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No food fight, but cam and converter question

This is a discussion on No food fight, but cam and converter question within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Guys, I know there are VERY strong recommendations from everyone on both subjects. The car is a 98 TA A4 ...

  1. #1
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    No food fight, but cam and converter question

    Guys,

    I know there are VERY strong recommendations from everyone on both subjects. The car is a 98 TA A4 convertible that I'm looking to add LTs, cam, and a stall to. Yes the car will be tuned when the parts are installed. I'm just looking for something that will be fun, but streetable. Not necessarily a DD but something that can be driven reliably. Got my ass handed to me by a kid in an EVO the other day and decided to dip into the bank account. Actually this is the wife's car so she doesn't really know what's coming yet...so, basically nothing radical with great power everywhere and good manners.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    If you're going to keep stock compression and heads, a cam in the low-mid 230 duration range will work very well. Something along the lines of Futrals F13. Couple that with a Yank PT4000 converter and some good drag radials and you won't have problems with the AWD stuff.

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    Cool, thanks for the advice. Any idea on RWHP with this combo? I'm planning on adding an LS-6 intake as well.

    I'm also thinking about keeping the stock muffler for a little stealth...good idea or no?

  4. #4
    The Red Reaper 98Z28importslayer's Avatar
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    1998 Camaro Z28 T-Top A4

    kick the stock exhaust set up, its alot more restrictive then aftermarket exhausts, go with a magnaflow setup, its probably the most popular among ls1 owners, it will give you quite a bit more hp sense you have alot of increased flow, and will give you a great sounding car as well. It will defiantly make any car think twice about wanting to challenge you. You have to remember sense yours is a convertable its alot heavier then other TAs and as soon as you take that top down theres alot of drag which will slow you down quite a bit.

  5. #5
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    below cam,
    http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=168&catid=44
    long tube headers of your choice and a 3500 rpm stall converter.
    get below whole cam kit,
    http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=175&catid=49
    also its good to get a ported high flow oil pump and ls2 timing chain when doing a cam swap.
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

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    NHRA,

    Thanks for all the info. With the car being a little heavier than the average, should I do any fiddling with the stall speed up or down? Also are most guys running off the shelf tunes from someone or are most custom?

  7. #7
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derck_mullin View Post
    NHRA,

    Thanks for all the info. With the car being a little heavier than the average, should I do any fiddling with the stall speed up or down? Also are most guys running off the shelf tunes from someone or are most custom?
    for teh v2 cam you can use a stall up to 4k.
    custom dyno tune is the best

  8. #8
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    Not really as much could I as should I? Heavier car is the main reason.

    Holy crap, I youtubed the thing...that is a freakin nasty sounding cam! Daddy like!!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by derck_mullin View Post
    Not really as much could I as should I? Heavier car is the main reason.

    Holy crap, I youtubed the thing...that is a freakin nasty sounding cam! Daddy like!!
    TSP does have some good cams. Unfortunately the Torquer series is anything but what the name implies. The F13 will sound the same and make more power and LOTS more midrange torque, even though it is slightly smaller.

  10. #10
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    Interesting...I only want to do this once so...

    Is there anywhere I can see a comparison between the two? Have the two been dyno'd on the same car back to back for instance?

    Thanks

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