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Ls6 new heads.

This is a discussion on Ls6 new heads. within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones The 799's (number doesn't ring a bell) might be the 5.3 heads that are popular for ...

  1. #21
    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    The 799's (number doesn't ring a bell) might be the 5.3 heads that are popular for swapping on LS1's. They have a smaller combustion chamber that bumps compression. But the LS6 heads do the same thing as well, from 10:1 to 10.5:1 if they are not milled.

    I haven't seen the exhaust ports on the 5.3 heads, but I do know the 243 LS6 heads have the "D" shaped exhaust port which helps the short turn radius, with a wider floor. This improves the I/E ratio numbers substantially and gives LS6 heads a slight advantage over other LS1 heads. It's up to you and what you want to spend.

    I personally would buy a set from a reputable shop that are new and ready to go.
    Buying used presents several problems. Hard to tell what you have until you spend some money at the machine shop. At a minimum I would say new guides are a must, possibly new valves even if it has used valves with the heads. Seat work possibly, a valve job a must, new springs and seals will be required anyway regardless of what you do. Possibly need milling if they aren't flat or have any imperfections on the head gasket sealing surface. Some people aren't too gentle when tossing heads around the garage and they do get nicked.
    I could go on and on, but the cost to repair even a nice used set could be another $500 on top of your purchase price, and could easily go to $700 or more if they need more attention.
    So unless you are absolutely sure about the used heads you are buying, I'd lean towards a new or remanufactured set ready to go. In the end the cost is just about the same.

    I bought LS6 heads (243's) years ago from an 02 Z06 vette that had 30,000 miles on them. I paid $250 for them. They are complete with the sodium filled exhaust valves and hollow intakes. They look nice enough and probably would be okay to just slap on the car. But I won't do it. At the very least I'll send them off to be checked for guide clearance, flatness, cracks, get a valve job done and replace the springs and seals. I'll bet I will stick another $5-600 in them easily. So they just sit on the shelf. See what I mean??
    799 were the truck heads from the TBSS.

  2. #22
    Member rkvette's Avatar
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    those heads [243] came on all 2002>2004 zo6's corvettes .. funny thing all 2006>2009 impala ss v8, have those heads.. also same came on 2006/2007 chevy monte carlo,ss v8's.,also had some pontiac's fwd ,about same years. i am sure the better/best would be from from the corvettes, b/c then were 5.7 cubes/405 horsepower stock..rkvette

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    also go to the corvette forums to find 243s for sale.get a valve job and new springs and valve seals and you gain 15 hp.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkvette View Post
    those heads [243] came on all 2002>2004 zo6's corvettes .. funny thing all 2006>2009 impala ss v8, have those heads.. also same came on 2006/2007 chevy monte carlo,ss v8's.,also had some pontiac's fwd ,about same years. i am sure the better/best would be from from the corvettes, b/c then were 5.7 cubes/405 horsepower stock..rkvette
    Yes but only the ZO6 version of the heads got the sodium filled exhaust valves and hollow intake valves.

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    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Yes but only the ZO6 version of the heads got the sodium filled exhaust valves and hollow intake valves.
    I would actually prefer the ones without, in case of piston/valve contact. Especially if going with a higher lift cam. The sodium filled valves are more likely to just break into little pieces rather than bend.

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    Junior Member purged2000ss's Avatar
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wooddaniel View Post
    I would actually prefer the ones without, in case of piston/valve contact. Especially if going with a higher lift cam. The sodium filled valves are more likely to just break into little pieces rather than bend.
    In case if piston to valve contact? I think you have other things to be worrying about then.

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    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    In case if piston to valve contact? I think you have other things to be worrying about then.

    Yeah, true enough. But with a high lift bigger cam, sodium valves vs non sodium I would rather deal with a bent valve than one of the hollow ones busting up and getting peices into the motor in case it does happen. Happened to a buddy of mine.

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    If you do your math right to begin with, this shouldn't be a problem. Surely you wouldn't slap a Magic Stick 6 (lol) in and not know PTV clearance, would you??

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Ya, those things should be checked regardless. Hollow valves have been around a long time. To be honest, if you ever did smack one and it happened to break into peices, the engine won't be running long enough to matter. I've seen valve heads broken clean off on a solid stem valve.
    Once you bend or break one the damage is done anyway.

    I've run hollow valves in my BBC for years without an issue. Of course I'm not smacking valves either, any good engine won't if built properly.
    Big advantages to lighter valves. Better valve control at higher rpms and requires less spring pressure to do it. Less spring pressure is easier on valvetrain parts. In the end it makes more HP. All your high end engines nowadays have them. Even your OEM manufactures are using them and have been for many years.

  11. #31
    Army of 1 wooddaniel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Ya, those things should be checked regardless. Hollow valves have been around a long time. To be honest, if you ever did smack one and it happened to break into peices, the engine won't be running long enough to matter. I've seen valve heads broken clean off on a solid stem valve.
    Once you bend or break one the damage is done anyway.

    I've run hollow valves in my BBC for years without an issue. Of course I'm not smacking valves either, any good engine won't if built properly.
    Big advantages to lighter valves. Better valve control at higher rpms and requires less spring pressure to do it. Less spring pressure is easier on valvetrain parts. In the end it makes more HP. All your high end engines nowadays have them. Even your OEM manufactures are using them and have been for many years.
    I didnt know all of that. Well I knew that you should check clearance to make sure there are no issues. I was always told by my dad that there was not really too much advantage to the hollow valves. (He has been a mechanic for 30 years). I grew up working on older BBC, SBC, olds and buick motors with him. Basically anything classic and GM.
    Last edited by wooddaniel; 09-13-2010 at 05:50 PM.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wooddaniel View Post
    I didnt know all of that. Well I knew that you should check clearance to make sure there are no issues. I was always taught by my dad that there was not really too much advantage to the hollow valves. (He has been a mechanic for 30 years). I grew up working on older BBC, SBC, olds and buick motors with him. Basically anything classic and GM.
    Thats cool. For a run of the mill street engine, they really aren't necessary. Their whole advantage is lighter weight. Lighter weight is easier to control.
    BBC's inherantly have heavy valve trains. They are notorious for valve float. To fight that I run hollow stem valves and titanium retainers. Also take into account I am running larger 2.25 intake valves which are heavier anyway, and the exhaust valves are 1.88, so you can see the valvetrain is just naturally going to be heavy. Since I am running a hydraulic roller (which makes things even worse) because the hydraulic lifters are so big and heavy, the springs have to control those too. Not to mention it's a big roller with fast ramp profiles.
    So to help with all that, hollow stem valves and titanium retainers go a long way. Lets me spin the motor to 6,500 easily without issues, which is pretty good for a hydraulic roller in a BBC.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 09-13-2010 at 04:23 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wooddaniel View Post
    I would actually prefer the ones without, in case of piston/valve contact. Especially if going with a higher lift cam. The sodium filled valves are more likely to just break into little pieces rather than bend.
    that is exactly why I have stock LS1 valves with P&P LS6 heads because my plans include using a Trex cam. I wanted to use bigger valves but TR suggested to play it safe and keep stock valves when using this cam. if some one has better advice please chime in

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    Back to the "OP" I would suggest Texas Speed PRC heads they are a low budget head
    that is good quality for the money and make good power for around $1300.!!
    Like Firebird Jones said no worrie's about used parts!

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    I found a set for I think $350, brand new shipped. PM me if interested and I can try to get in touch with the guy again. They are bare.

    I had some LS2 243 heads a few years ago that I was going to put on my LS1 GTO but never got around to it so I sold them and made a few bucks. That was when you could get $500+ shipping for them. lol

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    hit 400 with stock timing/computer on my first pull and something was pinging right around 4k. We think its a plug so I am going to change them out and hope its not a head gasket. I have stock maf and stock tb. My tuner said I should be looking at 420 with stock maf but if I put a truck maf on it I could see 430

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRANS-DAD View Post
    Back to the "OP" I would suggest Texas Speed PRC heads they are a low budget head
    that is good quality for the money and make good power for around $1300.!!
    This! PRC heads > Patriot heads.

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