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piston inside my intake

This is a discussion on piston inside my intake within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by lipsasaurus I think at least 60% of the piston is somewhere else. I'm about to pull the ...

  1. #21
    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    I think at least 60% of the piston is somewhere else. I'm about to pull the intake. Maybe I can just cut the front 2 off and run a 3800 v6
    You would have a 260 cubic-inch V6 instead of 231 cubes
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    so i started the tear down, not a lot because i am going to drop the engine. pulled the intake it was not broken, pulled the valley cover, no holes. no broken springs, no bent pushrods. it seems not to be the entire piston just chunks a bit larger then a quarter. so it seems most or all the damage is under the heads. and to the wall

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    pulled one head. no time for other. found debris some piston ring but no holes. i am guessing lucky #7

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    so pulled the other. #6 is no more. its a hole, the pin did not break nor did the rod. the piston literally blew up, the rod and pin are still in tact. now it seems the crank is shot, the wall has 2 gouges, i dont think it can be saved, they are just in the sleeve though, all the lifers seem unaffected so i am hoping the cam is the same way. the valves are broken on #6 and some of the other has some valve kissing, dang those adjustable rockers.

    so where do i go from here? new ls1 block? ls6 block ls3 ls2 lq4 lq9 or part the car out take my losses and try to make some cash back?

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    so yea. its bad.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    so pulled the other. #6 is no more. its a hole, the pin did not break nor did the rod. the piston literally blew up, the rod and pin are still in tact. now it seems the crank is shot, the wall has 2 gouges, i dont think it can be saved, they are just in the sleeve though, all the lifers seem unaffected so i am hoping the cam is the same way. the valves are broken on #6 and some of the other has some valve kissing, dang those adjustable rockers.

    so where do i go from here? new ls1 block? ls6 block ls3 ls2 lq4 lq9 or part the car out take my losses and try to make some cash back?

    Budget?


    Me I favor a LQ4/9 iron block. affordable & can be built up later on if budget increases. 408 builds with right h/c/i can get 500's NA, throw on FI or N2O .... much more options over aluminum blocks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Budget?


    Me I favor a LQ4/9 iron block. affordable & can be built up later on if budget increases. 408 builds with right h/c/i can get 500's NA, throw on FI or N2O .... much more options over aluminum blocks.


    basically i spent my cash on the valvetrain upgrades. i feel the cam is toast. i have no idea where to go from here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Damn.......I'll quit bitching about my carnage....
    i think i bought an expensive coffee table :/

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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    basically i spent my cash on the valvetrain upgrades. i feel the cam is toast. i have no idea where to go from here.
    Park it for awhile. There is no shame in letting the car sit till you can afford to build it again.

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    except thats my transportation

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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    except thats my transportation
    5.3L swap or get a cheap DD.

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    Short block it and and pick up some stock or used heads.

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    someone should post like an SOS to the forum to sell me parts if people have them laying around but really though, fairly sure the crank will need replaced as well, it took some damage, cant tell too much i dont have an engine dolly or i would have dropped it by now. I am going on vacation next week so im going to look for some parts down in SC.

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    think it can be resleeved or is it gone? has 2 gashes from where i got it started 10 mins after it happened. then instantly turned it off. But they are not horribly deep

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    the cost of resleeving it will exceed locating a short block 5.3, LS1 or LQ4/9

    Any of these will work with you're intake, heads I still have my 806's (still has all the stuff valves, rockers, etc), not the greatest heads but in a bind

    I also have some pistons that are salvageable but the rods will need replace or seriously checked out. The crank I still have it but I need to have a shop look at it and tell me if it was damage from the rod bearings. It may be able to polish up. Also all those blocks share same crank (LQ4 99< )

    Just giving you some options, it's just occupying space in the garage.

    Also those blocks I mention above, all in stock form till you can upgrade later on.


    Like Jeremy said, no shame in parking. Mines been down going on 7 months now At the time I had 3 cars, one was down, then the TA, been down to one car. Fixed the Jeep, then sold a month later. So still back to one. Now I have a Blazer (sons car) sitting in drive way waiting on parts. It never ends...


    Jodi I lost count, Will not sure either, know it's been a little longer then mine, some others here to.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 06-28-2013 at 04:35 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lipsasaurus View Post
    think it can be resleeved or is it gone? has 2 gashes from where i got it started 10 mins after it happened. then instantly turned it off. But they are not horribly deep
    I have an entire rotating assembly for a ls1 if interested once my block is removed. Also another option is a truck 4.8/5.3 block bored out to a 5.7. Those blocks are cheap and can be had for $100.
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    If you can't see immediate damage to your crank, I would find it hard to believe if its damaged. Pull the crank and get it checked at a machine shop.

    Like they said, no shame in parking the car for awhile. I had to when it was my only car. I didn't get a daily driver until a year and three months later

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    i purchased this book. how to build high performance ls1/ls6 and it seems that i need to remove the wiring harness with the motor. i see no reason too, is it required because i have everything disconnected i believe and it would be extra work. if i end up having to buy a new crank i will look at the tsp forged, i have no funds but i do have a card, i just dont know how good of an idea it would be to put stock parts in when they failed once. really looking at that lq4 though. difference between lq4/lq9 ? are they as efficient? i was getting 20mpg in town on that setup.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    LQ4/9 have same block, you want to look for a 99-04 yrs. Reason is it is a 24 recluctor wheel that works with your pcm. If you get a later yr you can swap the one from the LS1 crank over. Difference between the 2 are piston design. The 4 has dish pistons that give it about a 9.4 compression while the 9 has flat top pistons (like the LS2) and has about a 10.5 compression. These are not exact measurements, just an average estimate (A lot of variables ss items come into play when getting exact compression ratios).

    Both are a 364 ci iron block. If you were to swap over a LS6 intake HP comparison you would have about 10-15 difference and about the same in torque. The biggest advantage to having an iron block over aluminum is modding. Where you can bore .030 over on an iron block and have no issues, it is different with aluminum blocks. IIRC you can only bore 0.005 from the sleeves. Stroking options - you have 370, 402 or 408


    370 - you bore the cylinder to 0.030 over, use 4.030 pistons and use stock length con rods & crank (Better then stock config)

    402 - cylinder bore & pistons remains the same, however the crank and con rods are (IIRC) 4" stroke (think it's like a 383 for a LS1) (Better)

    408 - cylinder bore is 0.030", pistons are 4.030", crank and con rods have 4" stroke. (BEST)

    One more advantage of a 6 liter (LS2, LQ4/9) - you can use LS3 style heads rectangular port vs cathedral LS1/6 heads. The former heads have more flow and volume over the later. = more HP/TQ


    Lastly - LQ4/9's are easy to find vs LS1/2/6 blocks and are much less expensive.

    Only negative I've seen is the added weight difference between iron vs aluminum. About 80 lbs IIRC
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 06-28-2013 at 12:57 PM.

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