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Help after H&C install???

This is a discussion on Help after H&C install??? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I finished up installing 243 heads and a 228/232 cam in my 99 A4 t/a this past wkend. The car ...

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    Help after H&C install???

    I finished up installing 243 heads and a 228/232 cam in my 99 A4 t/a this past wkend. The car started up and idled as I allowed it to get to operating temp and added coolant (per ls1howto.com instructions). Then I shut the car off to reinstall the radiator cap and went to start it again, but the car continues to stall unless I give it some gas. I tried cleaning the CAI today and got the car to idle, with occasional surges. Once I put it into gear though, the car died again and it won't idle anymore (basically I am back to where I was yesterday).

    Does it sound like the IAC needs to be replaced or could it be another issue?

    I know I need a tune and have one scheduled for next wk, but I want to make sure everything is ok before I go there.

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    USMC Y2K_CAMARO's Avatar
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    Its probably just your tune. After my cam install, I had trouble keeping my car from stalling. After my tune, no problems at all.

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    tune, what stall do you have?

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    You need a tune.

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    Ok, I was just wanting to make sure a tune would solve the issue and that there wasn't something I did wrong or misinstalled. Currently it has the stock stall, I know I am leaving some of the acceleration on the table. But still not sure if I want to do a built auto or swap to a manual.

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    You're leaving a lot more than "acceleration" on the table using a stock stall with a cam that size. Even with a tune, it's going to try and pull through the brakes every time you stop. Driveability is going to suck until you get a stall, no matter who tunes the car.

    I never recommend going over a 226 duration cam on a stock stall.

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    Stay automatic Get that stock stall out of there.

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    Just put it in 2nd instead of first at lights

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    What kind of stall do you recommend? The car is not a track car, nor is it a DD, just more for fun on the streets. I was worried about long drives on the highway with a stall.

    Oh and I did end up having to order a new IAC, the old one wasn't moving.
    Last edited by peterlawl84; 04-20-2010 at 05:21 PM.

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlawl84 View Post
    What kind of stall do you recommend? The car is not a track car, nor is it a DD, just more for fun on the streets. I was worried about long drives on the highway with a stall.

    Oh and I did end up having to order a new IAC, the old one wasn't moving.
    3200-4000, Our stalls lock up so highway driving rpm's remain the same, city driving will be where you will notice it. Ask your cam company what they recommend. Make up your mind on which trans you want. Keeping the trans cool prolongs it's longevity but a local broke his stock trans within a month.

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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    3200-4000, Our stalls lock up so highway driving rpm's remain the same, city driving will be where you will notice it. Ask your cam company what they recommend. Make up your mind on which trans you want. Keeping the trans cool prolongs it's longevity but a local broke his stock trans within a month.
    Yea I've heard different ppl recommend different ones...some say they can't stand 3600 while others say definately go 4000...But I will try and contact TR and see what they say. I was also considering waiting and seeing where the power is on the dyno tune and going from there. The cooler is already on my list of things to get done though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlawl84 View Post
    Yea I've heard different ppl recommend different ones...some say they can't stand 3600 while others say definately go 4000...But I will try and contact TR and see what they say. I was also considering waiting and seeing where the power is on the dyno tune and going from there. The cooler is already on my list of things to get done though.
    You will have to drop more money to re-tune it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlawl84 View Post
    ...some say they can't stand 3600 while others say definately go 4000...
    I've never lived with a high-stall car, but I get the impression it would be like driving a clutch car but always revving the motor to 3600-4000 before letting out the clutch. [So much for laying low when that cop is across the intersection from you!]

    Also, while on the highway these cars cruise below 2000. With a 3600 stall, does it drive like you always have to "pulse" it forward and coast down or will it drive at a steady pace while you are that far under the stall?
    What is the stock stall?
    Let's hear from someone who is living with a 3600 RPM stall!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    I've never lived with a high-stall car, but I get the impression it would be like driving a clutch car but always revving the motor to 3600-4000 before letting out the clutch. [So much for laying low when that cop is across the intersection from you!]

    Also, while on the highway these cars cruise below 2000. With a 3600 stall, does it drive like you always have to "pulse" it forward and coast down or will it drive at a steady pace while you are that far under the stall?
    What is the stock stall?
    Let's hear from someone who is living with a 3600 RPM stall!
    In a very basic explanation (feel free to make corrections), the torque converters in 4th gen have computer-controlled, speed-based lockup. The lockup will fully engage the engine and transmission no matter what the stall speed is. Tuning software can adjust what speed the lockup occurs. When they aren't locked up, they are similar to a clutch that's allowed to slip beneath the rated stall speed. Higher stall speeds allow the engine to get into the meat of the power band faster. The downside to a higher stall speed is more heat, which is why a trans cooler is required.

    I believe stock converters stall at around 1800 RPM's. Stock automatics don't have to rev to 1800 rpm's to get moving. They move as soon as as you release the brakes. Higher stall speeds will move off-idle with a light throttle, but do not have to be rev'd to stall to get going.

    Higher stall speeds will have little effect on highway cruise MPG's. Low speed cruise MPG below the lockup will be affected somewhat depending on where the lockup is set.

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    Didn't realize the hi-stall converters had lockup. -Thanks

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    Ok so Damian was correct. I finally got the new IAC motor and was able to drive around today and the car was trying to pull thru the brakes everytime I was trying to stop. I ordered a yank 3600 stall, and was told I can still get it tuned tomorrow, just need to have him adjust the lock-up settings while he is in there, so I won't necessarily need a retune. And the trans cooler is on the way as well.

    Thanks for everyone's help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peterlawl84 View Post
    Ok so Damian was correct. I finally got the new IAC motor and was able to drive around today and the car was trying to pull thru the brakes everytime I was trying to stop. I ordered a yank 3600 stall, and was told I can still get it tuned tomorrow, just need to have him adjust the lock-up settings while he is in there, so I won't necessarily need a retune. And the trans cooler is on the way as well.

    Thanks for everyone's help.
    your gunna love it once its all buttoned up

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