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Thread: ls1 to ls6
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01-11-2007, 10:34 AM #1
ls1 to ls6
does anybody know all the stuff I need to convert my engine into a ls6?
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01-11-2007, 11:20 AM #2
The main difference between the LS1 and the LS6 is the intake manifold and heads. So if you put swapped those onto your LS1, you'd have about the same power as an LS6.
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01-11-2007, 12:26 PM #3
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01-11-2007, 12:29 PM #4
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01-11-2007, 01:26 PM #5
Not worth the work in my opinion. If you're going to do a H/C swap, you might as well go for something bigger.
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01-11-2007, 01:41 PM #62018 CTS-V: °°668rwhp/658rwtq°°
2013 ZL1: °°590rwhp/576rwtq°°
"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience."
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01-12-2007, 12:46 PM #7
i kepted my ls1 block and just added ls6 heads and intake
slp lid,maf and smooth bellow. ls6 intake, cnc ported and polished ls6 heads with competition valve job. cam 237,242 .603,.609 113 lsa. pacesetter longtube headers and off road y-pipe. magnaflow catback
dyno numbers on a mustang dyno
394 rwhp @ 6300 RPM
345.7 rwtq @ 4800 RPM
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01-15-2007, 02:57 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Levittown, Pa
- Posts
- 9
Pewter- 2000 FRC
LS1 Block = LS6 Block
After 2001 the blocks were the same.
Besides the heads, cam and MAF (85mm), the other major driveline differences were the trans (wide ratio unit), rear gears were shot peened and the air cleaner and exhaust were less restrictive.
BlackLT1Z28 and SSwt00SS are right on the money!
Get a set of heads from TSP for 1K, a mild cam & springs (224/224 or 224/228) and you will pass the base Z06 combo by a lot.
If you want seat of the pants feeling, try a rear gear change. Going from 3:42's to 4:10's was a marked difference.
Bob K.
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01-15-2007, 05:36 PM #9
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01-16-2007, 01:51 PM #10
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- arizona
- Age
- 45
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- 27
I have an ls6 short block with around 20,000 miles. It has arp connecting rod bolts and double roller timing chain, and a 226 234 563 587 114 lsa cam in it for sale. I also have ls1 stage 2 ported heads complete with valve train(comp springs,titaniam retainers,cromolly pushrods). And ls1 computer with wiring harness. Its basically a long block, but if u wanted the shortblock, i will part it out. If your intrested, let me know.
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01-16-2007, 02:25 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Levittown, Pa
- Posts
- 9
Pewter- 2000 FRC
I get 18-20 mpg around town as long as I keep my foot out of it. Comming home from Carlise last year I got 31.5 mpg on the highway.
Bob K.
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01-16-2007, 02:41 PM #12
You could do much better with a heads/cam set-up from one of the vendors...
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01-16-2007, 08:27 PM #13
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- arizona
- Age
- 45
- Posts
- 27
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01-17-2007, 10:07 PM #14
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- San Diego...Michigan originally
- Age
- 40
- Posts
- 1,426
Pewter- 1999 Trans Am 5.7L
Yeah, if you are going to replace the cam, get the one that YOU want. Not just some LS6 cam, which is not going to get you much. As for the heads, just buy LS6 stock heads on ebay. They usually run about 200 bucks. Then do all of the valvetrain work that you want on those heads while they are off, and when you are ready, replace the heads, cam, lifters all at the same time. Then you can get more RPM and a heck of a lot more HP out of it.
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01-18-2007, 07:09 AM #15
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01-20-2007, 09:56 AM #16
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01-20-2007, 09:57 AM #17
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