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Few ?'s

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  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Few ?'s

    Heres some background. I am about to rebuild an ls1 to drop in my 240sx drift car.

    Stock bottom end
    Lingenfelter oil pump/widend oil passage
    plan to run an accusump as I will be sideways most of the time

    stock intake/ignition/fuel system

    stock heads
    Ive gotten the heads worked on so I should be good to go there
    Z06 vavle springs(good to .600 lift?)
    new oe valves
    valve guide seals

    I understand whenever you have the heads off your need to replace the head bolts correct? does this apply to the main bolts and the rod bolts aswell?

    As this is my track car I would like to get the most power out of it but still be able to make it to the end of the season reliably. If I can make over 400hp Ill be very happy. Im looking for an all around cam. I need something that will break traction down low and have torque but not fall too flat up top either. I have a few cams to choose from.

    I have the stock cam and then I have a comp cam I picked up dirt cheap with specs simlar to
    Intake: .595"-lift / 232 duration @ .050"
    Exhaust: .598"-lift / 234 duration @ .050"
    Lobe Separation Angle: 112


    Is this cam too big? What is the most I can safely get out of this motor without ecu tuning or a fuel upgrade? Am I going to max the springs out and blow up? Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camo_2750 View Post
    Heres some background. I am about to rebuild an ls1 to drop in my 240sx drift car.

    Stock bottom end
    Lingenfelter oil pump/widend oil passage
    plan to run an accusump as I will be sideways most of the time

    stock intake/ignition/fuel system

    stock heads
    Ive gotten the heads worked on so I should be good to go there
    Z06 vavle springs(good to .600 lift?)
    new oe valves
    valve guide seals

    I understand whenever you have the heads off your need to replace the head bolts correct? does this apply to the main bolts and the rod bolts aswell?

    As this is my track car I would like to get the most power out of it but still be able to make it to the end of the season reliably. If I can make over 400hp Ill be very happy. Im looking for an all around cam. I need something that will break traction down low and have torque but not fall too flat up top either. I have a few cams to choose from.

    I have the stock cam and then I have a comp cam I picked up dirt cheap with specs simlar to
    Intake: .595"-lift / 232 duration @ .050"
    Exhaust: .598"-lift / 234 duration @ .050"
    Lobe Separation Angle: 112


    Is this cam too big? What is the most I can safely get out of this motor without ecu tuning or a fuel upgrade? Am I going to max the springs out and blow up? Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated!
    love the project man! 1) for what you are doing the main bolts are fine, but the rod bolts need to be upgraded. 2) get a set of comp 918 valve springs (you can get them pretty cheap on ebay.)
    3)you will need to get a tune or program like hptuners.
    4)fuel should be fine but a tune would tell you if your injectors are maxing out.
    are you doing seperate front/rear brake controlers/ lever?
    the car will be wicked

  3. #3
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    Ill go ahead and grab some arp's then, they're pretty cheap. Im guessing the cam I have is gonna be a litte too large for what Ive got then. This project is already killing my pockets and I dont know that I can afford to have to tune this things and upgrade the fuel system

    I was considering the 01 Z06 cam. The duration @ .050" is 207 on the intake and 217 on the exhaust. It has .525"/.525" lift with stock 1.7 rocker arms and has a 116 lobe centers. Im not sure if thats gonna be aggressive enough for me though.

    Ill be running slightly larger brakes, going from 4 lug to 5 lug and replacing the stock cable operated parking brake with a hydrolic brake so it'll grab a little harder and be more responsive when I need it.

  4. #4
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    I'd go with the 918s just to be sure, doing what you are, you definately don't want to float/bend valves. look into a lever operated front/rear brake controler too, they shpuldnt cost that much.
    go around to all the shops in your area in person with project details and pictures of progress.....you just might get a sponsor to help pay for parts

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    ill look into the 918s. you really think I may have spring failure with the z06's?

    are you reffering to a brake bias valve? shouldnt need it for what Im doing...

  6. #6
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camo_2750 View Post
    ill look into the 918s. you really think I may have spring failure with the z06's?

    are you reffering to a brake bias valve? shouldnt need it for what Im doing...
    lol yeah, brake bias valve....at the time I drew a blank.
    you will be at high rpms basicly doing a burnout most of the time your running the car, you could easily and quickly get into valve float territory and the 918s are cheap insurance. I would definately put them in.
    checkout (sponsoredwhips.com)
    one of my friends is working out a few sponsors through them for his MP3....might even get a free twin rotory tubro swap for his car. I can let you know how it worksout for him here in a few weeks....he just talked to them last night to get things started

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    Personally I would look into the Patriot Gold Springs, they are a dual spring and a little bit more then you need, but it is nice to have the extra insurance. Not to mention they come with titanium retainers for only about $255.

    Just about any cam swap and I think you should get a tune, otherwise you will be leaving alot on the table. LS1s in general benefit from something other then the factory tune. I know with my car I gained 21 RWHP almost through the entire curve just from the tune.

    Not sure what year LS1 you have, but if it is from a 2000 or older then you might want to look around for a LS6 intake as well.

  8. #8
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bottesini View Post
    Personally I would look into the Patriot Gold Springs, they are a dual spring and a little bit more then you need, but it is nice to have the extra insurance. Not to mention they come with titanium retainers for only about $255.

    Just about any cam swap and I think you should get a tune, otherwise you will be leaving alot on the table. LS1s in general benefit from something other then the factory tune. I know with my car I gained 21 RWHP almost through the entire curve just from the tune.

    Not sure what year LS1 you have, but if it is from a 2000 or older then you might want to look around for a LS6 intake as well.
    21hp gain? damb I knew it would help, but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference.
    been using one of my friends Hptuners on my goat, sofar just starting and slowly learning the whole tuning process and have already felt gains....im running it with an SD tune right now, deleted all the torque management, reworked the timing maps, and power enrichment. just need to get the time to dial in the VE tables and fuel trims......then new cam and I can start tuning all over again lol

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    21hp gain? damb I knew it would help, but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference.
    been using one of my friends Hptuners on my goat, sofar just starting and slowly learning the whole tuning process and have already felt gains....im running it with an SD tune right now, deleted all the torque management, reworked the timing maps, and power enrichment. just need to get the time to dial in the VE tables and fuel trims......then new cam and I can start tuning all over again lol
    The 21 gain was when I was exhaust and lid only. When we did the cam swap the difference was somewhere around 30-35.

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