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My 6 Liter 403ci Build

This is a discussion on My 6 Liter 403ci Build within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; This is the reality of engine/car builds. Things don't always go well and they almost always take longer and cost ...

  1. #441
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    This is the reality of engine/car builds. Things don't always go well and they almost always take longer and cost more then expected
    -------------------------------------
    Kooks 1 7/8" race headers, Kooks ORY, Borla catback, Nitto 555R, LS6 intake manifold, Shaner S3 ported stock throttle body, SLP lid, smooth bellows, JAAM Ram Air kit, Elite Engineering catch can, LS6 valley cover, EGR and AIR deleted, Frost tune, and Simpson Racing child car seat in the back. 13.2 @ 108MPH

  2. #442
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    2001 Camaro SS

    Any updates Scott?

  3. #443
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    he has my kinda luck. Tons of it......all bad. My dad used to say that all the time.

  4. #444
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Any updates Scott?
    Funny you should ask......

    Last night: got both heads torqued down, rockers, push rods, valve covers, new plugs, wires and headers installed. My back is killing me as well...Trying to get it all done by Friday and this is fixed to where I can try to get a tune on Sat.




    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    he has my kinda luck. Tons of it......all bad. My dad used to say that all the time.

  5. #445
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I swear I need an exorcism performed on my car.

  6. #446
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I swear I need an exorcism performed on my car.
    I know some people that could probably do that for you lol.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
    421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

  7. #447
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    For a fee I can do it, but only in the state of Pennsylvania.

  8. #448
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...


  9. #449
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    well with enough Nocor and steroid shots you too can block out the back pain and finish this project too.....


    All together, fluids filled, all that's left is to hook battery up and turn key. I'm tired of doing this shit....


  10. #450
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  11. #451
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Couldn't sleep at all last night, kept thing about the car. A nagging feeling I needed to check something. So I tried starting it and turns out the battery was dead and needs some gas. Glad I checked. Battery is at Oreilly's getting recharge and I'll pick up gas on the way home after work.

  12. #452
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    not a repost...fucker still making the damn noise..... waiting on video upload...

    - - - Updated - - -







    not a repost...fucker still making the damn noise..... waiting on video upload...

  13. #453
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Timing chain hitting the front cover?


  14. #454
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    2000 Trans Am

    Are you using a double roller setup? If you use a stethoscope does the noise seem to be isolated to the front cover?

    2000 Trans Am T56 Swapped - GMPP "HOT" Cam | LS6 Intake | PnP TB | 25% UD Pulley | Founders adjustable LCA/PHB/TA | Norris Catch Can | TSP 1-7/8 SS LT | TSP True Duals with bullets | SLP Lid | UMI Shock tower brace | Torq Thrust M 17x9 275/40 front 17x10.5 315/35 rear - YouTube Videos - My Car Site

  15. #455
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Decadence75 View Post
    Are you using a double roller setup? If you use a stethoscope does the noise seem to be isolated to the front cover?
    I also agree on the stethoscope, sounds like valve train to me, how hard is it to pull front cover? Could it be the cam? Had a over head cam motor for a bike that had a noise I would have bet my house was in the valve train. After pulling it apart again and again took it to the shop and is was in the bottom end sending the sound right up to the top
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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    Coil overs, Heads & Cam

  16. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    I also agree on the stethoscope, sounds like valve train to me, how hard is it to pull front cover? Could it be the cam? Had a over head cam motor for a bike that had a noise I would have bet my house was in the valve train. After pulling it apart again and again took it to the shop and is was in the bottom end sending the sound right up to the top
    Water pump and crank pulley would have to come off, so would need to remove the radiator ect to take off the front cover. He just replaced the lifters so the only other things the cam is making contact with are the bearings and it's gear being spun on the timing chain.

  17. #457
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    well it looks like we have a candidate..

    Hard to tell but the timing chain on the right side is wedged against the dampner while the left side is loose, quite a bit of movement



    All that's left is to remove the bracket and replace the cam plate bolts, then button it all back up.


    Need some suggestions on how to get the oil pump bolt back on. We dropped the pan enough to get it off but getting it on is going to be an entirely different animal.

  18. #458
    Member Decadence75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Need some suggestions on how to get the oil pump bolt back on. We dropped the pan enough to get it off but getting it on is going to be an entirely different animal.
    I sat cross-legged under my car for a few hours fighting with that when I upgraded the pump a couple years back. My method was to wrap one of those metal bread ties that come on loaves when you buy them around the threaded part of the bolt near the head and use that to sort of position it in the pickup tube bolt hole. I don't quite remember if I was able to get a finger in there to get it spinning or if I used the closed end of a box wrench, but it was terribly frustrating and I called the car all sorts of bad names. Another idea might be if you have a 1/4" pass through ratchet set, it MIGHT be able to fit in that space. Or if you have a right angle screwdriver that you can put a socket attachment on to get it going. The bread tie was more so that I wouldn't drop the bolt into the pan and have even more headaches.

  19. #459
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    been a long time since I've done it but it seems like I put rags in the pan to keep it from rolling if I dropped it then put it in a gear wrench and put some masking tape on it to hold it in the wrench. After I got it started I pulled the tape off and tightened it the rest of the way.

  20. #460
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    well it looks like we have a candidate..

    Hard to tell but the timing chain on the right side is wedged against the dampner while the left side is loose, quite a bit of movement



    All that's left is to remove the bracket and replace the cam plate bolts, then button it all back up.


    Need some suggestions on how to get the oil pump bolt back on. We dropped the pan enough to get it off but getting it on is going to be an entirely different animal.
    Are you talking about getting it on the crank gear or getting the pickup bolt back on? Having done it both with the engine in the car and out of the car I would almost remove the engine again lol.

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