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New cam.....

This is a discussion on New cam..... within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; he needs a driver mod. The previous owner supposedly ran an 11.2 with it at 121 or something like that ...

  1. #21
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    he needs a driver mod. The previous owner supposedly ran an 11.2 with it at 121 or something like that although I've never seen a slip. My buddies 60's were terrible. He got his line lock working and is on Nitto's now so I fully expect him to put it in the 11's this year.

  2. #22
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedVertTA View Post
    +1

    What I don't understand is why they told you to run the reverse split cam, you have so much more on the intake side than the exhaust side. It would make more sense to me to have the two be closer to one another.
    It's really dictated by cylinder head flow (more particular to intake/exhaust flow ratio percentage) and intake design.

    The engine shop I worked in explained it to me but it just makes my head spin so I leave the custom ground camshaft stuff to the cam manufactures and cylinder head guru's.

    In a nutshell if you have a head that has excellent intake/exhaust ratio of around 80-85% then most engine builders tell you the engine would make best power with a straight pattern camshaft (same intake and exhaust)
    Depending on the heads in question would cause an engine builder to favor one side or the other.

    In this case I would assume that Thunder Racing obvously thinks that stock heads don't need much exhaust help. I guess it works well on the LS engines because this style of camshaft is pretty popular.

  3. #23
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    he needs a driver mod. The previous owner supposedly ran an 11.2 with it at 121 or something like that although I've never seen a slip. My buddies 60's were terrible. He got his line lock working and is on Nitto's now so I fully expect him to put it in the 11's this year.
    You better get busy on that bird then

  4. #24
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    I like that cam but I would get something a hair bigger, comp custom grind has done very good for me…it is a 230/230 xfi/x-er .612/.592 on a 111+2…cam only with a 3250-3275 raceweight, -400DA, full bolt ons, stock 10 bolt and 3.23 gears…went a 10.81 at 122mph with a 1.386 60ft…so the cam makes great power and tq…dynojet locked converter with cutout open were 422rwhp and 394rwtq…

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    Question Cranks sputter but no start

    spark is good, fuel press good but is sputters without starting.

    It seems as if its off timing.

    I installed a Lunati cam as I would a OEM cam. Would that be correct?

  6. #26
    Member TA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedVertTA View Post
    +1

    What I don't understand is why they told you to run the reverse split cam, you have so much more on the intake side than the exhaust side. It would make more sense to me to have the two be closer to one another.
    The cam i have in my 1965 (other brand of car haha) has .014" more lift on the exhaust side. I dont know why you would want more on the intake side than exhaust. Youre gonna be able suck in alot more air, but cant push any of it out. Also, why would you buy Pacesetter Headers?? If you have the money for headers buy something decent: SLP, Hooker, QTP... Something that will actually fit and give you performance.

  7. #27
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T/A98 View Post
    The cam i have in my 1965 (other brand of car haha) has .014" more lift on the exhaust side. I dont know why you would want more on the intake side than exhaust.
    Read post #22. It will give you an overview to this method of camshaft grinding. More lift and/or duration on the exhaust side does not always mean more power.

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T/A98 View Post
    Also, why would you buy Pacesetter Headers?? If you have the money for headers buy something decent: SLP, Hooker, QTP... Something that will actually fit and give you performance.
    Nothing wrong with pacesetter at all for mild performance engines. They have fit fine on both of my 4th gens. My only complaint would be the Y-pipe itself but the headers do the job.

    For other headers to make more power you would have to get fancy with tuned length primary tubes, possibly going to 1 7/8 diameter, longer collectors and even going with stepped headers,,,,all of which work well if you don't mind spending $1,500 or more on a set of headers, escpecially if custom made.
    In which case I would do on an all out performance application, but why bother on a mild 11 second street car??? Any other off the shelf 1 3/4 header isn't going to do much better (if at all) than a pacesetter for something like that.
    It's all in what you are after.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 04-02-2009 at 10:05 AM.

  9. #29
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrs1313 View Post
    I like that cam but I would get something a hair bigger, comp custom grind has done very good for me…it is a 230/230 xfi/x-er .612/.592 on a 111+2…cam only with a 3250-3275 raceweight, -400DA, full bolt ons, stock 10 bolt and 3.23 gears…went a 10.81 at 122mph with a 1.386 60ft…so the cam makes great power and tq…dynojet locked converter with cutout open were 422rwhp and 394rwtq…
    Man I love that degative DA reading,,,wish I could get some of that.

  10. #30
    Still The Junior Member RedVertTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojomanx View Post
    spark is good, fuel press good but is sputters without starting.

    It seems as if its off timing.

    I installed a Lunati cam as I would a OEM cam. Would that be correct?
    I think you might be on the wrong thread buddy. If you need help, open a new thread in the general help section and post your question.

  11. #31
    Still The Junior Member RedVertTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    It's really dictated by cylinder head flow (more particular to intake/exhaust flow ratio percentage) and intake design.

    The engine shop I worked in explained it to me but it just makes my head spin so I leave the custom ground camshaft stuff to the cam manufactures and cylinder head guru's.

    In a nutshell if you have a head that has excellent intake/exhaust ratio of around 80-85% then most engine builders tell you the engine would make best power with a straight pattern camshaft (same intake and exhaust)
    Depending on the heads in question would cause an engine builder to favor one side or the other.

    In this case I would assume that Thunder Racing obvously thinks that stock heads don't need much exhaust help. I guess it works well on the LS engines because this style of camshaft is pretty popular.
    That's true, but that cam was their suggestion on stock heads, and stock heads flow well on the intake side compared to the exhaust side.

  12. #32
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedVertTA View Post
    That's true, but that cam was their suggestion on stock heads, and stock heads flow well on the intake side compared to the exhaust side.
    I don't know off hand what the I/E ratio is on a stock head so I can't say with certainty. But I'm sure Thunder Racing has a reason for it. There is probably more to the cam than just what is mentioned here.

    I think I have some flow numbers on paper somewhere of a stock LS1 or LS6 head without porting. I'll have to dig those up.

  13. #33
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    while ur at it look up 862 heads...lol i know when im get my heads done and cam made its going to have more ex lift b/c i have 2.055 valves on the intake side of things and if i try to use big lift on not so big springs its not going to end up well at all

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by T/A98 View Post
    The cam i have in my 1965 (other brand of car haha) has .014" more lift on the exhaust side. I dont know why you would want more on the intake side than exhaust. Youre gonna be able suck in alot more air, but cant push any of it out. Also, why would you buy Pacesetter Headers?? If you have the money for headers buy something decent: SLP, Hooker, QTP... Something that will actually fit and give you performance.
    if you are even thinking about getting SLP LT's... keep your pacesetters!

  15. #35
    Still The Junior Member RedVertTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    if you are even thinking about getting SLP LT's... keep your pacesetters!
    +1

    SLP's don't fit, they practically scrape the ground.

  16. #36
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by jojomanx View Post
    spark is good, fuel press good but is sputters without starting.

    It seems as if its off timing.

    I installed a Lunati cam as I would a OEM cam. Would that be correct?
    Its been 2 years since i put my BMW LS1 together and it has been a great upgrade.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UNDSKCguqc[/ame]

    75mph, 1500rpm = 25+mpg

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