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Getting cam, need install tips

This is a discussion on Getting cam, need install tips within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi all, Finally decided on a cam, and gonna install it myself to get the experience. My motor has 100K ...

  1. #1
    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Talking Getting cam, need install tips

    Hi all,

    Finally decided on a cam, and gonna install it myself to get the experience. My motor has 100K miles on it. Here is what I am ordering and a few questions remaining:

    TSP 228R on a 113 LSA
    918 beehive springs
    chromoly pushrods
    ported LS6 oil pump
    GM gaskets and bolts
    LS2 timing chain

    Using the writeup at www.ls1howto.com to install, but still have these questions:
    Should I replace the water pump and get a 160 thermostat?
    Do I want to request any advance/retard on the cam - going into a cam only car w/ no power adders?
    Should I buy titanium retainers and new locks, or is this a waste of money?
    Do I need a degree wheel, and how does that process work? I read this an optional step but not sure I really get what it does.

    Thanks for any tips you can add
    Last edited by BlackSS1; 06-28-2009 at 06:29 AM.

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Hi all,

    Finally decided on a cam, and gonna install it myself to get the experience. My motor has 100K miles on it. Here is what I am ordering and a few questions remaining:

    TSP 228R on a 113 LSA
    918 beehive springs
    chromoly pushrods
    ported LS6 oil pump
    GM gaskets and bolts
    LS2 timing chain

    Using the writeup at www.ls1howto.com to install, but still have these questions:
    Should I replace the water pump and get a 160 thermostat?
    Do I want to request any advance/retard on the cam - going into a cam only car w/ no power adders?
    Should I buy titanium retainers and new locks, or is this a waste of money?
    Do I need a degree wheel, and how does that process work? I read this an optional step but not sure I really get what it does.

    Thanks for any tips you can add
    Call them and tell them you goals, that will decide how much advance etc you would want. Let the pros handle the cam specifics.

    Now, if you can afford Ti retainer, absolutely get them. Any time you can get weight out of the valve train, its going to be an awesom idea.

    You dont need new locks, but order a few extra because youll lose a few probably.

    Degree wheel. If you have the time, and again the little extra coin... do it. Degreeing takes a few tries of you numbers not adding up, but youll know when you did it right. Im not gonna try and explain it through my words, there are some decent write ups for it, and I think COMP's degree kit has some instructions.

    160 Tstat. Thats up to you. With my iron block, my engine wants to run hotter. No where near 160-170. It shows in HPT. Thats just my setup, But I think you qould be fine with a good working 180 and good working fans.

    Come on back during the cam swap for any questions.

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Thanks Hi Po for the advice

    Just ordered everything today! Due to the cost, I skipped the titanium retainers, and skipping the degree wheel too since PTV should not be a concern for this cam.

    Also ordered the sweet spring compressor from speedinc/Crane.

    Altogether looks like about $1100 in parts and tools to do this, not counting the dyno tune.

    This is going to be awesome!!

  4. #4
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Thanks Hi Po for the advice

    Just ordered everything today! Due to the cost, I skipped the titanium retainers, and skipping the degree wheel too since PTV should not be a concern for this cam.

    Also ordered the sweet spring compressor from speedinc/Crane.

    Altogether looks like about $1100 in parts and tools to do this, not counting the dyno tune.

    This is going to be awesome!!
    Please keep us posted and if you remember take picks of the hard stuff. I will be attempting this over the winter

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Thanks Hi Po for the advice

    Just ordered everything today! Due to the cost, I skipped the titanium retainers, and skipping the degree wheel too since PTV should not be a concern for this cam.

    Also ordered the sweet spring compressor from speedinc/Crane.

    Altogether looks like about $1100 in parts and tools to do this, not counting the dyno tune.

    This is going to be awesome!!
    You made an AWESOME decision on buying that compressor tool. It will make very quick, effective work. I also just bought one. Your parts total seems right on. Add some misc in there also Good luck, if you have any questions, there are many guys around here that can help ya.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    if you pull your condensor and rad it will give you a lot of room, then you can pickup 134a refridgerant cans from any autoparts store and recharge it yourself......i paid $24 for a large can with hose and gauge, read the instructions and its simple to do.
    its a shame you don't live closer, I work for beer

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if you pull your condensor and rad it will give you a lot of room, then you can pickup 134a refridgerant cans from any autoparts store and recharge it yourself......i paid $24 for a large can with hose and gauge, read the instructions and its simple to do.
    its a shame you don't live closer, I work for beer
    is that true????

    how much beer I have access to A LOT OF BEER what kind do you drink

    Would love to have someone help with experience then to go in it blind

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Sweet View Post
    is that true????

    how much beer I have access to A LOT OF BEER what kind do you drink

    Would love to have someone help with experience then to go in it blind
    what kind of work do you have planed? how far from Chambersburg are you?
    oh by the way, I like Amberbock

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    what kind of work do you have planed? how far from Chambersburg are you?
    oh by the way, I like Amberbock
    a little under 3 hours

    It all depends on money but at least a cam swap with all the goodies to do so. If money is better then heads and cam

    Do you have a kegerator?

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    Member Z28LS1's Avatar
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    I'll try to post some pics too.. i plan on puting in a torquer v2 soon this summer.. will have plenty of questions im sure lol

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    Member Z28LS1's Avatar
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    hey Blackss1, why did you go with the 228r over the torquer v2?.. just curious

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Sweet View Post
    Do you have a kegerator?
    no I dont....anymore
    lol if you would showup with a keg we wouldn't get much work done

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    no I dont....anymore
    lol if you would showup with a keg we wouldn't get much work done
    well that is true but I was just oning to buy you a keg instead of dealing with cases. I get beer cheap so...

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28LS1 View Post
    hey Blackss1, why did you go with the 228r over the torquer v2?.. just curious
    Just playing it safe really. Mine is 100% street car so "streetability" is important to me. Never read a bad comment about the 228R and it was available on a 113 LSA which I wanted too.

    The torquer v2 would have been my second choice, I know there are lots of fans of that one out there.

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if you pull your condensor and rad it will give you a lot of room, then you can pickup 134a refridgerant cans from any autoparts store and recharge it yourself......i paid $24 for a large can with hose and gauge, read the instructions and its simple to do.
    its a shame you don't live closer, I work for beer
    Thanks for the tip on the condenser. Was it hard to depressurize the a/c? You always hear to leave AC work to the professionals... of course if I had any sense I would leave internal engine work to the pros too

    Wish we lived closer, I could def buy some beer . I have a neighbor helping out who does mechanical work for a local NASCAR team, so he's right handy.

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    There really isnt any need for taking the condensor out in a fbody application. I duno about GTO's. Just hang it with a bungey cord or some rope.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    There really isnt any need for taking the condensor out in a fbody application. I duno about GTO's. Just hang it with a bungey cord or some rope.
    ok, I know the motor sits farther back in the F-body, but never did a cam swap in one. on the GTO its a must to pull condenser and rad

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    ok, I know the motor sits farther back in the F-body, but never did a cam swap in one. on the GTO its a must to pull condenser and rad
    Thats what I figured. I would rather have to pull the condensor then have the 7 and 8 cylinders buried under firewall though! Just thought I would let the guy know seeing he had a fbody.

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    Member BlackSS1's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas for all your advice

    Would you recommend to swap the water pump while doing the cam swap? About $160 for a new one and new thermostat. Best I can tell it has the original pump in there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSS1 View Post
    Thanks fellas for all your advice

    Would you recommend to swap the water pump while doing the cam swap? About $160 for a new one and new thermostat. Best I can tell it has the original pump in there.
    No need to swap the water pump unless its going bad.

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