New WS6

[boose00]

Hey guys just picked up a 2001 ws6 and its time to start modding (big time!).
I want to run mid 11's. Ive been looking up mods and reading here a little but i would like some real world opinions. I want to do a good heads and cam package.
I found thunder racing cam and head package for about $2700
I also found rampid motorsports level 2 package for the same price but they say a core is required for return? so they want my motor?http://www.rapidmotorsports.com/mode...=1&intYearId=3
1. you guys suggest anything else?

2. as far as headers does it matter what kind? ive always thought of them as just pipes. any brand really out perform any other?
3. same questions for cat back

4. any need for an intake manifold or is the stock one good enough?

5. rear end? suspension?

6. wil the stock trans handle this?

a lid is a must so im gettin that. most of you are saying brand doesnt matter, i just gotta seal it. gettin slicks to put the power to the ground. bigger throttle body is another must. dont really want NOS.

PLEASE NOTE... i realize im talking out my ass here i dont know very much about these cars or what i have posted will get me mid elevens. I could be totally on the wrong track please be gentle and dont be a jerk about it just help me. i would love to hear some input from people already running mid elevens and what they had to do but im open to everyone.
thanks post #1

[sunsetorangess]

First off, Thunderracing is a good company with staff that knows what there talking about.
As far as a " core charge" the want your stock heads.

As far as headers, they are pretty much the same, "ceramic coated" keeps the heat out of the engine bay and looks better than say Painted.
Pacesetters are popular and have few issues. Also keep in mind if your going lt's then think about a full exhaust, ory and catback. Stay away from flowmaster for a catback, they dont breath very well on our cars. Check out ls1sounds.com to get an idea of the sounds of different set ups.

Your car came with the ls6 intake so leave it alone, they flow very well.

Suspension, Look into some Sub frame connectors and control arms, upper and lower.

Our stock 10 bolts are pretty weak, on a m6 car they can break on stock hp. Its like a time bomb. A 12 bolt will do. Is your car and auto or 6 spd?

Be careful when you decide to run slicks, They arent like a drag radial or just street tire. Its like two different worlds when your going down the track. Also keep in miind on your launch you will probly bog down a bit and if you have enough traction you will destroy your rear end. I would look into some Mickey thompson Dr's.

welcome to the site and search around and you will find all the info you need to build your car. Whats your budget looking like?
J

[iamnitrox]

Another option for heads/cam is through Texas-speed.com. They have a heads/cam package that you can order with pushrods, oil pump, and gaskets. It comes with double springs, Titanium retainers, oversized valves and some serious ports. It would go well with a decent sized cam. I would go with a 228/230 112 from Texas speed. Plus side: All this comes for just over 2,000 bucks! Its a good deal for sure.

To get 11.5 seconds, you need a good Torque converter as well, and those don't come cheap. Get a Yank or Vigilante to keep it streetable and keep it under 3200 stall or else your computer will spit codes saying your tranny is slipping.

Go with a FAST 90/90 setup (If you dont know, just do a search) and KOOKS stepped headers. (1 3/4" to 1 /78" These are a common denominator in ALL serious LS1 cars: KOOKS and FAST 90/90. Yeah, youll pay, but If you wanna run 11's, These will help out. Plus, the kooks are stainless and coated I think.

As far as suspension goes, Thunder racing sells a BMR rear suspension package for around 620 bucks that includes LCA's, Panhard, Torque arm, and LCA relocation brackets. youll need to get the subframes as well, go with BMR or Spohn. thier prices are TONS better than SLP by far. Springs and shocks are not really gonna be that important for the 11.5 second range, so leave them until youre ready for 10's. Get a strut tower brace and maybe the tranny cross brace if you have the change. Spohn or BMR are great companies so dont be afraid to mix and match to get the best price for your budget.

I agree with the previous guy, Get some Mickey Thomsons for the back. As far as the rearend goes, It can be built to handle over 500 RWHP if you set it up right. Try using Moser 28-spline replacement c-clip axles, 3.73 gears, trick flow diff cover (braced), and a cheap locker.(dont use a spool) To run 11.5 you will also most likely have to run a driveshaft loop to race, so count that in the cost. Your racetrack might require you to have a roll cage as well. Either way, research is best.

The trick with these cars is to work you way from back to front, adding power last. The axle is gonna be your downfall, The tranny is fine (save for the TC) and the motor is 12-capable with gears and Drag Radials. Go tires/rearend first, then suspension, then Torque converter/motor last. It keeps everything in check so you dont have a car with a hot cam and the stock 2.73 or 3.13 gears and TC. Your gas mileage will be hurting and your car may not be prepared for that abuse. Just something to think about.

hope this was insightful.

[2001hawk]

As far as Teaxs-speed and Thunder Racing go I have ordered parts for my cars from both and both companies got the parts to me as soon as they could be delivered. Also both were helpful and got the part I ordered without any issues, so I recommend either.

As far as the headers they are a lot of options out there unless you have access to a lift I would stay FAR away from the SLP's. Dont get me wrong I put the SLP's on my Firehawk without a lift so I know it can be done, but it was a little more fun than I wanted. Also if your car is lowered ANY or you have a lot of speed bumps to drive over you will scrape or flatten a primary tube.

The intake manifold is a contested item for me. I bought my 90/90 setup from Texas-speed. They were running a sale for around 1100 bucks for the 90mm intake and PTM throttle body. I very much like mine. There is also the argument that it is not needed. I know of a WS-6 with a H/C 408 making well over 500 RWHP on motor alone and still using the LS6 manifold.

Whatever you decide on your options is up to you but if it was me I would do everthing at once and then go and get a dyno tune. Remember to count that in the cost. Also I don't know if they have emissions tests where you live but if they do the 228 cam may be a little much unless the tune is spot on.

[{FzS}BlacKMagicK]

I agree with Iamnitrox, the first inclination is to do up the motor, "more power Scotty", line a thinkin, but Scotty always reminded the Capt. if she was pushed too hard, she'd blow.
I'd get a strong rear first. My logic is if the drivetain is strong, you can do whatever the hell you want to the motor and no worries.

If not, make sure you have a ride home from the track waitin, you'll need it.