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My 6 Liter 403ci Build

This is a discussion on My 6 Liter 403ci Build within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by ls1camino Pull the radiator out before the motor. I think that plug is for the A/C. Yup. ...

  1. #21
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    Pull the radiator out before the motor.

    I think that plug is for the A/C.
    Yup. This gives you a lot more room.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
    421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

  2. #22
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Whoa whoa hold on. I never said if he dyno tuned it he wouldn't take it on the street. The tuner should absolutely do that. I thought the op meant that he would do just a street tune with no dyno time which is sometimes done and just making adjustments based off the wide and readings. In a case like that I would much rather have the dyno tune and the street touch up.

    Also I should have been more specific speed density will affect o2s if the op chooses to run in OL speed density which would require a better spot on tune. If he runs in CL then no it won't do anything to affect o2s. That still wouldn't change my mind about running speed density. Chryslers don't run a maf and I'm not sure why they choose that so I won't comment however unless you get a SPOT on tune a maf will still calculate for da changes better and will give you a small bump in fuel economy thanks to that.

    In a non track car I don't really see the benefits of running speed density. You may notice the subtle differences just driving around but why tune it all out if there's no issue? You won't be missing out on power but you will have one less sensor to worry about. To each his own I suppose

    And also op idk if your pulling it out bottom or top but if it's out the bottom you can leave all the accessories in place as well as the rad. If you go out the top it must come off obviously lol

  3. #23
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    In a non track car I don't really see the benefits of running speed density.
    There are quite a few benefits. Some personal preference. I prefer the SD tune as you mentioned, it's one less electronic device to worry about, no cleaning it, no malfunctions etc... For me any time I can get another electronic device out of my life I'm happy
    I also like the crisp throttle response it provides. MAF's work well when tuned correctly, but the crisper throttle response was still noticable when removed and running on the VE tables, so that alone made me stick to SD.
    You gain a slight HP increase because the restrictive MAF is now removed. For those that descreen and port them, and/or run larger MAF's, this may not be much of an issue.
    As far as gas mileage, I found a gain in MPG with the SD tune. I command the AFR I want, and it's more rock steady without much fluctuation. Doesn't matter what the DA is or whether I'm down in Phoenix at 1,000 ft elevation or up here at the house at 5,000 feet. I consistently get 21-22 mpg around town driving and can tickle 30 mpg highway. Before the SD tune the car would get 19-20 and 27-28 pretty consistent. I also found a gain in MPG when I tuned the 6.0 in my blazer and went SD on that as well.
    Been running SD now for about 3 years, no complaints here.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    ok...I will.........

    Sounds like you are pulling this out the top? Can't get the car up high enough to drop it out the bottom with the K-member?

  5. #25
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Sounds like you are pulling this out the top? Can't get the car up high enough to drop it out the bottom with the K-member?
    Yep it's out, had to go from the top. No lift, not enough jack stands that can stand that high.

    Took 2 days, not rushing, making sure I label and tag everything, make notes and such. I'll check tomorrow the ls1 to see what the carnage is when I pull the oil pan.




    Now before you say it, yes I know the engine bay is dirty. It's from a rack & pinon leak that I've been planning on fixing at this time too. It's a hell of a lot easier when no engine in the way.





  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Nothing a little pressure washing won't fix


    Looks like you're making some headway.

  7. #27
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    What's with all the tags in the engine bag?

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Everythings forsale

  9. #29
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrbonds View Post
    What's with all the tags in the engine bag?
    Labels for wires and hoses.

  10. #30
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    Labels for wires and hoses.


    Duh!! I was giving Scott a hard time.


  11. #31
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Everythings forsale



    Quote Originally Posted by jrbonds View Post


    Duh!! I was giving Scott a hard time.

    didn't you know after 40 you need to learn to write stuff down?

  12. #32
    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post

    didn't you know after 40 you need to learn to write stuff down?
    Nope, cause I'm not there yet.

  13. #33
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    :


    didn't you know after 40 you need to learn to write stuff down?
    Sad but true, just poking fun

  14. #34
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I know guys.....I'm laughing & poking fun at myself too.....

    You have to keep your humor up when doing these things. What I find so damn funny is it was by far easier to remove this one then it was doing the Jeep. For such a small engine (Jeep) it had a ton of BS all around it.

    I guess pulling the heads in December was a practice run for this time. Only thing I'm going to hate is trying to re-install the tranny. Previous times I had access to a lift, made life so much easier. This time I would need to trailer it to the lift or do it in the garage.


    Anyone know anyone interested in LQ4 water pump, fly wheel, and a couple of other things?

  15. #35
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    My BTR Valve springs cam in today


  16. #36
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    one thing I notice when pulling the nose piece off, there is a ton of "shit" that gets trapped in there. I found leaves, sand, feathers from a road kill, even a gum wrapper.





    A couple of questions for ya'll


    Since I'm here and the bay is open, I'd like to address some issues like faded, worn paint, etc.

    Duplacolor has my color in a can. I'm not to fond of doing this, but at the same time I can't afford a full pain job either. Suggestions?


    Wire looms, cheaper to order online or find a local stereo shop?

    Those damn sharp pointed plastic rivets on the cowl. Can I trim them back some and not worry the cowl will fly off?

  17. #37
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    one thing I notice when pulling the nose piece off, there is a ton of "shit" that gets trapped in there. I found leaves, sand, feathers from a road kill, even a gum wrapper.





    A couple of questions for ya'll


    Since I'm here and the bay is open, I'd like to address some issues like faded, worn paint, etc.

    Duplacolor has my color in a can. I'm not to fond of doing this, but at the same time I can't afford a full pain job either. Suggestions?


    Wire looms, cheaper to order online or find a local stereo shop?

    Those damn sharp pointed plastic rivets on the cowl. Can I trim them back some and not worry the cowl will fly off?
    As far as rattle can paint, it won't last on exterior surfaces so I wouldn't bother. There is no hardener in it so it scratches and chips very easy, and it's not very resistant to UV rays so it will fade in short order. Best way to do that (and I know you don't want to hear it) but real paint with your hardeners and reducers mixed together and shoot it. I did front and rear bumpers for a customer on a 4th gen not long ago. Materials was about $300 alone, I shot them both for $500 out the door. Some shops don't work as cheap as I do and can charge as much as $1500 or more, just have to shop around.

    If you are talking about plastic wire looms, I get them from Napa. They have large spools in the back and charge about .25 cents a foot. If you buy it already in the bags (usually only a 2 foot section) from the spinning rack they charge more. So I'd ask around at the local stores in your area, someone is bound to have it on spools in the back, much cheaper that way.

    And yes, I clipped off the sharp edges under the cowl of my wifes car a few years ago. She drives it everyday, been fine. I just barely cut the tips off, maybe 1/8" so they don't bite so much when you stick your arm under there

  18. #38
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Machine shop quoted me $700 for:

    Magnaflux, hot tank, install new cam bearings, line hone the main's for ARP studs, balance the rotating assembly, resize the connecting rods for ARP bolts, hone the cylinders & build it to a short block.

    Too much, sounds right? It's in the middle of the other quotes but this one has a good rep with the local LSx community and is doing more then the other shops. One quoted me $1500. (FU) Felt like he didn't want the job, kept talking about Mustangs.....what ever.

  19. #39
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Not a bad price at all.

    I usually spend about $500 just on block prep, (Magnafluxing, cleaning, bore-hone, align hone the mains, deck it, and crank machining)

    I assemble everything myself including cam bearings and freeze plugs, so for you to get a complete short block assembled and ready to rock for $700 I'd say it's very reasonable if the work they do is reputable.

  20. #40
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Only reason I'm having them put it to short block is on Thursday I'll be useless for a while due to shoulder surgery. They told me that because of race season it's going to take 2-3 weeks. I'm consider low priority because the teams are their bread/butter. I'm ok as long as it's done right & my parts that I bring go on it and not on someone else ride.


    I'm going to take a shit load of pics of the parts and inventory them, too anal or right thing to do to protect my ass, um, investment?

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