Necessary for cam swap?

**bg552** · 05-13-2008, 09:27 PM

Alright so i've decided that i'm going to do a camp swap using my stock heads. Question is, what supporting mods are absoultely necessary for the cam swap?

98 Z28 46,000 Miles
Pacesetter LTs → True Duals

Stuck betwen two packages:

TSP XS Series Camshaft: 224/224, .581"/.581" 112 LSA
-Comp Cams 918 Spring Kit
-Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

"TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
- Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs
- Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

Do i need dual springs & titanium retainers instead? LS6 Oil pump? What do I NEED to install and run the cam safely?

**99w69kitt** · 05-14-2008, 09:10 AM

Originally Posted by bg552

Alright so i've decided that i'm going to do a camp swap using my stock heads. Question is, what supporting mods are absoultely necessary for the cam swap?

98 Z28 46,000 Miles
Pacesetter LTs → True Duals

Stuck betwen two packages:

TSP XS Series Camshaft: 224/224, .581"/.581" 112 LSA
-Comp Cams 918 Spring Kit
-Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

"TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
- Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs
- Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

Do i need dual springs & titanium retainers instead? LS6 Oil pump? What do I NEED to install and run the cam safely?

dual valve springs chromoly pushrods ls7 lifters ls6 oil pump ls2 timing chain i would go with the tsp package and make sure you save up for a stall the cam is going to be yelling for a stall

**UTVols98** · 05-14-2008, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by 99w69kitt

dual valve springs chromoly pushrods ls7 lifters ls6 oil pump ls2 timing chain i would go with the tsp package and make sure you save up for a stall the cam is going to be yelling for a stall

If your car is a manual then you won't need a stall. Everything mentioned above will be needed though. You might even want to just replace the whole timing set while your at it. You should get an UD pulley while you have the stocker pulled off.

**Bottesini** · 05-14-2008, 11:04 AM

The only things you must have are the apporiate springs and a tune depending on the cam (might need a stall for an auto). The oil pump, and timing chain are just a smart idea since it is a small price to pay for a lot of good insurance. Not to mention the work already is mostly done when you are doing the cam swap anyways.

For springs I would look into the Patriot Dual Springs they are easy on the pocket book and shoudl give you the peace of mind having a dual spring.

Pushrods and lifters are very optional for me. In fact I am running the stock pushrods on my car by choice instead of hardened ones. With lifters you might as well do heads as well since they have to come off if you want to change the lifters out. To me that did not make it worth while to change the lifters when I did a cam swap.

**rajiv1998** · 05-14-2008, 11:17 AM

LS6 intake and a ported tb or a FAST 90/90 are an absolute must as well.

**bg552** · 05-14-2008, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by rajiv1998

LS6 intake and a ported tb or a FAST 90/90 are an absolute must as well.

You most definitely do not need any of those for a cam swap. Would be nice to have though to open up the intake for more power.

**jujofields** · 05-14-2008, 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by bg552

You most definitely do not need any of those for a cam swap. Would be nice to have though to open up the intake for more power.

^^^Agreed! You don't need a different intake for a cam swap! haha...wtf? Though if you're considering a cam swap, I'll agree that you should have already gotten at least an ls6 intake if you didn't already have one....

**Y2KPewterSS** · 05-14-2008, 06:45 PM

The only absolute musts for a cam swap are upgraded valve springs and a tune. Its smart to upgrade the pushrods, timing chain and oil pump while you are doing the cam swap and its the best time to also do a underdrive pulley but none of those are a must. If you are an auto, it might be necessary to do a stall with a cam swap depending on how radical of a cam you go with.

You have to pull the heads to swap lifters.

**blackbirdbrain89** · 05-15-2008, 01:42 PM

the only thing ur need are valve springs and harden pushrods if ur a m6 u deff need push rods incase u over rev

**Bottesini** · 05-15-2008, 01:52 PM

Originally Posted by blackbirdbrain89

the only thing ur need are valve springs and harden pushrods if ur a m6 u deff need push rods incase u over rev

Depends on where you want the weak point to be. Whenever you run across the issue of bending a pushrod you have to decide was/it is better then something else taking the abuse. Myself I rather have a bent pushrod then a valve being hit by a piston. It is a debatable point whiter you need hardened pushrods or not. I would suggest talk around and read up as much as you can and then make a informed decision. What we have here is a great source of information, but I always like it when I can see how things performed in the real world with people I know.

**Rare99Firehawk** · 05-15-2008, 02:03 PM

Just finished cam swap, comp 222-224 566-568 112 lobe center. comp bee hive single springs, retainers & locks, chrome molly push rods, comp roller rockers & studs, and tune cost, was $1300.00 T56 car. I think I did ok.

**INMY01TA** · 05-15-2008, 03:20 PM

Comp 918s will work fine for a 224/563-588 cam. I daily drove my 224 cam with 918s. I didn't replace the timing chain or the oil pump either. Lifters aren't necesary either.

**greenTA** · 05-16-2008, 10:19 PM

dual valve springs and a tune are IMO the ONLY requirements. Hardened pushrods are a choice among 99% of the ppl doing cam swaps, but not always. With a hardened pushrod, if you miss a shift and your rpm's spike way up, you run the risk of ruining you engine because of the pushrods. With the softer pushrods, they will just bend and need to be replaced, but thats better than replacing your engine. A very reputable place by where i live doesn't sell hardened pushrods in their package, you have to ask for them. I would still do the hardened pushrods though. Timing chain and oil pump arent a must, but like everyone is saying its a little extra money for a lot of peace of mind. I didn't do them and i'm starting to wish i had....just b/c now it would be a pain to go back and do it.
Also, i've heard bad things about the 918 springs, and have read some forums where ppl have had extremely bad luck with them....I did patriot dual valve springs....
Good luck!

**Rare99Firehawk** · 05-17-2008, 03:34 PM

This may sound kinda stupid, but when I race, I do two things every time. First I stage shallow, so if I move the slighest I don't trip the red light at launch, second I watch the shifter when changing the gears so not to miss a shift. And after that I can get down the track hopefully with a win light. I never pay attention to the car along side of me. I missed a gear one time & it was costly. Since them I haven't missed a gear by doing the above. As silly as this may sound it works for me.

**greenTA** · 05-23-2008, 08:45 PM

what the hell does that have to do with a cam swap?

**2-bowties&abird** · 05-24-2008, 03:53 AM

i went the cheaper route without doing lifters, timing chain, and ls6 oil pump. the lifters didn't hold and now i have a lifter that raises hell sometimes.

**macca33** · 05-26-2008, 03:15 PM

It has been stated here and I agree that with a cam swap you NEED good valvesprings and hardened pushrods. Timing chains/oil pumps/UD pulleys are not absolutely necessary, but can give peace of mind (chain and pump) and release a few more horses (UD pulley). Lifters are a heads-off proposition and unless you have a problem one, or a problem develops, not necessary to change.

As for valvesprings, Comp 918s - even the 'new' batch have had some failures, so beware. I'd prefer PACs or Patriot duals, both of which are fairly cheap anyway.

Naturally, a proper tune will maximise the sum of your parts for better performance and drivability!

Out of those two cams, I'd choose the higher lift version - .581"

Cheers and good luck,

Macca

**2-bowties&abird** · 05-26-2008, 05:01 PM

Originally Posted by macca33

It has been stated here and I agree that with a cam swap you NEED good valvesprings and hardened pushrods. Timing chains/oil pumps/UD pulleys are not absolutely necessary, but can give peace of mind (chain and pump) and release a few more horses (UD pulley). Lifters are a heads-off proposition and unless you have a problem one, or a problem develops, not necessary to change.

As for valvesprings, Comp 918s - even the 'new' batch have had some failures, so beware. I'd prefer PACs or Patriot duals, both of which are fairly cheap anyway.

Naturally, a proper tune will maximise the sum of your parts for better performance and drivability!

Out of those two cams, I'd choose the higher lift version - .581"

Cheers and good luck,

Macca

they are the ones i went with, patriot dual valve spring kit. i think it was like 250-300 dollars.