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  1. #1
    D_blaze D_blaze's Avatar
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    Black
    2000 S-10 Blazer

    LQ9/4 bottom end hold 500hp ???

    I have a 2000 s-10 Blaze with a 96 .040 over lt1 with ported and polished alum heads with 2.02in 1.60ex oversized stanless valves, beehive double valvesprings, Steel 1.52 roller rockers with a 502 lift 274 dir @ .50 cam, port matched intake with a twin 58mm throttlebody, and sanderson headers. It has a T-56 sixspeed trans with a 8.6 rear with a eaton p-track and 4.11's.

    I am going to try and build a 500 RWHP lq9/4 to put in D_Blaze. And I need some advice to get that motor built and built right. But on a budget. Momma won't let me have very much $.

    If i take and put ARP rod bolts and forged pistons in a stock bottom end of a LQ9/4, do you think it would hold 500rwhp?

    Any info is helpful. Thanks Dan
    Hi. My name is Dan and I'm a RWHP addict.

  2. #2
    Junior Member 65ls1's Avatar
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    red
    1965 chevelle 2drht ss

    lq4/lq9

    yes you can achieve that horsepower goal its just how you plan on doing that.You might want to clean up the heads a little with a port and polish and step up to a set of h beam rods I prefer manleys.You should also invest in a good camshaft,throddle body and intake!Headers also are a must.

  3. #3
    Junior Member 65ls1's Avatar
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    red
    1965 chevelle 2drht ss

    The crank will definately hold that kind of power.

  4. #4
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    2005 GTO M6 Black
    2000 Z28 A4 Red

    Car craft or Hot Rod (can't really remember which mag it was) made over 500 on an engine dyno with just a hot cam and a set of L92 heads. That will be the biggest bang for your buck. You can get the complete top end for about 1000 bucks including 40lb (if mempry serves right) injectors intake heads etc. Been following this build for a while. It was definately a budget build and made gobs of power.

  5. #5
    D_blaze D_blaze's Avatar
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    2000 S-10 Blazer

    Thanks for that info I will look in to that 500hp out of l92 heads and hotcam

  6. #6
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    SOM
    1998 T.A.

    l92 heads are the shizznitt. Too bad they don't work on a 3.90 bore. Damnit!!

  7. #7
    D_blaze D_blaze's Avatar
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    2000 S-10 Blazer

    Question Car Craft

    Quote Originally Posted by slims00ls1z28 View Post
    Car craft or Hot Rod (can't really remember which mag it was) made over 500 on an engine dyno with just a hot cam and a set of L92 heads. That will be the biggest bang for your buck. You can get the complete top end for about 1000 bucks including 40lb (if mempry serves right) injectors intake heads etc. Been following this build for a while. It was definately a budget build and made gobs of power.
    I found it in car craft and they were using a carb intake and 850cfm holly, If I was to go that route could i use a fast90/90 intake and TB or ls6 intake???

  8. #8
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    2005 GTO M6 Black
    2000 Z28 A4 Red

    I forgot about the carb thing. I'm sure the LS6 won't fit, it has the Cathedral ports wheras the L92/76/Ls7/3 have the rectangular ports. Dunno if FAST has something for it yet but with the LS3/7 I'm sure there is a L92 version out there. The L76 should make close to the same power as the carb intake just have to get aftermarket cable throttle body as the L76 is electronic. Straight from GM the L76 has injectors and rails already. Just need a tbody from there.

  9. #9
    D_blaze D_blaze's Avatar
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    Thanks Slim for all the info. You have opened my eyes to the L92's with the L76 and I think that is the way im going to go after reading that car craft build.

    They did leave stock bottom end internals in that 6.0. Later on down the road I might want to put a 100 shot on it. Do you think I should upgrade to forged stuff, or just stay with stock with some ARP bolts, with longevity and strenth in mind of course?

    Also cam, I am not driving it everyday but if needed want it to be drivable. HAS to have a healthy lope after tune though, what do you suggest?

    Thank again for all the info.
    Last edited by D_blaze; 12-28-2007 at 03:07 PM.

  10. #10
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    SOM
    1998 T.A.

    Quote Originally Posted by D_blaze View Post
    Thanks Slim for all the info. You have opened my eyes to the L92's with the L76 and I think that is the way im going to go after reading that car craft build.

    They did leave stock bottom end internals in that 6.0. Later on down the road I might want to put a 100 shot on it. Do you think I should upgrade to forged stuff, or just stay with stock with some ARP bolts, with longevity and strenth in mind of course?

    Also cam, I am not driving it everyday but if needed want it to be drivable. HAS to have a healthy lope after tune though, what do you suggest?

    Thank again for all the info.
    The crank will be fine. I am not speaking from personal experience but read a tech article a while back about how they are made (from powdered steel) and it said they were good to around 700 HP (I know, hard to believe).

    DON'T just change to ARP rod bolts. Even ARP doesn't recommend it. It changes the loading characteristics on the rod and the rods may have to be resized. Katech bolts can be directly swapped cause they are very close to the same weight (from what I have read) but I understand they are in short supply and hard to find. More $$$ than ARP too. A couple guys on LS1Tech attribute their rod knock to switching bolts but others report they have been fine with it. I was gonna swap mine with my upcoming H/C swap but have decided not to after reading this info. Just gonna make sure I don't spin over 6300-6400. That should keep me safe.

  11. #11
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    white
    96 99 01 chevy blazer 4dr

    hmm sound very good for a sleeper 4 dr blazer

  12. #12
    Senior Member slims00ls1z28's Avatar
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    2005 GTO M6 Black
    2000 Z28 A4 Red

    Quote Originally Posted by D_blaze View Post
    Thanks Slim for all the info. You have opened my eyes to the L92's with the L76 and I think that is the way im going to go after reading that car craft build.

    They did leave stock bottom end internals in that 6.0. Later on down the road I might want to put a 100 shot on it. Do you think I should upgrade to forged stuff, or just stay with stock with some ARP bolts, with longevity and strenth in mind of course?

    Also cam, I am not driving it everyday but if needed want it to be drivable. HAS to have a healthy lope after tune though, what do you suggest?

    Thank again for all the info.

    Me personally I'm keeping the Magic stick 3 that I currently have for it. As far as DD is concerned its actually what you can live with. The MS3 is quite radical. I could still sit at a stop light with the air on and it wouldn't quit, but it had a few issues such as low speed top gear surging stuff like that but I still drove it on the weekends to work (50 miles one way). With more cubes and better heads it will probably tame it some but I'm still hoping for some good numbers.

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