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engine build opinions ?

This is a discussion on engine build opinions ? within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Im building an engine around a blower. This will be my first time putting together an engine so tell me ...

  1. #1
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    engine build opinions ?

    Im building an engine around a blower. This will be my first time putting together an engine so tell me what you guys think and give me your opinions.

    I have already purchased
    *callies 383 rotatin assembly with
    * forged crank,
    *forged H-beam rods,
    * arp 2000 rod bolts,
    *wiseco forged pistons with a 15cc dish to achieve a boost friendly 9.5:1 cr
    Could've gone lower but dont want it to be a dog out of boost
    * & clevite main and rod bearings

    During deployment I will be buying a D1SC procharger kit with 8rib belt upgrade ARP headbolts.

    Im keeping the TSP 233/239 598/603 113 cam. I believe the bigger cid will make the cam a little more tame and the longer exhaust duration will be good for the boost.

    THOUGHTS ????

  2. #2
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Find a good machine shop, cause you'll need to bore out the motor for the bigger pistons.

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    Roger, already got a quote to get the block bored out to 3.905 for the pistons, hot tanked, and get cam bearings changed.

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    Member RARON455's Avatar
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    good choice with the callies setup, thats the route I went with my 383, Top notch stuff, everything weighed and fit perfect. I ran the -8 cc wiseco set, Pistons were also fantastic.. You should have a combo knocking on 550-600 rwhp pretty easily. Find a good tuner, I know a ton here in Texas, but cant help in hawaii.

  5. #5
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Great choice to go with Callies and Wiseco. I have used both in the past with great success. Make sure your machine shop is on board with the project and he knows the application.
    I hope you saved some money for all of the other upgrades you will need like suspension, fuel system and driveshaft. Also, if you still have the stock 10 bolt rear pull it out while it is still good and sell it before you break it then put the money in the pockets of Mosier or Strange. Good luck with the project, get back to us when it is done.

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    Ok, dual walbro or A1000 pump ? Single A1000 appears to be more safe, as aposed to 1 of the walbros failing and finding out 5k $ later

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    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    Ok, dual walbro or A1000 pump ? Single A1000 appears to be more safe, as aposed to 1 of the walbros failing and finding out 5k $ later
    Dual 255 Walbros are sold as drop in replacements by a few vendors (none on here I believe, so PM me for a link), so that would be easiest. The A1000 is an inline pump and would take a little more work to make it work. Also, I've been hearing some internet rumors (take them for what you will) that the Aeromotive products are being made on the cheap and their quality control is starting to dive.

    If you're worried about loosing pressure due to a pump failure, why not get a fuel pressure gauge?

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    I have the Callies Compstar 383 rotating assembly with weiseco flat top pistons in my T/A. The block has to be honed 5 thousandths, the kit looked so nice I didn't want to put oil pan on it lol. It is definitely top quality stuff, I also did ARP main studs and rod bolts.
    Callies 383, Trick Flow 225, Rapid Motorsports Dominatior 2 X cam, ls6 ported oil pump,42lb injectors, FAST 92/92 , ASP underdrive pully, eletric water pump, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback, e-cutout, Yank SS 3600, Performabuilt stage 2 4l60e, Strange S60 ,4.10s, Detroit Truetrac, (UMI) - Adj. LCA, Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, Adj. panhard bar, Drag bar, subframe conectors, shock tower brace. 465rwhp-438rwtq 11.09@119.90.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    Great choice to go with Callies and Wiseco. I have used both in the past with great success. Make sure your machine shop is on board with the project and he knows the application.
    I hope you saved some money for all of the other upgrades you will need like suspension, fuel system and driveshaft. Also, if you still have the stock 10 bolt rear pull it out while it is still good and sell it before you break it then put the money in the pockets of Mosier or Strange. Good luck with the project, get back to us when it is done.
    the actual rundown is my wife totaled my car so i bought it back and pulld the engine and trans so thats what inspired me to do the build. when i get back on the east coast after this deployment i will pick out another f body to slap this into.

    i have also pulled off my spohn panhard bar, spohn rear lca's, umi chromoly SFC's, and the next thing i will purchase is a dual walbro set up and some 60# injectors. still gotta figure out what im doing about trans and rear.

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    i think im going to run the dual walbros on my own to save money the drop in dual walbro setup is pretty pricey. i have gotten advice from a friend to run a dedicated 4 gauge wire off alternator output wire and a single relay in the rear triggered by the factory harness. both pumps at all times and figured i would run an outometer fuel pressure gauge. . .

    ideas ????

  11. #11
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Any idea on how much boost you'll be running? Great combo picked out. Looking forward to seeing progress once you return.

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    Im going to start out with 8 and go up if im not at 650whp.

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    Member xssv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    Ok, dual walbro or A1000 pump ? Single A1000 appears to be more safe, as aposed to 1 of the walbros failing and finding out 5k $ later
    Definitely dual 255s in-tank. "Lonnie double pumper"

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    Ok, so what kinds of things can I do to make this the most reliable build. I want to do it 100% right the first time, make the power efficiently, not require upkeep (aside from oil changes and spark plugs). any ideas ? I have already purchased the most quality parts I can get my hands on but im sure theres other things I can do. . . .

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I would purchase the Aster tensioner over the Procharger tensioner. It holds tension on the belt better in higher boost applications. I have the Aster bracket and it's a very nice piece.

  16. #16
    Member xssv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    Ok, so what kinds of things can I do to make this the most reliable build. I want to do it 100% right the first time, make the power efficiently, not require upkeep (aside from oil changes and spark plugs). any ideas ? I have already purchased the most quality parts I can get my hands on but im sure theres other things I can do. . . .
    This being your first engine build and wanting to do it 100% correct, are you sure about doing it yourself? I know a good machine shop has been mentioned but would seriously consider at least having the short block assembled. Just a thought....

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