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forging a motor

This is a discussion on forging a motor within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; whats involved in forging a motor, what does it do, and also how much does it cost typically...

  1. #1
    #587 pipes_ta's Avatar
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    forging a motor

    whats involved in forging a motor, what does it do, and also how much does it cost typically

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    Replacing internal cast parts like pistons and crank with stronger and more expenisve forged parts. The difference is how the parts are made. High horsepower applications like forced induction (turbo or SC) need stronger parts to take the abuse they are given. If you stay under 500hp no real need to go forged IMO. However if I were rebuilding a motor I'd go ahead and upgrade while i was in there. As far as expense it all depends on the parts you pick. Cranks can get very expensive.

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    NASCAR Go Fast, Turn Left ntimid8r's Avatar
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    It's basically new internal parts (crankshaft, rods, etc) which are made from forged steel. Forging is a design of pressing several layers of steel together, under extreme heat, then cooled together. Creates incredible tensile strength of the steel. By using forged material internal parts in your motor...those parts won't break under severe use from forced induction. Normal engine parts would more than like break from running 9 to 10 lbs of boost regularly.

    Cost wise is around 2-3 times the amount of the normal cast part. But think of it as buying insurance for your motor. Plus you don't have the hassle of taking your motor apart and paying for all new replacement parts if your internals were to break.

    Hope that answers your question.

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    Unless you want go stroker keep in mind the factory crank is good to 700hp or more.

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    What's involved is either buying a forged kit with crank, rods, pistons, and bearings (+-$2500), having your block machined (+-$1000), getting the rotating assembly balanced ($250), and assembling it yourself (bad idea), or paying the machine shop to assemble it, or buying an assembled forged short block from a sponsor.

    I opted for an assembled forged shortblock. No regrets.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by KP1 View Post
    What's involved is either buying a forged kit with crank, rods, pistons, and bearings (+-$2500), having your block machined (+-$1000), getting the rotating assembly balanced ($250), and assembling it yourself (bad idea), or paying the machine shop to assemble it, or buying an assembled forged short block from a sponsor.

    I opted for an assembled forged shortblock. No regrets.
    Yea i would probably do the same, don't have to worry about the shop messin it up.

  7. #7
    Junior Member seth_12's Avatar
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    i would go head and get forged parts for your engine specially pistons, that way later on if you decide to get a badass turbo kit or something you will be good to go.

  8. #8
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    I believe if you go forged parts your Knock sensors have to be de-tuned a little so they don't set off a false knock. I heard that but don't know if its completely true or not
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    I did change my knock sensor parameters because I experienced some false knock on the dyno. Not sure what was causing it. Some shops desensitize the knock sensors on all cam upgrades.

    The additional cubes and other upgrades will require a tune, so knock sensors should just be part of it.

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