor itself by running the codes and it may cost you only the cost of the part that gets your car running right. Please help me understand if you are thinking that it is complicated it really isn't the scanner will tell you exactly what to do ( turn key to run position, but engine not running). The menus are pretty straight forward. Also can you hear any misfiring in the tailpipes. It would be like a soft puff sound.
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06-14-2007, 01:54 PM #15
sounds alot like a throttle positioning sensor. but i would go to auto zone and have it scanned. if i were a betting man it will throw two or three codes and one will be the tps. thats also the cheapest and easiest place to start. let us know how it turns out.
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06-14-2007, 07:17 PM #16
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well i cant do anything right now cuz the car was over heating a ton the other day so i took it in apparently the water pump took a dump on me which is wierd because it was just replaced last month but thats beside point, because i dont think the water pump would make it run funny like it is would it?
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06-15-2007, 06:44 AM #17
It probably isn't heat related. I think you could also leave a deposit and get your deposit back when you bring back the scanner.
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06-15-2007, 07:53 PM #18
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i took it to auto zone today and the guy couldnt get any codes out of it and i just got it back from the shop and the mechanic said that the problem is theres coolant in the distributor and it should work it self out but i dont think he knows what hes talking about
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06-16-2007, 06:19 AM #19
Was the SES light on when he tried to pull the codes? Also does the SES light reset everytime you cut the car off? Did he have the ALDL connector when he tried to connect it up? Did he say why he couldn't get anything?
On the second part does the car lose coolant? Coolant could cause an engine to run badly but I don't think that is your problem by it running badly at times and you haven't said anything about it misfiring.
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06-19-2007, 12:36 AM #20
I'm gonna cast a vote for the optispark. Specially if it's gotten wet.
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