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LS1 & $4k towards rebuild. what to do?

This is a discussion on LS1 & $4k towards rebuild. what to do? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I personally would not get a Walbro pump. Get the Racetronix....

  1. #181
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I personally would not get a Walbro pump. Get the Racetronix.

  2. #182
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I personally would not get a Walbro pump. Get the Racetronix.
    You guys are aware the racetronix kit is a walbro pump,,,right? It's just in kit form to make it easier to install.

  3. #183
    Member youngrigo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    You guys are aware the racetronix kit is a walbro pump,,,right? It's just in kit form to make it easier to install.
    Lol.... I dont think they do!

  4. #184
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngrigo View Post
    Lol.... I dont think they do!
    Mine did.

  5. #185
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Yes I know that. The Racetronix kit is much simpler to install though...at least from everything I've heard from tuners, installers, and from what I've read.

  6. #186
    Member youngrigo's Avatar
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    How much is the Racetronix kit? Because i think i paid $120 for my walbro pump
    1967 Camaro - LS1 T56 project
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  7. #187
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    209 from Thunder Racing

  8. #188
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Theres a couple things that need to be cleared up here, first off 209 is for the pump and the wiring which is nice but not needed if its just for a simple upgrade (i have just the pump in mine) 149 gets you the pump which is really what you need. Second Ive held both a walbro and the racetronix pump in my hands and they are different although they are made by the same company the racetronix kit allows the pump to be fitted into the old fuel bucket WITHOUT cutting it and can therefore maintain the stock pump assembly. the walbro pump requires you to cut the fuel bucket which will let the pump run dry in the event you run the tank low the fuel bucket is designed to keep the pump submerged in fuel till the tank is completely empty by cutting it to allow for the walbro pump you eliminate this feature.

  9. #189
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    ^^^this

  10. #190
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    wont i need the wiring for the swap?

  11. #191
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I would,,,,the kit comes with a wiring setup that runs directly to the alternator if I remember correctly.
    It's so you don't get so much voltage drop all the way back to the pump, especially when you are running other accessories. That way your fuel pressure stays consistent no matter what. Highly recommended.

  12. #192
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I would,,,,the kit comes with a wiring setup that runs directly to the alternator if I remember correctly.
    It's so you don't get so much voltage drop all the way back to the pump, especially when you are running other accessories. That way your fuel pressure stays consistent no matter what. Highly recommended.
    I believe this is correct. The kit comes with all new wiring with NO adapters like the other set-ups.

  13. #193
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    ill already be running enough adapter as it is...

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Basically what they said is right I didnt use the wiring and just got the pump but I have a bolt on car many people skip out on the wiring there isnt really a dead right way or a dead wrong way its just insurance against something happening although I cant say I've ever seen voltage drop with the stock wiring that hinders performance I mean think about it when people just drop in a walbro pump they usually just use the stock wiring.

  15. #195
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    From their site...

    The Wiring Harness

    All fuel pumps are voltage sensitive, the lower the voltage the lower the fuel volume. Gerotor pumps exhibit a significant increase in fuel volume with increased supply voltage. A Walbro pump's average fuel volume increases over 18% by increasing the supply voltage from 12 to 13.5 volts. The factory harness is marginal at best for supplying a factory pump with enough voltage to perform well. This is why the 'hot wire' modification is so popular. Replacing the factory pump with a high-performance pump such as the Walbro GSS340M can easily double the current demand under W.O.T. pressures. The voltage drop in the factory harness increases proportionally to the current demands of the pump. Racetronix has documented tests where the voltage drop in a factory harness has caused over a 25% drop in fuel pump volume. The Racetronix harness uses heavy 10 gauge copper wire to reduce voltage-drop to very low levels. The factory gauge of wire used is three gauges thinner. Our power feed comes off the back of the alternator where voltage is highest. It then runs through a Delphi weatherproof fuse holder and then to the back of the car. The Racetronix harness uses three-position male and female Delphi Weatherpack connectors which plug inline with the factory harness at the back of the tank. No cutting or splicing is required. A Siemens weatherproof 40 amp rated mil-spec. relay is used. These relays have silver plated contacts and are the best money can buy so that you can be guaranteed to have trouble-free operation. The Racetronix harness has a redundant ground upgrade as it is necessary to improve the harness on the negative side of the pump's supply as well. All the harness connections are crimped using certified Delphi crimpers and are soldered as well. All the harnesses we have seen to date from the competition are not soldered. Racetronix supplies a spare ATO fuse, black vinyl wire ties, silicon grease and mounting hardware with each kit. We are including as a bonus our optional battery to body ground upgrade kit. This kit upgrades the under-rated ground wire running from the battery to the inner side of the passenger's quarter panel. It includes a crimped and soldered piece of high strand count 8 gauge copper wire and a brass battery nut with an accessory tap.

  16. #196
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    You would have to drive the car with a volt meter connected to the pump wiring back at the tank. You will see the voltage going up and down depending on conditions.

    I've seen this on external electric pumps installed on vintage cars,,and I've also seen how this affects the fuel pressure.

  17. #197
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Ah well there ya go, thanks 35th. That explains it in detail.

  18. #198
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    did the math..$7783
    this includes everything (except install and shipping):
    -SDPC
    LS3 Crate Engine Assembly-$6650
    Billet LS2 Cable Operated TB-$360
    TB Bracket-$45
    L92 Oil Pan Gasket-$35.22
    L92 Water Pump Gasket (x2)-$8
    LS Balancer Bolt-$22
    O-Ring Seal for the Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube-$4.55
    -Lingenfelter
    58X/24X Reluctor Module Converter-$255
    -KATECH
    Injector Adapter-$100
    Cam & Knock Sensor Adapter-$60
    Map Sensor Adapter-$34
    -Thunder Racing
    Racetronix Pump System-$209

    2yr/24,000mile warranty

    ill proably go ahead and get a new Air Lid and ERG block off so that i can delete the AIR/ERG

    hey...its only money
    you can always earn more

    let me kno if i missed anything

  19. #199
    Member Jay37's Avatar
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    Do you really think that you can do the swap and that is your cost?

    When I was a lad and expressed a desire to race, I was told "son once you can take 1g out of your pocket, throw it in the fire, then throw another thousand into the fire, and not flinch, get yourself a race car." Yeah it's a strectch. But you never even said a budget any where here. Real budgets, real goals=real outcomes.


    With all respect basham, I'm not trying to be a d-bag, but I have young men come to me all the time with bull shit ass ideas and no money. They use to get all these dumb ideas at the "car cruise" now it's as easy as a click of the mouse. You need to learn things for yourself.

    I think everything discussed is very good stuff, but for YOU?

    Who is putting in the engine? Who is tuning it? Do you have an auto? If so you think it will hold up? You think your rearend will hold? Do you have the right gears? Do you have the tires that will supply enouph traction? Motor mounts? Fluids? Not to mention all the existing parts your going to find that need replacing... I always double the price on a biuld and it ussually is close.

  20. #200
    Member Jay37's Avatar
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    Could you entertain me, go to a shop, get a quote, then let us know what they say?

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