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Thread: Lq4/9 strocker or ls2
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08-16-2010, 06:47 PM #1
Lq4/9 strocker or ls2
To make it short and to the point:
I have a lq4 short block. Got it very cheap. ($300) Want to make a 408.
So machine shop 30 over stroker kit. Done!
Now to the questions:
First is it worth the $1000 more to get the ls2 block for the weight savings?
I know the l92 heads are a great budget head but is there anything else that has the cathedral ports on them?
Last any pointers people have would be great.
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08-16-2010, 06:55 PM #2
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- Thornton, CO
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Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
If you are having to pay retail for either block....then it is worth the extra 300.
But if it is gonna be a grand...go iron.2008 Trailblazer SS
Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
Lowered, HID's, tinted.
1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.
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08-16-2010, 07:01 PM #3
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08-17-2010, 03:31 PM #4
Are you planning on any power adders? Do you have a good machine shop to do the machine work? Once you add it up, you may be better off getting a complete shortblock from one of the reputable builders... If you aren't doing a power adder, I would go 402 with the aluminum block. Or even look into an L92 block with a 4 inch stroker...
GM EFI Tuner
2002 Trans Am WS6 - 9.41@143mph, #3675, on pump gas and drag radials - sold
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08-17-2010, 04:02 PM #5
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08-17-2010, 04:12 PM #6
Well, in that case, I'd go 408... Wiseco pistons, Eagle crank, Compstar rods.
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08-17-2010, 04:35 PM #7
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08-17-2010, 04:57 PM #8
88 pounds? Ha Ha Ha it's a LOT more than that! I have an LQ9 408 and I wish almost every day that I had gone with the aluminum block.
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08-17-2010, 05:52 PM #9
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08-17-2010, 06:36 PM #10
I'd go iron all day long. I like the fact they can be bored, and if you save a little, there will be something left for another rebuild down the road.
Don't care for the aluminum, a hone and it's done. Resleeving is too expensive. Don't care about the weight, that's been debated before.
If you are talking about the factory iron blocks, there was a comparison of bare blocks a while back, and the difference was only 65 lbs. Only when you get into the LSX blocks does the weight difference become significant.
You can make up the weight difference easily, with a tubular K-member which takes almost exactly 60 lbs. off the nose. There are other things that can be done as well. Hell that's only the difference between a fat chick or a skinny chick in the passenger seat So I wouldn't sweat it unless you are NHRA class racing.
As far as the LS3 style heads, I'm still not all that impressed with them. The exhaust side still sucks, which is why they need a cam with a 15 degree duration split to make power. In stock form they only flow 300-315 cfm on the intake side. Not that great when you look at the size of the ports, about a 260cc intake runner, and they are still a 15 degree head. You can get that out of a set of cathedral port 15 degree heads with only a 200-220 cc intake runner.
What are you wanting to spend on heads?
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08-17-2010, 06:45 PM #11
If I can make a decent time on the track I would like to go cheap as hell. thus asking about the l92 head.
Other wise I know to go fast heads have a big part in it and I understand that 2 grand will go quick on a used set.
About the weight with the blocks I am not class racing I just want a fun track/street TOY! I would like to see a 10.99 run n/a in the next two - three years
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08-17-2010, 06:57 PM #12
If you want to go cheap, then those L92's are probably going to be the head for you.
If it were me, I'd do the iron block, and take that money saved and spend that on a FAST setup for those L92 heads. You can find other ways to remove 60-80lbs. out of the car easy enough.
Your ET is doable. Plenty of streetable 402/408's out there running well into the 10's on motor only.
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08-17-2010, 07:16 PM #13
My complete engine, heads, accessories, etc was over 120 pounds over the stock complete engine. In other words what I put in was 120+ pounds heavier than what I took out. I did the k member, upper and lower control arms, battery relocation (trunk), and AC delete.
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08-18-2010, 07:48 AM #14
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2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
If you're trying for just barely in the 10s, I think you've got that setup now. Frost was pretty sure my car would break the into the 10s if I had a nice tire and a sub 1.70sec 60'.
You're running an automatic, a stall and a soon to be much lighter car...we really need to go to the track before you start blowing money on this new engine.
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08-18-2010, 08:06 AM #15
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08-18-2010, 11:11 AM #16
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2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
You're on stock heads? Wow, I thought you had upgraded those. I'm already thinking of new heads for Nymph, so if you were interested and our time tables line up, I could sell you mine.
I need to give you a list of stuff I want/need...you seem to be better at finding deals than me. The problem is that we're heading in the same direction, so we want the same parts.
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08-18-2010, 11:18 AM #17
You have the 5.3 heads right? If so I can't run those w/o flycutting. My PTV is already tooooo close as it is. I haven't decided what heads I want to run yet.
Now don't get me wrong I did clean up my stock heads myself. Doubt it did anything but who knows.
Give me a list of parts you are looking for and I will put them on my list of things to buy. You are a lot more further than I am with the mods though so I doubt we'll be looking for the same things.
Side note to the locals. Anyone serious about getting a 9" in the next 6 months? I just got off the phone with MWC a little bit ago. With a small number of people we can save a decent amount. And considering shipping would be either free or close to it due to my full time job
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08-18-2010, 12:55 PM #18
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08-18-2010, 12:57 PM #19
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2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
I'm not THAT far along. We're at the same stage of weight reduction and front suspension though.
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08-18-2010, 12:58 PM #20
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