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My Head/Cam Install

This is a discussion on My Head/Cam Install within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok well forget about starting it now. I just learned that the ARP headbolts have a washer that only goes ...

  1. #101
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Ok well forget about starting it now. I just learned that the ARP headbolts have a washer that only goes on one way. Well I fucked up and put them on wrong. So now I need to know the best route for taking all the bolts out of the heads and how to prperly re torque them. Do I need to remove the heads? Do I need new head gaskets? Do I need new bolts? Will coolant fill up the holes again? Do I pull them out one at a time and just re torque to final spec? Thanks for the help all

  2. #102
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Ok so here is the final consensus. I talked with two guys from ARP and also to Ron at Vengeance. All three agreed that I can pull one bolt at a time and re-torque to the final torque of 70 ft lbs. I feel that this should work because the head is already clamped to the block. Any ideas or suggestions to this method would be appreciated.

  3. #103
    Junior Member 2002Formula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    tell that to the already weak connecting rods that have years and mileage on them...if you hit 400rwhp then it is advised to change them on our cars
    i am thinking about doing this to my car too, but the thing is im getting a fresh short block since the engine in it is completly shot, so would i have to worry about this happening too? or would i be fine

  4. #104
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    blacker than wesleysnipes
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002Formula View Post
    i am thinking about doing this to my car too, but the thing is im getting a fresh short block since the engine in it is completly shot, so would i have to worry about this happening too? or would i be fine
    if you are planning on serious numbers..why not ? very cheap insurance for a multi-thousand dollar engine

  5. #105
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    Very nice progress man!! I cant' wait till I collect all the parts for my build. May I recommend switching out the knock sensors while all is off too

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    Member Jay37's Avatar
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    ???

  7. #107
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    ???
    I know I got so discouraged that I installed those head bolt washers wrong I havent got around to tearing it back apart yet

  8. #108
    Member Jay37's Avatar
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    hell ya... been there. i always look back to the famous teddy roosevelt quote....
    It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.

  9. #109
    Member MeGoFast's Avatar
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    You should be able to remove 1 bolt at a time following the torque sequence, flip the washer and retorgue. No need to worry about the rad fluid getting into block bolt holes, that would only happen if the heads were pulled up. After reassembling everything, check all connections and make sure the sensor is fully seated into the intake manifold in the back. That could make it run and die. Good luck!!

  10. #110
    Member ls1wallen's Avatar
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    any updates?

  11. #111
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    black trans am
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    man this has been a long job.... i did my swap in a week end but i do work on cars for a living. in not going to like i had 20 or more hrs in it and one hell of a big mess.. i took mine out of the bottem and did a ls6 cover and rod bolts as well.... aslo note the u soke the lifters the need to be standing up rollers down to get the air out of them.. i use a p2 and push down to stroke them to get all of the air out


    to cleen a block for a mls gasket i use a 400 gr on a block and take my time....for iron...

    alum i have a set of puddy knife that i keep super sharp to get all the crap off.... i spent over an hr cleening the block on my car i also uses about 1/2 gal of thinner lol

    u know it taken a while but u got some balls to even try to take a working fbody and swap heads on them ur self... there only one way to do it and that the hands on way

  12. #112
    Senior Member splitfinger09's Avatar
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    And done. What you think?


  13. #113
    Junior Member 02ssmaro's Avatar
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    SS # 4436
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    Good numbers and congrats on finally getting everything completed. I am going to start buying the parts for my car soon and i've never done a c/h swap either. This answered some of my questions. Good luck and have fun with it.

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