lots of work...any tips?

[jmatt07]

i have a 98 ss m6. i am installing an 85mm bbk intake and tb. prc stage 2.5 5.3L heads, 228r cam, new springs, pushrods, retainers,etc.. also bought pacesetter longtube headers ory. hsw single nozzle dry nitrous kit. already have slp intake k&n and slp loudmouth exhaust, slp maf. IM going to be doing all of this at one time. If anyone has any hints or tips or little tricks to make installing any of this stuff any easier let me know PLEASE!! im not sure how long its gonna take to do this. ill have my brother and my dad helping me out with it too. Any tips or advice would be very appreciated....Thanks

[ls1camino]

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

[mark21742]

with the right tools and the three of you going at it, 1-2 weekends.
do you have a tuner program like hptuners?
get a (head on motor) valve spring compresser, grind the tabs off of the hand crank, knock the hand crank wheel off, tap a 3/8" drive 12 point 15mm socket on where the handle went, then tack weld it in place......this makes spring swaps so quick and easy

[UTVols98]

APR ROD BOLTS at least on the bottom end and I'd recommend new bearings too.

The bottom end of the 98 blocks are crap. Even if you still do the rod bolts. I wouldn't spin that thing past 6k if you don't want to be building another engine. Especially if you're gonna be spraying it.

LS7 lifters
new lifter trays (prevent the lifters from spinning)
LS2 timing chain
new timing gears with older motors with high mileage
LS6 oil pump
UD pulley (not needed but will help give it a little more horsepower and spin the motor up faster, plus the balancer will be off anyways)

If your car has a lot of miles on it (over 80k) replace anything you can. You will have to replace the balancer bolt and head bolts. Those you can't reuse. Gaskets on the timing cover, cam bearing, ect.... It'll help it last longer especially if your spraying.

I highly recommend you do a wet kit instead, but if your doing the dry, you'll definitely need larger injectors and fuel pump. Last thing you'll want to do is lean out the engine (especially on a dry kit). Install a wideband to monitor the motor when spraying so you can shut it down before it leans out too far.

And last, a 12 bolt rear end. Especially with a manual if your gonna be racing it at the track. With the new power from the head/cam swap and the spray, it'll be just a matter of time before that 10 bolt rear end is toast.

There is a couple more things you can do, but this is the basics to build a reliable car.