Got a couple LT1 cam install questons

[98-LS1]

First of all, is it absolutely neccessary to change the valve springs on a LT1 when installing a bigger cam? Such as a LS1? Also, what is the proper way of adjusting the valves cold after a cam install and before firing the motor? I can't remember exactly how it's done, been a while. I'd like to have the valves adjusted so I don't have to with it running in the car, I hate getting oil everywhere and dealing with taking the valve covers off in the car. Thanks

[Street Lethal]

First of all, is it absolutely neccessary to change the valve springs on a LT1 when installing a bigger cam? Such as a LS1? Also, what is the proper way of adjusting the valves cold after a cam install and before firing the motor? I can't remember exactly how it's done, been a while. I'd like to have the valves adjusted so I don't have to with it running in the car, I hate getting oil everywhere and dealing with taking the valve covers off in the car. Thanks

Depends on the size of the cam...

Being that it's becoming harder and harder to find an LT1 with relatively low miles... we'll assume that the engine has 50k+ on it. With higher mileage, even with a slightly bigger cam, you're definitely going to want to change the valve springs, regardless.

I would use this as an excuse to take both of the heads off, clean the carbon out the combustion chambers (along with the tops of the pistons), re-seat the valves for a better seal, and install a fresh set of head gaskets. This alone will work wonders on how the engine performs...

Adjusting the valves is easy. Start from cylinder one, with the piston being at top dead center... then tighten down each corresponding rocker arm. You're looking to eliminate the play in the pushrod. When the play has been eliminated, but the pushrod is still slightly moveable, tighten down the rocker arm 1/2 turn to finalize.

After both rocker arms, in relation to cylinder one, have been completed.... rotate the engine to bring the number eight cylinder to top dead center, and repeat. I'm sure you know the firing order already, but I'll post it anyway, just in case someone reading this doesn't; 18436572

Edit: To help speed up the process, after cylinder one has been completed, without rotating the engine, you can start on cylinder six (which, although is on a different stroke cycle, is already at TDC). Then rotate the engine and start on cylinder 8, and continue in the very same manner til completed. Should take you half as long...

[98-LS1]

Thanks! I could not remember how to do that for nothing. I think I will remove the heads and clean it out, might as well since I have to put new valve springs on. Any recommended head gaskets that hold up good? I'm learning alot about these motors, it's amazing how different they are from a traditional small block. I'm going to install a new opti while I'm doing a cam swap too because from what I've read these tend to pose problems from time to time. The motor has 68,000 miles, was told 88,000 but Bobby looked at the odometer and it was 68,000. It runs really strong and is clean for a 95 model so I'm going to cam it and throw it in my LS1 project car until I get my LS6 built. I'm just dying to drive my car, I'm sure some of you know that feeling!

[Street Lethal]

Thanks! I could not remember how to do that for nothing. I think I will remove the heads and clean it out, might as well since I have to put new valve springs on. Any recommended head gaskets that hold up good?

If you're only changing the cam, stock head gaskets will be absolutely fine. Rather than wait patiently for shipping (referring to aftermarket), you can pick up stockers at you're local Pep Boys...

I'm learning alot about these motors, it's amazing how different they are from a traditional small block. I'm going to install a new opti while I'm doing a cam swap too because from what I've read these tend to pose problems from time to time.

Yeah, their reverse coolant flow engine's. If you're going to install a new optispark, do not get an aftermarket piece. Again, go with a factory piece... have heard some terrible things regarding aftermarket opti's, especially MSD's.

It runs really strong and is clean for a 95 model so I'm going to cam it and throw it in my LS1 project car until I get my LS6 built.

If you're going to throw a cam in there, don't go too radical, you don't need the headache of tuning something too big. If you're eventually going to put it in you're LS6, then it serves no purpose in going with a custom grind as well. If I were you, I'd look for a used (but good) CC-305, or CC-306 (if the CC-305 isn't big enough for ya).

Good luck!

[98-LS1]

Thanks for your help, the cam was a 228/230 on a 112 LSA which was recommended by the comp cams tech. Hopefully it won't be too big being this was selected for a stock LT1. I'm just going to run this motor while the LS6 is being built since the LS1 project is a costly and time consuming conversion. I'm just dying to drive this car with this new suspension and 6-speed!

[Street Lethal]

..the cam was a 228/230 on a 112 LSA which was recommended by the comp cams tech.

Sounds like a very good recommendation. Curious though, what is the cam's lift, and advance?

[98-LS1]

I can't remember off the top of my head but I'll look at the spec sheet and post it later after work.