How much Spray can the stock crank hold?

**HotRodV6** · 09-27-2005, 10:39 AM

Ok, im buidling a 6.0L LQ9 fo rmy Sonoma GT, i want to run a 4.030 bore, 6.125 rod and a 4in stroker crank, but my problem is i dont think im going to have the dough to get the stroker crank right now, so im stuck with the stock 6.0L LQ9/LS6 crank(heard they use the same crank) which is 3.62 stroke if i recall.

So i also want to spray the engine with a 200 shot direct port, and want to know what the stock crnak can take on a regular basis without worry.

I also will be auto, 3500 stall and 4.10 geasr, in a ~3000 pound 92 GMC Sonoma GT(reg cab S-10).

The rest of the engine will be LS1 hot cam, stock LS6 heads, around 11.1 CR, 2.02 or 2.05/1.60 stainless valves, comp 26918 springs, ti retainers, comp pro mag 1.85 rockers, probably a stock LS6 intake and 90mm TB.

Tuning will be with HP Tuners, and im also looking for a rough guestimate of what you guys think the RWHP will be, and if you think this is a good combo.

Oh, and i also plan to run the billet main caps and arp head and main studs, and probably the Katech ported and blueprinted oil pump, and the 6.0L oil pan and pick up.

Thanks for your help, always appreciated. Im not a newb to engine building, but new to the Gen 3 engine.

Rhino21149 · 09-27-2005, 01:23 PM

[QUOTE=HotRodV6] So i also want to spray the engine with a 200 shot direct port, and want to know what the stock crnak can take on a regular basis without worry.QUOTE]

Well, we had a stock bottom end modified so it gave about 400 RWHP and a 150-175 shot of nitrous. It lasted through three of four dyno sessions (585 Ft lbs of torque and for about 3000 miles (and roughly 12-15 hard 1/4 mile passes, and then came apart rather spectacularly at the 1/8th mile marker one night, on its way to what was a mid 10 run, we felt. It was either a rod or the crank, but based on the the little that was left to look at, I suspected a crank went.

There was absolutely nothing left below the heads that was useable, so its an expensive way to save a few $$$.

**Liquifire** · 09-27-2005, 10:03 PM

not the way to go in my opinion.....with that much hp and torque you should save up the money and get a forged bottom end.....it will save you money in the long run.

**HotRodV6** · 09-27-2005, 11:07 PM

Well, i plan to run good forged pistons and rods, but maybe a 200 shot is alittle much for the stock crank.

Thanks for the feedback.

**MadSeason** · 09-28-2005, 03:43 AM

Just curious here, not to familiar with NO5, but when running it don't you want an ideally lower compression like when a motor is blown? 11:1 is pretty nice for N/A engines though. GL with your build

Rhino21149 · 09-28-2005, 06:18 AM

Originally Posted by MadSeason

Just curious here, not to familiar with NO5, but when running it don't you want an ideally lower compression like when a motor is blown? 11:1 is pretty nice for N/A engines though. GL with your build

We're running 11.5:1 in a forged 408 with a big shot of nitrous. Works okay. I'm not a NOS expert, but I thought itactually helped avoid detonation (at least I know the coooling effect does) so I don't think it is critical to lower compression ratio for it.

**HotRodV6** · 09-28-2005, 07:09 AM

Originally Posted by MadSeason

Just curious here, not to familiar with NO5, but when running it don't you want an ideally lower compression like when a motor is blown? 11:1 is pretty nice for N/A engines though. GL with your build

Well, yes with a blower you want lower CR to run more boost to keep detonation down, but with N2O, because it is so cold when it enters the engine, it has a super cooling affect and actually likes a higher CR, with a good tune and 11.25 lets say CR youll get more power from a "100" shot jetting than you would with say 9:1 or even 10:1 CR.

The key is having a good tune and using a wideband to keep tabs on the A/F ratio and also an EGT guage.

**HotRodV6** · 09-28-2005, 07:12 AM

Well, i am going to try and get the forged 4 in stroker crank, i have got a crank at all yet, and if i have everything else to get the build going, im sure i can find a stock crank pretty easy, but i want to fully build a forged and bulet proof bottom end now and then i can always upgrade the heads down the road if needed.

**JMBLOWNWS6** · 09-28-2005, 10:26 AM

Many forged guys including me use the stock crank. It has been used in motors round 800-900 hp. Harlan pushed his to 1000 hp.

Rhino21149 · 09-28-2005, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by HotRodV6

. . . and if i have everything else to get the build going, im sure i can find a stock crank pretty easy . . . .

If you really have everything but the crankshaft, are you sure the pistons and rods you have (machined for the stroker) will fit the stock crank? The rod and pistons for your stroker are made to fit a 4" stroke, not a stock stroke. I'd be surprised if it would even work, so I don't think you have an option.

**Liquifire** · 09-28-2005, 11:10 PM

Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6

Many forged guys including me use the stock crank. It has been used in motors round 800-900 hp. Harlan pushed his to 1000 hp.

the stock crank as noted above is usually good for that amount. Many sponsors and other people on this site have noted that HP range as OK for the crank only.......not pistons or rods, though.

Rhino21149 · 09-29-2005, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by Liquifire

.......not pistons or rods, though.

My point was that the pistons and rods he says he has for the stroker won't fit with the stock crank anyway. If you have stock crank and stock rods and pistons then - well okay (assuming the bore is exactly the same). But then you have a stock bottom end - ugh?

But if you have pistons and rods for the stroker, the rod length and the position of the piston pin on the piston as set up for the 4" stroke and the will not fit in the block with a stock crank throw.