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Getting cam, need install tips

This is a discussion on Getting cam, need install tips within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; lt1- yes swap the water pump. ls1- no. My friend has 235,000 miles on his original ls1 water pump...

  1. #21
    Member Z28LS1's Avatar
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    lt1- yes swap the water pump. ls1- no. My friend has 235,000 miles on his original ls1 water pump

  2. #22
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Cool, you just saved me some dough. Thanks

    The oil pump is a no brainer, but I wasn't sure about water pump. So far no problems so I'll keep it.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if you pull your condensor and rad it will give you a lot of room, then you can pickup 134a refridgerant cans from any autoparts store and recharge it yourself......i paid $24 for a large can with hose and gauge, read the instructions and its simple to do.
    its a shame you don't live closer, I work for beer
    If I understand the post correctly, do not disconnect the ac lines from the condensor and just add refrigerant. Air turns corrosive inside an ac system. If you have do this, cap off the end lines when you remove it and when you reinstall the system vacuum it down before adding freon.

    Officialy I've heard you don't have to reclaim 134 so you can bleed it to atmostphere, but don't quote me on that. Just keep clear when you bleed it. You can get frostbite from the escaping refrigerant and you're not supposed to breath the stuff either.

    I would guess it's going to take a couple of pounds to fill the thing back up so I don't know how many cans that is. I use scale to watch how much goes in, but in the old days when I was in school, we just put a temperature guage in the duct and added freon until the air coming out was about 50 degrees. I don't know if that temp still applies with 134, but you can always measure it before you take the car apart or have somebody else measure theirs.

  4. #24
    MANWHORE TEAM suede's Avatar
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    just our of curriosity, are you running this cam on stock heads, just upgraded springs?

  5. #25
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by azfrc View Post
    If I understand the post correctly, do not disconnect the ac lines from the condensor and just add refrigerant. Air turns corrosive inside an ac system. If you have do this, cap off the end lines when you remove it and when you reinstall the system vacuum it down before adding freon.

    Officialy I've heard you don't have to reclaim 134 so you can bleed it to atmostphere, but don't quote me on that. Just keep clear when you bleed it. You can get frostbite from the escaping refrigerant and you're not supposed to breath the stuff either.

    I would guess it's going to take a couple of pounds to fill the thing back up so I don't know how many cans that is. I use scale to watch how much goes in, but in the old days when I was in school, we just put a temperature guage in the duct and added freon until the air coming out was about 50 degrees. I don't know if that temp still applies with 134, but you can always measure it before you take the car apart or have somebody else measure theirs.
    No, on a Fbody you do not have to remove condensor. Leave it in, just tie it out of the way. Flexible AC lines allow this and give plenty of room. You dont dis connect anything AC related. Just hand the condensor.

    It is NOT Legal to vent 134A into the atmosphere. Wheather someone does or not, is up to them and how much they care.

  6. #26
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    No, on a Fbody you do not have to remove condensor. Leave it in, just tie it out of the way. Flexible AC lines allow this and give plenty of room. You dont dis connect anything AC related. Just hand the condensor.

    It is NOT Legal to vent 134A into the atmosphere. Wheather someone does or not, is up to them and how much they care.
    yup you are supposed to reclaim ALL refrigerant and not vent any into the atmosphere.
    on the GTO's we dont have as much room between the front of the motor and rad/condensor so we have to pull ours.


    how's your car running now, did you get the tuning done yet?

  7. #27
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    yup you are supposed to reclaim ALL refrigerant and not vent any into the atmosphere.
    on the GTO's we dont have as much room between the front of the motor and rad/condensor so we have to pull ours.


    how's your car running now, did you get the tuning done yet?
    Its tuned by Frost. Just with my software

    Frost (Steve) tuned my car by email in SD. With a wideband and HPT pro... its a cake walk for him. He took care of me, 100%. I rep Frost every chance I get. Ive talked to him for 30 minutes about HPT and my situation, and was trying so hard to keep up with his HPT talk. I asked as many questions as I could, and he tried very hard to dumb them down to dumbdumb level

    Edit, the FIRST PCM file sent. Let me re-state that. The FIRST PCM file, before any actual logging was ever sent... he sent me a startup file. My horrible bucking/surging was cut in half if not 3/4. This is just with a full detailed list of mods guys. No data logging fils sent yet

    Im up and running very strongly now, much thanks, and much recomendation to www.tunedbyfrost.com

    The mail order's have to be hard to beat from any competitor.
    Last edited by Hi-Po; 07-01-2009 at 03:17 PM.

  8. #28
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suede View Post
    just our of curriosity, are you running this cam on stock heads, just upgraded springs?
    Yep, stock heads with upgraded springs. Gotta set aside some money for heads, and maybe swap them later.

  9. #29
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    I beat my head against the wall for around a month figuring HPT out (good enough to tune my car) Steve knows and can answer just about anything.
    I do love SD, I think it gives much quicker, crisper throttle response.

  10. #30
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Parts:



    Cam is being shipped from Comp this week.

  11. #31
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    Good call on the ARP crank pulley bolt.

  12. #32
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    HI Fellas,

    Got all the parts and tools, planning to install tomorrow. One last minor question:

    Should I change oil during the install?

    Should I change it again after 100 miles of driving?

    Thanks for all the tips and advice.

  13. #33
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Yes to both. You'll have to drop the front of the pan down to get the oil pump in and out. Don't want all that oil in there when you do it. I would also put a few miles on it and then change it again but that's just me. Probably don't absolutely have too but I would.
    When doing the oil pump stuff a rag or sock in the pan so that if you drop the bolt to the pick up tube it won't roll back. DON'T LEAVE THE RAG IN THE PAN.....it gets ugly if you do. Also replace the o-ring on the pick up tube with a new one and take care not to pinch it putting the tube back in. That's actually a fairly common thing that people do.

  14. #34
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice.

    Well... Tore into it yesterday, got the front of the engine clearred off timing stuff exposed, drained the oil and removed the spark plugs. Spent 3 HOURS getting the balancer off :-).

    First thing today is to swap the cam soon as I get the wooden dowel into the passenger side of the block to hold the lifter... sucker won't go in easily like the driver's side. Then to springs.

    Couple mishaps yesterday:
    Disconnected the power steering cooler and drained it, then read that I should have left it in there. Do you have to prime this when you refill power steering fluid, or do you just refill it?

    Cracked an A/C hardline while lifting the condensor to pull the cam. Needless to say I completely depressurized the system into my garage. Thankfully, it is the upper line that broke, so I just need to replace and get the system recharged and hopefully that is it.

    Thanks for all the tips. ls1.com is a great community of helpful people! Cheers

  15. #35
    3-Time F-Body Offender doozjamann's Avatar
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    Damn. I saw this thread too late. I live in Thomasville i would have came and helped. Gonna be doing the same thing soon.

  16. #36
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doozjamann View Post
    Damn. I saw this thread too late. I live in Thomasville i would have came and helped. Gonna be doing the same thing soon.
    Hey Doozjamann, nice to meet a local guy on here! That would have been great to have help.

    Getting close to done after 2 grueling days. Got 18 hours into it so far, so make sure you like TRIPLE the time estimates you read on www.ls1howto.com lol. Hope to finish up tomorrow in a few hours more of work and reassembly.

    I'll post footage of my sweet rumbly cam when I get it runnin.

  17. #37
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Well, got the cam install done!! Started it up last night and everything seems good.

    It needs a tune, so it is reluctant to idle sometimes. When it does idle it sounds awesome. Honestly the 228R is a fairly mild cam IMO after driving it. Once you are rolling it drives like stock mostly. Had to let the springs have a heat cycle last night, but today I get to redline it

    Thank for all the help and advice!! I'll try and post up some video soon.

  18. #38
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Well, got the cam install done!! Started it up last night and everything seems good.

    It needs a tune, so it is reluctant to idle sometimes. When it does idle it sounds awesome. Honestly the 228R is a fairly mild cam IMO after driving it. Once you are rolling it drives like stock mostly. Had to let the springs have a heat cycle last night, but today I get to redline it

    Thank for all the help and advice!! I'll try and post up some video soon.
    now the fun starts! time to enjoy it!

  19. #39
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Well, got the cam install done!! Started it up last night and everything seems good.

    It needs a tune, so it is reluctant to idle sometimes. When it does idle it sounds awesome. Honestly the 228R is a fairly mild cam IMO after driving it. Once you are rolling it drives like stock mostly. Had to let the springs have a heat cycle last night, but today I get to redline it

    Thank for all the help and advice!! I'll try and post up some video soon.
    With a tune thats way off, I would take it kinda easy You have no idea what AFR your running without a guage or software. I know its tempting, but go get a tune ASAP. Then, have fun!

  20. #40
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    With a tune thats way off, I would take it kinda easy You have no idea what AFR your running without a guage or software. I know its tempting, but go get a tune ASAP. Then, have fun!
    True and good advice. I did stomp it today and it ran well, but I'll lay off until tuned.

    I called the tuner and have to wait 2 weeks to get in with him. Good news is he tuned it before and retunes are 1/2 price, so full dyno tune $200, not bad.

    I have to say the car feel pretty torquey still, and top end is MUCH stronger. You can tell the car has a nice new personality.

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