Getting cam, need install tips
This is a discussion on Getting cam, need install tips within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi all, Finally decided on a cam, and gonna install it myself to get the experience. My motor has 100K ...
06-28-2009, 05:21 AM #1
Getting cam, need install tips
Finally decided on a cam, and gonna install it myself to get the experience. My motor has 100K miles on it. Here is what I am ordering and a few questions remaining:
TSP 228R on a 113 LSA
918 beehive springs
ported LS6 oil pump
GM gaskets and bolts
LS2 timing chain
Using the writeup at www.ls1howto.com to install, but still have these questions:
Should I replace the water pump and get a 160 thermostat?
Do I want to request any advance/retard on the cam - going into a cam only car w/ no power adders?
Should I buy titanium retainers and new locks, or is this a waste of money?
Do I need a degree wheel, and how does that process work? I read this an optional step but not sure I really get what it does.
Thanks for any tips you can add
Last edited by BlackSS1; 06-28-2009 at 05:29 AM.
06-28-2009, 09:15 AM #2
Now, if you can afford Ti retainer, absolutely get them. Any time you can get weight out of the valve train, its going to be an awesom idea.
You dont need new locks, but order a few extra because youll lose a few probably.
Degree wheel. If you have the time, and again the little extra coin... do it. Degreeing takes a few tries of you numbers not adding up, but youll know when you did it right. Im not gonna try and explain it through my words, there are some decent write ups for it, and I think COMP's degree kit has some instructions.
160 Tstat. Thats up to you. With my iron block, my engine wants to run hotter. No where near 160-170. It shows in HPT. Thats just my setup, But I think you qould be fine with a good working 180 and good working fans.
Come on back during the cam swap for any questions.
06-29-2009, 10:18 AM #3
Thanks Hi Po for the advice
Just ordered everything today! Due to the cost, I skipped the titanium retainers, and skipping the degree wheel too since PTV should not be a concern for this cam.
Also ordered the sweet spring compressor from speedinc/Crane.
Altogether looks like about $1100 in parts and tools to do this, not counting the dyno tune.
This is going to be awesome!!
06-29-2009, 11:42 AM #4
06-29-2009, 12:27 PM #5
06-30-2009, 12:16 AM #6
if you pull your condensor and rad it will give you a lot of room, then you can pickup 134a refridgerant cans from any autoparts store and recharge it yourself......i paid $24 for a large can with hose and gauge, read the instructions and its simple to do.
its a shame you don't live closer, I work for beer
06-30-2009, 03:08 AM #7
06-30-2009, 05:46 AM #8
06-30-2009, 05:54 AM #9
06-30-2009, 08:05 AM #10
I'll try to post some pics too.. i plan on puting in a torquer v2 soon this summer.. will have plenty of questions im sure lol
06-30-2009, 08:07 AM #11
hey Blackss1, why did you go with the 228r over the torquer v2?.. just curious
06-30-2009, 08:35 AM #12
06-30-2009, 08:56 AM #13
06-30-2009, 10:07 AM #14
The torquer v2 would have been my second choice, I know there are lots of fans of that one out there.
06-30-2009, 10:15 AM #15
Wish we lived closer, I could def buy some beer . I have a neighbor helping out who does mechanical work for a local NASCAR team, so he's right handy.
06-30-2009, 12:20 PM #16
There really isnt any need for taking the condensor out in a fbody application. I duno about GTO's. Just hang it with a bungey cord or some rope.
06-30-2009, 12:46 PM #17
06-30-2009, 12:52 PM #18
06-30-2009, 01:09 PM #19
Thanks fellas for all your advice
Would you recommend to swap the water pump while doing the cam swap? About $160 for a new one and new thermostat. Best I can tell it has the original pump in there.
06-30-2009, 01:11 PM #20
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