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LS7 Lifter Question

This is a discussion on LS7 Lifter Question within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What up LS1's. OK I have the LS7 lifters for my 98 LS1. I know they're direct replacements BUT do ...

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    LS7 Lifter Question

    What up LS1's. OK I have the LS7 lifters for my 98 LS1. I know they're direct replacements BUT do I need to replace my stock lifter trays??? Can I re-use my stock trays? Thanks.....Also I purchased 7.350 hardened Chromoly Pushrods to compensate for the height difference......

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    What up LS1's. OK I have the LS7 lifters for my 98 LS1. I know they're direct replacements BUT do I need to replace my stock lifter trays??? Can I re-use my stock trays? Thanks.....Also I purchased 7.350 hardened Chromoly Pushrods to compensate for the height difference......
    ...however you did a good think with the longer pushrods ..that is the major thing.
    Last edited by shady milkman; 12-07-2009 at 07:18 AM. Reason: inaccurate information given

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    ok after some research ..i found that no modification needs to be done with the trays..however they are about 6 bucks a piece and since you drive a 98 it would be wise to swap them out as the plastic is almost 12 years old and will be worn out.

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    ok after some research ..i found that no modification needs to be done with the trays..however they are about 6 bucks a piece and since you drive a 98 it would be wise to swap them out as the plastic is almost 12 years old and will be worn out.
    Good idea! I like your call on replacing the 12 year old trays. Thanks for the info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    ...however you did a good think with the longer pushrods ..that is the major thing.
    Right......yeah, I actually over revved my vehicle about a week before my project started and realized I had not only bent a pushrod (possibly) but also worsened the condition of my springs. When i checked my pushrods one of them seemed a little crooked........also what's the stock rpm we should be able to take our vehicles??? I hear websites say over 6,000. If that's so I'm glad I have the new 224R cam and 918 springs because mine would give out (valve float) around 5900.......

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    if I remember right stock rev limiters were set bewteen 6,000-6,200.
    in a week I'll be spinning mine to 7,500

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if I remember right stock rev limiters were set bewteen 6,000-6,200.
    in a week I'll be spinning mine to 7,500
    Must be nice man!! What's your set-up to allow this! ARP Rod bolts?? REV KIT in the valvetrain?? I'm jealous now

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    i will try to speak for mark i could be wrong..but a upgraded valve-train is the biggest thing..along with rod bolt ...hardened pushrods, retainers, locks, springs, lifters ...you get the idea..all of those should be addressed in order to rev that high..if not ..you are asking for float and some french kissing between the valve and the piston top

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    i will try to speak for mark i could be wrong..but a upgraded valve-train is the biggest thing..along with rod bolt ...hardened pushrods, retainers, locks, springs, lifters ...you get the idea..all of those should be addressed in order to rev that high..if not ..you are asking for float and some french kissing between the valve and the piston top
    Right..so......how high could/should I rev my engine once the 224R cam w/918 springs are installed along with ARP bolts? I also have chromoly style retainers for this set-up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Right..so......how high could/should I rev my engine once the 224R cam w/918 springs are installed along with ARP bolts? I also have chromoly style retainers for this set-up.
    Depending upon your intake and exhaust setup, and the LSA of that cam, you will want to shift in the 6300-6500rpm range. A dyno sheet that is provided with tuning will tell you the best shift point.

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Depending upon your intake and exhaust setup, and the LSA of that cam, you will want to shift in the 6300-6500rpm range. A dyno sheet that is provided with tuning will tell you the best shift point.
    OK. Thanks. My LSA is 114 and I have SS longtubes and a TSP Off Road Y on the way.....

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    i will try to speak for mark i could be wrong..but a upgraded valve-train is the biggest thing..along with rod bolt ...hardened pushrods, retainers, locks, springs, lifters ...you get the idea..all of those should be addressed in order to rev that high..if not ..you are asking for float and some french kissing between the valve and the piston top
    said just like I would have lol

    the stock springs and cam run into valve float possibilities as low as 6,200 rpms.

    asfar as rod bolts, ordered Katech bolts the other day for $199. the Katechs are a drop in replacement, with the ARP bolts you should/need to have alittle machine work done to the stock rods.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Depending upon your intake and exhaust setup, and the LSA of that cam, you will want to shift in the 6300-6500rpm range. A dyno sheet that is provided with tuning will tell you the best shift point.
    that sounds about right, with my 220/224 .570/.580 112 and ported heads I found it ran best shifting at 6,500.....but I'd think stock heads/intake combo would be dropping off quick by 6,500rpms.
    getting everything back together this week/ weekend and want to start on a sheetmetal intake.....that just might give me a few 100 more rpms

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    only problem with super high rpms is that my tach only goes to 7k lol time for an aftermarket tach too

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    said just like I would have lol

    the stock springs and cam run into valve float possibilities as low as 6,200 rpms.

    asfar as rod bolts, ordered Katech bolts the other day for $199. the Katechs are a drop in replacement, with the ARP bolts you should/need to have alittle machine work done to the stock rods.
    So I need to perform machine work on the rods huh?? If so that's to bad man...I've been out of a ride for almost 2 months now waiting on parts and am finally getting something done.....tell me this isn't a must have?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    So I need to perform machine work on the rods huh?? If so that's to bad man...I've been out of a ride for almost 2 months now waiting on parts and am finally getting something done.....tell me this isn't a must have?
    with the Katechs, just take one bolt at a time out and replace it with new.

    rodbolts a must have? no but they are if your spinnning super high and want your bottom end to hold together

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    with the Katechs, just take one bolt at a time out and replace it with new.

    rodbolts a must have? no but they are if your spinnning super high and want your bottom end to hold together
    if you are pushing over 400rwhp they sure as hell are that and i believe 98s are known to have some rod bolt issues anyways...... its about time for me to change them...but i need to wait till i pull my motor for a complete refresh and upgrade.........

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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    if you are pushing over 400rwhp they sure as hell are that and i believe 98s are known to have some rod bolt issues anyways...... its about time for me to change them...but i need to wait till i pull my motor for a complete refresh and upgrade.........
    yes 98-99 are weaker and I'd never recomend anyone to spin 7,000rpms without rod bolts.

    now for the honesty......
    I was doing the cam, oil pump, timing set upgrade.....while unbolting the pickup tube I dropped not only the bolt, but my 10mm wrench down into the ouk pan.......had to unbolt the oil pan to get the bolt and wrench out.
    so, its only 6-8 more bolts to drop the K member and pull the pan completely out at this point.

    tes I should have upgraded the bolts anyway, but I'm this far into the job already and would be a fool not to lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    yes 98-99 are weaker and I'd never recomend anyone to spin 7,000rpms without rod bolts.

    now for the honesty......
    I was doing the cam, oil pump, timing set upgrade.....while unbolting the pickup tube I dropped not only the bolt, but my 10mm wrench down into the ouk pan.......had to unbolt the oil pan to get the bolt and wrench out.
    so, its only 6-8 more bolts to drop the K member and pull the pan completely out at this point.

    tes I should have upgraded the bolts anyway, but I'm this far into the job already and would be a fool not to lol
    true

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    if you are pushing over 400rwhp they sure as hell are that and i believe 98s are known to have some rod bolt issues anyways...... its about time for me to change them...but i need to wait till i pull my motor for a complete refresh and upgrade.........
    Yeah, I've read that in many magazines and LS1/LS6 books. 98 Rod bolts are suspect! Looks like we both of 98 LS1's so......time to get er done!

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