Getting cam, need install tips
This is a discussion on Getting cam, need install tips within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; lt1- yes swap the water pump. ls1- no. My friend has 235,000 miles on his original ls1 water pump...
06-30-2009, 05:21 PM #21
lt1- yes swap the water pump. ls1- no. My friend has 235,000 miles on his original ls1 water pump
06-30-2009, 06:31 PM #22
Cool, you just saved me some dough. Thanks
The oil pump is a no brainer, but I wasn't sure about water pump. So far no problems so I'll keep it.
07-01-2009, 09:16 AM #23
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- chandler, AZ
- 99 hard top
Officialy I've heard you don't have to reclaim 134 so you can bleed it to atmostphere, but don't quote me on that. Just keep clear when you bleed it. You can get frostbite from the escaping refrigerant and you're not supposed to breath the stuff either.
I would guess it's going to take a couple of pounds to fill the thing back up so I don't know how many cans that is. I use scale to watch how much goes in, but in the old days when I was in school, we just put a temperature guage in the duct and added freon until the air coming out was about 50 degrees. I don't know if that temp still applies with 134, but you can always measure it before you take the car apart or have somebody else measure theirs.
07-01-2009, 11:11 AM #24
just our of curriosity, are you running this cam on stock heads, just upgraded springs?
07-01-2009, 12:44 PM #25
It is NOT Legal to vent 134A into the atmosphere. Wheather someone does or not, is up to them and how much they care.
07-01-2009, 02:05 PM #26
07-01-2009, 02:13 PM #27
Frost (Steve) tuned my car by email in SD. With a wideband and HPT pro... its a cake walk for him. He took care of me, 100%. I rep Frost every chance I get. Ive talked to him for 30 minutes about HPT and my situation, and was trying so hard to keep up with his HPT talk. I asked as many questions as I could, and he tried very hard to dumb them down to dumbdumb level
Edit, the FIRST PCM file sent. Let me re-state that. The FIRST PCM file, before any actual logging was ever sent... he sent me a startup file. My horrible bucking/surging was cut in half if not 3/4. This is just with a full detailed list of mods guys. No data logging fils sent yet
Im up and running very strongly now, much thanks, and much recomendation to www.tunedbyfrost.com
The mail order's have to be hard to beat from any competitor.
Last edited by Hi-Po; 07-01-2009 at 02:17 PM.
07-01-2009, 04:25 PM #28
07-01-2009, 06:36 PM #29
I beat my head against the wall for around a month figuring HPT out (good enough to tune my car) Steve knows and can answer just about anything.
I do love SD, I think it gives much quicker, crisper throttle response.
07-06-2009, 06:10 PM #30
07-06-2009, 06:28 PM #31
Good call on the ARP crank pulley bolt.
07-10-2009, 06:45 PM #32
Got all the parts and tools, planning to install tomorrow. One last minor question:
Should I change oil during the install?
Should I change it again after 100 miles of driving?
Thanks for all the tips and advice.
07-10-2009, 09:06 PM #33
Yes to both. You'll have to drop the front of the pan down to get the oil pump in and out. Don't want all that oil in there when you do it. I would also put a few miles on it and then change it again but that's just me. Probably don't absolutely have too but I would.
When doing the oil pump stuff a rag or sock in the pan so that if you drop the bolt to the pick up tube it won't roll back. DON'T LEAVE THE RAG IN THE PAN.....it gets ugly if you do. Also replace the o-ring on the pick up tube with a new one and take care not to pinch it putting the tube back in. That's actually a fairly common thing that people do.
07-12-2009, 05:17 AM #34
Thanks for the advice.
Well... Tore into it yesterday, got the front of the engine clearred off timing stuff exposed, drained the oil and removed the spark plugs. Spent 3 HOURS getting the balancer off :-).
First thing today is to swap the cam soon as I get the wooden dowel into the passenger side of the block to hold the lifter... sucker won't go in easily like the driver's side. Then to springs.
Couple mishaps yesterday:
Disconnected the power steering cooler and drained it, then read that I should have left it in there. Do you have to prime this when you refill power steering fluid, or do you just refill it?
Cracked an A/C hardline while lifting the condensor to pull the cam. Needless to say I completely depressurized the system into my garage. Thankfully, it is the upper line that broke, so I just need to replace and get the system recharged and hopefully that is it.
Thanks for all the tips. ls1.com is a great community of helpful people! Cheers
07-12-2009, 08:01 AM #35
Damn. I saw this thread too late. I live in Thomasville i would have came and helped. Gonna be doing the same thing soon.
07-12-2009, 07:47 PM #36
Getting close to done after 2 grueling days. Got 18 hours into it so far, so make sure you like TRIPLE the time estimates you read on www.ls1howto.com lol. Hope to finish up tomorrow in a few hours more of work and reassembly.
I'll post footage of my sweet rumbly cam when I get it runnin.
07-14-2009, 02:36 AM #37
Well, got the cam install done!! Started it up last night and everything seems good.
It needs a tune, so it is reluctant to idle sometimes. When it does idle it sounds awesome. Honestly the 228R is a fairly mild cam IMO after driving it. Once you are rolling it drives like stock mostly. Had to let the springs have a heat cycle last night, but today I get to redline it
Thank for all the help and advice!! I'll try and post up some video soon.
07-14-2009, 06:54 AM #38
07-14-2009, 01:45 PM #39
07-14-2009, 05:11 PM #40
I called the tuner and have to wait 2 weeks to get in with him. Good news is he tuned it before and retunes are 1/2 price, so full dyno tune $200, not bad.
I have to say the car feel pretty torquey still, and top end is MUCH stronger. You can tell the car has a nice new personality.
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