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knock knock...who's there? wait...engine knock...

This is a discussion on knock knock...who's there? wait...engine knock... within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; sorry op......

  1. #21
    Impounded
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    sorry op...

  2. #22
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    no problem, fellas....

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  4. #24
    Member Jay37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    spun rod bearing(s). bent pushrods won't deposit metal shavings in your oil, sorry.

    pull it and rebuild it. i did and its easy. bout $500 if you do it yourself.
    plus 1
    RUDE, CRUDE, AND SOCIABLY UNACCEPTABLE.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay37 View Post
    plus 1
    Where can you find a COMPLETE rebuild kit with everything for that price. A re-ring kit sure but a set with the pistons and cam bearings along with a new cam is easily 900 bucks alone. I wouldnt recommend keeping the stock pistons either. Ls motors have piston slap since new so putting the same loose pistons back in with a lot of miles on them is usually not good. People almost always go with .010 over pistons that way they make sure the bores are uniform, straight and have a good solid fit.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Where can you find a COMPLETE rebuild kit with everything for that price. A re-ring kit sure but a set with the pistons and cam bearings along with a new cam is easily 900 bucks alone. I wouldnt recommend keeping the stock pistons either. Ls motors have piston slap since new so putting the same loose pistons back in with a lot of miles on them is usually not good. People almost always go with .010 over pistons that way they make sure the bores are uniform, straight and have a good solid fit.

    summit racing sells the kit with pistons for 600.....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...ComboContents/

    but it says for 97-98 ls1....hmm

  7. #27
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I've sen that kit before the gaskets that it brings are cheap paper ones just like the picture and not the rubber o-ring type that stock. PLus they dont have a kit for 99-up which means you would still need to get different head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. also the kit doesnt include head bolt, valley cover gasket, exhaust gaskets, or manifold gaskets.. it shows them in the pic but if you look at the kit content they say they arent included.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Where can you find a COMPLETE rebuild kit with everything for that price. A re-ring kit sure but a set with the pistons and cam bearings along with a new cam is easily 900 bucks alone. I wouldnt recommend keeping the stock pistons either. Ls motors have piston slap since new so putting the same loose pistons back in with a lot of miles on them is usually not good. People almost always go with .010 over pistons that way they make sure the bores are uniform, straight and have a good solid fit.
    who said anything about a 'complete' rebuild kit? it's owners discrestion on if new pistons maybe be needed. once you tear down the block and see what you're working with, then you will know what you need.

    while certain parts are needed new for a rebuild, others are not. if the rings are good, reuse them. there is nothing that says YOU HAVE to replace. if the cam bearings are good, REUSE THEM, you have to check all the tolerances and clearances.

    no, its not doing anything 2nd hand or a hack job, but you dont have to spend more money than you need to, or do more work that necessary to rebuild an engine.

    if you prefer to rebuild by purchasing every part new, then that is your route and your choice, but not mine. at the end of the day, a running Ls1 with no issues is a running Ls1 with no issues. if i achieve the same goal as you and spend $500 while you feel it necessary to spend $1200, then that is the route i will go. i only fix what needs fixing, and not spend extra money for a false sense of security or piece of mind.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    who said anything about a 'complete' rebuild kit? it's owners discrestion on if new pistons maybe be needed. once you tear down the block and see what you're working with, then you will know what you need.

    while certain parts are needed new for a rebuild, others are not. if the rings are good, reuse them. there is nothing that says YOU HAVE to replace. if the cam bearings are good, REUSE THEM, you have to check all the tolerances and clearances.

    no, its not doing anything 2nd hand or a hack job, but you dont have to spend more money than you need to, or do more work that necessary to rebuild an engine.

    if you prefer to rebuild by purchasing every part new, then that is your route and your choice, but not mine. at the end of the day, a running Ls1 with no issues is a running Ls1 with no issues. if i achieve the same goal as you and spend $500 while you feel it necessary to spend $1200, then that is the route i will go. i only fix what needs fixing, and not spend extra money for a false sense of security or piece of mind.
    IIRC his engine has 100k on it it idk about you but if Im going to tear down a motor for lets say a spun rod bearing you better believe that motor is going to get all new bearings and rings. After 100k the engine is going to show signs of wear like it or not so if the whole thing is apart its silly to not spend the extra 400 and put the new cam bearing in it along with the rings. The pistons may or may not need to be replaced but they usually come with a master rebuild kit. If that motor did spin a bearing there maybe ,metal fragments in the oil passages that would recirculate into the rotating assembly when its put back together so a hot tank wouldnt be a bad idea. IMO if the motor has 100k on it would dumb not do a total rebuild just because it looks ok doesnt mean its not worn. I suppose it could be done for 500 bucks but it would kinda be a low cut job....

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    IIRC his engine has 100k on it it idk about you but if Im going to tear down a motor for lets say a spun rod bearing you better believe that motor is going to get all new bearings and rings. After 100k the engine is going to show signs of wear like it or not so if the whole thing is apart its silly to not spend the extra 400 and put the new cam bearing in it along with the rings. The pistons may or may not need to be replaced but they usually come with a master rebuild kit. If that motor did spin a bearing there maybe ,metal fragments in the oil passages that would recirculate into the rotating assembly when its put back together so a hot tank wouldnt be a bad idea. IMO if the motor has 100k on it would dumb not do a total rebuild just because it looks ok doesnt mean its not worn. I suppose it could be done for 500 bucks but it would kinda be a low cut job....
    understand, im not objecting to your approach, im offering a different one.

    you are basing all this off assumption, not facts. no one knows until the engine is broke down, and everyone knows every rebuild is not the same. it is also your opinion it would be 'dumb' not to do a total rebuild. again, not factual. i suppose i am of the mind set to spend what only needs to be spent and fix what only needs fixing. but that doesnt mean the end result would be of inferior quality just because i spent less money.

    in my case/experience, i rebuilt the engine in my old '98 Ws6 that had 4 spun rod bearings in it (bought the car not running, 66k). cam bearings still good, rings and pistons good, cross-hatching still on the cylinder walls. flushed the block and heads to remove fragments/crap.

    i bought a set of Federal Mougal rod bearings, polished the crank journals (all still within tol./clear. specs), new head bolts, new gaskets (oil pan, head, water, valve, exhaust manifold, etc.) for right around $500. it can be done.

    got it back in the car, and started right up no issues, no leaks, no problems. still runs like a raped ape too.

  11. #31
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    might as well get it all in one sweep.. do it right the first time

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    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    might as well get it all in one sweep.. do it right the first time
    you could to that. you can do everything by the book, buy and spend money on every new part needed and still have the engine crap out. these cars, these engines its a crap shoot. everyone knows this: you gotta pay to play...

  13. #33
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    understand, im not objecting to your approach, im offering a different one.

    you are basing all this off assumption, not facts. no one knows until the engine is broke down, and everyone knows every rebuild is not the same. it is also your opinion it would be 'dumb' not to do a total rebuild. again, not factual. i suppose i am of the mind set to spend what only needs to be spent and fix what only needs fixing. but that doesnt mean the end result would be of inferior quality just because i spent less money.

    in my case/experience, i rebuilt the engine in my old '98 Ws6 that had 4 spun rod bearings in it (bought the car not running, 66k). cam bearings still good, rings and pistons good, cross-hatching still on the cylinder walls. flushed the block and heads to remove fragments/crap.

    i bought a set of Federal Mougal rod bearings, polished the crank journals (all still within tol./clear. specs), new head bolts, new gaskets (oil pan, head, water, valve, exhaust manifold, etc.) for right around $500. it can be done.

    got it back in the car, and started right up no issues, no leaks, no problems. still runs like a raped ape too.
    See that is different though if the engine only had 65k on it like yours thats still a relatively low mileage engine and I would support just a rering if everything checked out so i agree with you there.... However at 100k things are getting worn out and skipping things like rings and cam bearings would not be advisable by any machine shop maybe not "dumb" but it certainly wouldnt be a smart move if the budget allowed for an extra 400 bucks. However if you had no other choice it could be done, would it be inferior to a complete rebuild? I still say yes and I'm sure others would agree as parts would certainly show wear and would have a shorter lifespan than all new parts. When I said 1k I assumed that all the main parts would be fine ie. the crank, rods, etc. So no I'm not sure of what the engine would need but once again at that mileage I would atleast do the stuff I mentioned just as a precaution and prevent future rebuilds...

    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    might as well get it all in one sweep.. do it right the first time
    Exactly my point. The op was looking at crate motors so 1k for a rebuild shouldnt even be a question as opposed to a 500 dollar bare bones job. Basham did you find a motor yet lol

  14. #34
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    well im changin the oil today and see what happens....if a new engine is needed, i wont fool with rebuilding this one....i will buy the ls1 crate for $2600, slap a cam in there and be done with it....i dont care to be the fastest car around, besides, id like a new paintjob soon so i dont wanna put all my money into the engine.

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    i'll buy your complete longblock ls1 engine thats in your car for $100...

    i'll even drive down to H-town and help you pull it!

  16. #36
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    ha! i gotta use that for the core charge...

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    well im changin the oil today and see what happens....if a new engine is needed, i wont fool with rebuilding this one....i will buy the ls1 crate for $2600, slap a cam in there and be done with it....i dont care to be the fastest car around, besides, id like a new paintjob soon so i dont wanna put all my money into the engine.
    If you have an auto and you want to cam it youd need to count a stall in there somewhere atleast a 3200 or else you want see much of anything from the cam swap and it wont be much fun to drive...
    Last edited by redbird555; 04-20-2011 at 06:04 PM.

  18. #38
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    not to mention ur tranny will maybe take a dump after the new engine...
    that is if you get a new engine and not rebuild

  19. #39
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    of course i will get a stall...and if the tranny craps out, then ill get a new one of those too....

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    well im changin the oil today and see what happens....if a new engine is needed, i wont fool with rebuilding this one....i will buy the ls1 crate for $2600, slap a cam in there and be done with it....i dont care to be the fastest car around, besides, id like a new paintjob soon so i dont wanna put all my money into the engine.
    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    of course i will get a stall...and if the tranny craps out, then ill get a new one of those too....
    good man im contemplating on one for my car this summer to go along with the ls6 motor... do you know what gears you car has? 2.73s or 3.23s?

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