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H/C/I...breaking in and tuning questions

This is a discussion on H/C/I...breaking in and tuning questions within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I'm doing serious modifications to my baby this winter and I had some questions before I get too far into ...

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    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    H/C/I...breaking in and tuning questions

    I'm doing serious modifications to my baby this winter and I had some questions before I get too far into it. My mods are these:

    Ported 5.3L Heads (milled to 60cc)
    Torquer V.2 Cam
    LS6 Intake
    38# Injectors
    LS7 Lifters
    PRC Double Valve Springs
    and all other supporting mods

    I was wondering...

    When I'm done putting everything together what should be my course of action? I was planning on not even starting the car, towing it down to Richmond, and having Frost tune it right away. BUT...the cam install booklet that came with my cam says I should "break in" the cam for 30 minutes at 2000-2500rpms. The problem is that I'm bumping the compression up a little and increasing the injector size to a point that I'm afraid I'll run into predetonation without a tune.

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    Member stephen02ws6's Avatar
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    as far as i know there really isnt a break in on roller cams. i plan on just running through a couple heat cycles to be safe. in your instance with the injectors i dont know if i would run it too much if you dont have to.

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    Member Justin93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    I'm doing serious modifications to my baby this winter and I had some questions before I get too far into it. My mods are these:

    Ported 5.3L Heads (milled to 60cc)
    Torquer V.2 Cam
    LS6 Intake
    38# Injectors
    LS7 Lifters
    PRC Double Valve Springs
    and all other supporting mods

    I was wondering...

    When I'm done putting everything together what should be my course of action? I was planning on not even starting the car, towing it down to Richmond, and having Frost tune it right away. BUT...the cam install booklet that came with my cam says I should "break in" the cam for 30 minutes at 2000-2500rpms. The problem is that I'm bumping the compression up a little and increasing the injector size to a point that I'm afraid I'll run into predetonation without a tune.

    If your worried about it have frost do a mail order on it just to get it up and running drive it a hundred miles or so and change the oil. Thats what I did and it runs great not issues so far minus a messed up oil press sending unit. I have the same heads milled to 59cc and no issues, I also went with the colder ngk tr6 plugs. Im getting mine tuned this weekend so hopefully no issues will arise.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    No break in.

    Heat cycle the valvesprings a time or two before spinning up, but otherwise....drive the hell out of it.
    Obviously, don't beat on a cold motor though.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    unless its VERY bad, any predetonation should be pickedup by the knock sensors and timing should get retarded back below knock. but that said, I'd call frost and ask his opinion on pretune driving

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    Member Bouvers's Avatar
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    I was curious about this to, I was thinking that the second I start my car up for the first time after the build is completely that I would have the local LS1 guru stand by to give it a quick tune before then taking it for some real time WOT tuning... best course of action?

  7. #7
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    You can always send the PCM to me. Go through checkout for mail-order tuning. When the car comes here to be tuned in-person, we take off $100 off of the full price of tuning (basically you get back 100 of the 125 that you pay). The mail order tune will get you up and running and let you get some miles on it to make sure all of the little things are taken care of.

    -Steve

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    I would think that even if there was some detonation, at those rpms it wouldnt be too severe

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Sorry to Highjack here...

    So some of you are running the V.2 with 5.3's... milled to 60cc? Do you have the larger valves?

    TSp told me that I would PROBABLY run into PTV problems with the v.2, larger valves and ANY milling.

    I was ready to buy two nights ago and found out I might not be able to run the V.2 without flycutting. That aint gonna happen. Really want the V.2

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    Build in progress...

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    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Sorry to Highjack here...

    So some of you are running the V.2 with 5.3's... milled to 60cc? Do you have the larger valves?

    TSp told me that I would PROBABLY run into PTV problems with the v.2, larger valves and ANY milling.

    I was ready to buy two nights ago and found out I might not be able to run the V.2 without flycutting. That aint gonna happen. Really want the V.2

    LQ4 6.0
    I have not had anyone tell me that it will not work...even with my milled heads, everyone on LS1Tech told me that I would be fine.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    The ONLY way to determine piston to valve clearance is to MEASURE!!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    I have not had anyone tell me that it will not work...even with my milled heads, everyone on LS1Tech told me that I would be fine.
    Call TSP and talk to Jon reynolds, He's the guy that helped me with my setup, he will be able to tell you for sure as they sell a buch of those 59cc heads and install them as well. Even if he says its ok Still measure them or atleast do the clay test as I did. Its extra insurance.

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