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Need to replace/rebuild LS1 99 WS6 Need Advice!!!

This is a discussion on Need to replace/rebuild LS1 99 WS6 Need Advice!!! within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; The oil pump in my 99 WS6 went out and fried my LS1 motor. Well not totaly fried. The valve ...

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    Question Need to replace/rebuild LS1 99 WS6 Need Advice!!!

    The oil pump in my 99 WS6 went out and fried my LS1 motor. Well not totaly fried. The valve springs are weak and there are metal shavings on the magnet at the end of the oil drain plug. I pulled the intake and heads but can not find were the shavings are coming from. There are fine lines in 3 of the cylinder walls as well.

    So here I am trying to figure out what to do next. Do I go with another LS1? Do I go with a LS6? or is there other viable options out there? I need help! I have a budget of about 6K for Parts. I will have to do the labor my self. Can anyone help?

    I am looking for a long block preferably, I see there is the LS6 service engine that I could use, but for that amount of money what could I do with my LS1 motor in a rebuild? Thoughts, suggestions?

    This IS NOT a daily driver. it only has 30K miles on it. I can go big power so the options window is wide open here.


    Thanks,

    Brian from Houston

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    Do what I did, and drop that LS6 in there! If you have a $6000 budget, go to crateenginedepot.com and enter part #89017653, and you'll see that you can get a brand new (not rebuilt) LS6 with the proper heads, cam etc.. for $2999.00! My Camaro is also not my daily driver so I took advantage of dropping in a few performance parts before the install. I did SLP long tube headers, catback Loud mouth with SLP hi-flo cats, CAI, descreened the MAF, and dropped in a Comp Cam (228/230-571/573-112 LSA) and figured I might as well do the pushrods, and valve springs at the same time. You might think about the LS6 manifold with a 99 car. This should come at or under your budget.(with the exception of the manifold) I don't know if you have an A4 or M6, but if you have an M6, you might want to upgrade to a Spec 2 clutch. I did. I figure I'm at about 450 healthy HP at the motor.

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    HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE? IS IT NOT 405 hp? LIKE THE SERVICE ENGINE?

    by the way the serviceengine I refered to above is also from crateenginedepot but it runs 5K for 405 HP
    and yes its a M6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hoeffler View Post
    HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE? IS IT NOT 405 hp?




    Quote Originally Posted by 01LSS6Camaro View Post
    I took advantage of dropping in a few performance parts before the install. I did SLP long tube headers, catback Loud mouth with SLP hi-flo cats, CAI, descreened the MAF, and dropped in a Comp Cam (228/230-571/573-112 LSA) and figured I might as well do the pushrods, and valve springs at the same time.
    that is how it is possible, he mentioned he did LTs, and especially a cam, etc.

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    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    Drop a stroker in there! This one as a matter of fact http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=686&catid=20 Then add stock L92 heads and intake and have a screamer and still have enough left over to buy a steak dinner to celebrate.

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    I figured you went to crateenginedepot, because that's where I found the cheapest price too. Here's the thing, they DON'T list the engine part number I gave you. I was also going to get the service engine rated at 405hp for $4725.00. We can thank a fellow brother in this forum for turning me onto the "other" engine at crateenginedepot. Again, you must enter the part number I gave you. To make a looooong story short, I wasn't convinced that it was a REAL LS6 engine and called them at crate, then went to my local Chevy dealer. Both of them said it was a Cadillac engine. They were right, it went into the CTS-V. It is rated at 400HP because the exhaust is more restrictive than on the Vette. It DOES have the hollow intake valves, and sodium exhaust valves too! It is the same motor! I went and read the press release online for the 2004 CTS-V and GM states that it is the Z06 motor. So, with all the mods I've done, I'm assuming that I can honestly say I'm putting out 450HP at the motor, maybe more. All this with the factory warranty. Trust me, I felt the same way, it sounded too good to be true. Now, go buy that motor and get yer car running again! Psssst at least do the intake, and exhaust, you'll thank yourself later. Good luck...Jim
    Remember the part number is...89017653...NOT 12498399!

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    01LSS6Camaro,

    Well its done, I bought the one you told me about. There went $3100

    Did you do anything to the heads to open them up? The cam sounds like a good idea. Did you have to reprogram your computer after this install? Should I update the lifters while I am in there? I see comp cams suggests it. I should have enough left to do the pully, fast 90mm intake and throttle body. I dont know if I will have enough left for the long tubes though. I will have to see. Or should I go Long tubes first then intake and throttle body?
    Last edited by belairtx55; 05-24-2007 at 08:31 AM.

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    First of all...Congratulations! You made a good choice. No, I didn't do anything to the heads, I plan on upgrading to different heads in the distant future, after my bank account recuperates. If you ever were thinking about doing the cam, it sure is alot easier with the motor out. What I did was long and painstaking, I bought each item as my paycheck allowed, deliberately buying the motor LAST, so I would not be tempted to throw it in. As far as the reprogramming is concerned, my will be done after the break-in, you see I JUST did this install last week. We flashed the computer for now, and then we'll put her on the dyno,(after the break in) and go WOT. Then we'll tune her. She runs well right now, but I'm looking forward to the tune. I don't see why you would need to replace the lifters, since they're brand new. Comp also suggests you change the single row timing chain too, but I didn't bother. For crying out loud, my car sat for 9 months while I bought all this stuff! Enough is enough! My tuner said that a descreened stock MAF is fine, that alot of the aftermarket ones are really hard to tune for the minimal gains. We''ll see at tune time if the stock MAF and TB are up to the task. if not, out they go! I STRONGLY suggest you do the LT headers before you even think about the cam. Do the CAI (cold air intake) and exhaust as your first mods. Pick your favorite brand system and go for it. I just happen to like SLP, but there are cheaper, and some say better systems out there.Since the car is not your daily driver, you might think about doing what I did, and save a little, buy the intake, and exhaust, then save a little more and do the cam before you drop it in. Just an idea, it's hard to wait, especially now that the weather is getting nice. Well, I've given you alot to think about. Good job Brian, you won't be disappointed! Jim

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    put in a 408 stroker motor and call it a day..... you will never have to worry about power then you just have to worry about breaking other stuff. like rears and trannys

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    Member 2001hawk's Avatar
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    I think the OP already went with the LS6, but I would go with the LS2 block myself. If you go with the 4" crank you will get the 402/408 cid. There are quite a few H/C 402/408s running over 500 RWHP.

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    I considered that option too, but it was more $$$. I believe, and I may be incorrect, that the '99 manifold would have to be replaced with an LS2 block. Where for now he can at least run his '99 manifold until his budget allows him to swap it out on the LS6.

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    Just my 2 cents....I would pick up one of the new LSX blocks and build on that. Can handle up to 2500 hp and can be had for $2K......then just shop around for the internals......should still be under your $6K budget......plus you can get 454 Cubic Inches out of it easily!!!! Just a thought........

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    The Engine has been bought so the next step is the Cam.

    With it not being a DD, what size cam can I go with that is still streatable but will give me that rumble that we all crave?

    Hey Jim, how does your car sound with that cam in it?
    Last edited by belairtx55; 05-25-2007 at 08:25 AM.

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    Hey Brian! I really like the cam I have, it has a nice lope to it, but when it's tuned, some of that will go away. I've been babying it, because it's not broken in yet, but I'm looking forward to gettin' on it. The cam I bought was Comp cam XR281HR for $380.00 Upgraded springs $170.00 Pushrods $125.00 Even though both of ours are not DD, I didn't want to go too agressive, but you might! Do you have a HP number that you want to achieve Brian? You will want to start thinking about a rear end, because our 10 bolts aren't up to the task. I am thinking a Moser 12 bolt with 4:10's I've already done a bit of suspension work, that's when the motor let go, so the funds were directed towards that. But now, I'm saving for the 12 bolt. I did girdle the 10 bolt for now, and am going to not push it too hard until the 12 bolt gets in there. I don't want it to sit again! lol Oh, the cam is very streetable, and with you having a M6 you can get by without a tune for a while.

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    cool,

    honestly the mid 400s is good for me. I think trying to get to the 500 range is going to get costly. I just dont want to be anywhere close to the stock 320 to 325 horse motors, you know what I mean? I was thinking of getting the exhaust ports opened up as well, but if it inludes replacing the valves I dont want to mess with it. Looking at the high performance lifters from comp cams, they say you need an adjustable valve train. I dont think I want to get into that either. which valve springs did you get. Comp cams has theres for $238.00 yours are way cheaper. The push rods I have I bought them when the engine started tapping. they are the hardened chrome moly from comp cams. I think I spend 110 on them at a local shop here in Houston. So scratch the lifters, that saves me $250. Where are you buying your stuff from? Im looking at compcams web site and the cam is $473 there. OUCH!!!

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    found the #26918-16 springs on ebay for $150ish

    check them off the list!

    Now the CAM !!!

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    Got the Cam ordered. $370ish

    Im at $3826.20 on this build now.

    Next is the LT headers but I need some feedback on this as to which ones to buy. I have seen that there are some that fit better than others, perform better than others. Thoughts suggestions?

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    Best bang for buck, Pacesetter. Or if you want expensive, maybe Kooks or or FLP (I think), or Hooker, QTP. In that order. maybe.

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    Member Mr. Hyde's Avatar
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    I bought all my stuff from www.lmperformance.com Much cheaper than Comp's own website. I purchased the "beehive" springs, Comp own springs but much less than on their site. As far as headers go, everyone's got their favorite. My car is lowered quite a bit, and there's always the chance I'll hit the SLP headers, as they do hang low. I'm the kinda guy who sticks with one brand, even if it's a little more $$$. Not always the smartest thing to do, but it's too late now. Shop around, try to get your whole system at once so everything fits together, another reason why I bought all SLP exhaust stuff, it fits perfectly. The Loud Mouth IS noisy (duh) but I bought mine with both the resonator, and the race muffler at the same time. I have the resonator on it now, but will probably go to the muffler after break-in, and when I get it tuned. The SLP system is all stainless steel, so I like the fact that it won't rust. I don't know how many systems out there that are also stainless, I really didn't shop around for the exhaust, I knew what I wanted. My spring part # is 7955-16 (Comps #) or 006333 LMPerformance's # Which cam did you order??????? Give us the specs! I'm anxious to hear what you got! The adjustable valve train they are talking about is the double row timing chain, I didn't do that either.

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    I went to one of the magazine articles on the internet that did a comparison between the xr265 the xr275 and xr281. Here is what they found. There base performance with the stock cam and mods was HP/TQ 407/409 xr265HR had 439/426, the xr275 had 450/422 and the xr281 had 455/421, but the dyno showed the xr 281 was still gaining hp at the rev limit of 6200. They didn’t test past it so they are guestimating that the max power is somewhere around 6500 rpms. According to the artical, for the xr 281 you will need to adjust the timing and fuel curves to maximize the top end of this cam, as well as set the rev up to 6800rpms.

    So of course I went with the xr281!!!!!

    Add bigger fuel rails and injectors to the list....

    Add Tuning to the list!

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