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Thread: few very last things
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11-19-2009, 07:39 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
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- Saint Louis, MO
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- 1,705
Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
few very last things
I am starting my HCI swap the day after Thanksgiving and am wondering if there is anything else I should do before I pull the engine out. I've heard various things like grinding down a little knob on the head, ect and just wanted to make sure I don't over look anything. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated!
I'm working with:
Ported 243 heads (300cfm intake/200cfm exhaust - HELL YES), ported LS6 oil pump, LS6 intake, 231/231 .621/.621 112* cam, ported throttle body (607cfm), stock valves & seals, stock rockers, LS7 lifters, hardened push rods, Comp springs (forgot what series), titanium locks/retainers, adjustable timing set
I'm also diving into putting new stock LS1 piston rings and bearings, rehoning the cylinder walls and putting connecting rod bolts in. I'm ordering cam bearings and freeze plugs (if I need them) today as well.
HOPEFULLY - if I sell my new stock injectors, I will be getting new 38# injectors before I finish the work.
I STILL HAVNT DECIDED ON A COLOR YET for my intake/VCs, in reference to my intake/rails thread.. I saw a few glossy gunmetal colored ones that looked badass and now I'm just stuck.
Is there anything I could possibly be overlooking? I'd hate to get in there, do it and then put everything back in and then realize I forgot to do something important
PS I WILL have a build thread started when I do it!Last edited by tep98ws6; 11-19-2009 at 06:19 PM.
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11-19-2009, 10:43 AM #2
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- Dec 2005
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- Laurel, Maryland
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- 4,975
2000 Grand Prix GTP- 2000 Trans Am WS6 M6
Be careful when pulling the engine...don't forget to disconnect the MAP Sensor, Cam Position Sensor and Vacuum Lines from the back of the intake. If you don't you risk breaking them.
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11-19-2009, 11:31 AM #3
Make sure all of your bolt holes are free of any spilled coolant. I have read several warnings that blocks can be cracked when the bolts are torqued down and pressurize the fluid.
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11-19-2009, 12:53 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
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- Saint Louis, MO
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Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
Thank you guys, will do
Does anyone have a link to the grinding down on something on the head or whatever it is? I've heard it many times but have never looked into it. Also, is there anything special I have to do for the LS1 to LS6 intake swap?
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11-19-2009, 05:49 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
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- Saint Louis, MO
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- 1,705
Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
Has anyone ever replaced their wrist pins during a rebuild? Basically, I'm doing bearings, rings, "cross hatching" the cylinder walls and my instructor suggested wrist pins but I wasn't sure about them because I've never heard anyone mention them ... The bottom end is "good" up til about 700HP, correct? Any thoughts on this?
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11-19-2009, 06:16 PM #6
I'm not overly versed in LS1 motors, but some engines have their wrist pins pressed into place. Having them pressed out by machine can sometimes damage the pistons to where they'll need replaced too.. I would say if the pin does'nt exibit any signs of excess play you should be okay. However if they are held in with clips check them for wear and go from there. Good luck!
Last edited by Smittro; 11-19-2009 at 10:11 PM.
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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11-19-2009, 06:18 PM #7
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11-19-2009, 06:42 PM #8
2 posts down first link(1st page) shows where the opsu is and the second link shows you where to grind the fins so you don't have to swap to the 01-02 coolant lines.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...d-install.html
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11-19-2009, 07:19 PM #9
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11-19-2009, 09:14 PM #10
Good luck!
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