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engine balancing

This is a discussion on engine balancing within the Internal Engine forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; on a rebuild how important is it. Yes it's going to have a big cam forged pistons, stock rods crank, ...

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    engine balancing

    on a rebuild how important is it. Yes it's going to have a big cam forged pistons, stock rods crank, stock ci, possible power adder? I'm wanting to hit 450+rwhp on engine alone.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    The LSX motors are internally balanced. It's a must. It would run with out balancing, but do it while it's apart. The machine shop will send the crank, rods, & pistons out, and mine cost around 200.00 to have done. Check the reluctor ring before and after for damage. It caused me some seriouse headaches because mine got damaged a little.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    One more thing, don't use the stock rods. They are a weak link...

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    What the hell is a reluctor ring? That sucks I hadn't planed on buying rods. There's a hidden cost. I though the rods were alright just the rod bolts aren't?.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    What the hell is a reluctor ring? That sucks I hadn't planed on buying rods. There's a hidden cost. I though the rods were alright just the rod bolts aren't?.
    It's the wheel or ring with all the teeth for the crankshaft sensor on the crankshaft. It's actually two rings with a space in between them. Trust me, you don't want to bump them & have them touch each other. If you plan on building some power, I'd get a set of H-beam rods. They're not to costly.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Here's a sample of some cheaper, but alot better than stock rods !

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...QQcmdZViewItem

    Good Luck with the build !!

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    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    on a rebuild how important is it. Yes it's going to have a big cam forged pistons, stock rods crank, stock ci, possible power adder? I'm wanting to hit 450+rwhp on engine alone.
    Here is my two cents of thought.

    1. Like others have said I would look into getting rods, personally I would not try and be cheap on the rods. They are just to important and the extra security is worth it to me. If you are going to bother getting all the rotating assembly you might as well get a block with that and go up in cubes. This will also make your hp goal easier as well.

    2. Don't spend thousands on parts and then skip over something relatively cheap like getting all the machine work done or double checked. Just to much money at risk if something goes bad or is not set up right. Best to do it right once and not worry about it. Especially, when you might have an expensive build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bottesini View Post
    Here is my two cents of thought.

    1. Like others have said I would look into getting rods, personally I would not try and be cheap on the rods. They are just to important and the extra security is worth it to me. If you are going to bother getting all the rotating assembly you might as well get a block with that and go up in cubes. This will also make your hp goal easier as well.

    2. Don't spend thousands on parts and then skip over something relatively cheap like getting all the machine work done or double checked. Just to much money at risk if something goes bad or is not set up right. Best to do it right once and not worry about it. Especially, when you might have an expensive build.
    I'm sticking with the stock crank,block ,ci. Big cam, headers, forged pistons, stock ported ls1 heads w/bigger valves and patriot gold valve springs, ls6 intake.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bills98ta View Post
    Here's a sample of some cheaper, but alot better than stock rods !

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...QQcmdZViewItem

    Good Luck with the build !!
    Thanks for the link those aren't as expensive as I thought they would be.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    trust me Bill knows all about the reluctor wheels and he speaks the truth, so make sure the shop you use is familiar with the lsx motors and knows too.....i got to see his problem first hand and he handled it a lot better than I would have( unless he freakedout when I wasn't around).....i would have been patching holes in the garage walls from thrown wrenches and maybe worse...
    here's to keeping a cool head bill
    Last edited by mark21742; 12-01-2008 at 01:59 AM.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    I'm sticking with the stock crank,block ,ci. Big cam, headers, forged pistons, stock ported ls1 heads w/bigger valves and patriot gold valve springs, ls6 intake.
    if your doing this much work (trust me I know money matters to evrryone) instead of using the stock 241 heads, you can pickup a good set of used 5.3 or ls6(243) casting for real cheap (seen them go for under $100 on ebay) and then you have a lot better base to start with.
    just my .02

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    if your doing this much work (trust me I know money matters to evrryone) instead of using the stock 241 heads, you can pickup a good set of used 5.3 or ls6(243) casting for real cheap (seen them go for under $100 on ebay) and then you have a lot better base to start with.
    just my .02
    What's the difference in the heads? The bad thing is I've already got the stock ls1 heads ported with bigger valves. I had that done before I pulled the motor apart for the complete rebuild.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    The only real difference is what compression ratio you're looking for. My stock heads, ported, & a 150 shot, ran 10.80's - 11.0's !!!
    And a few other bolt-ons !!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bills98ta View Post
    The only real difference is what compression ratio you're looking for. My stock heads, ported, & a 150 shot, ran 10.80's - 11.0's !!!
    And a few other bolt-ons !!!
    wow that's impressive. My best was a 11.82 1.71-60ft@117.8 M6, so your saying I'll be alright with the stock heads with the mods that I've had done to them. my goal is to hit low 11's high 10's

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    wow that's impressive. My best was a 11.82 1.71-60ft@117.8 M6, so your saying I'll be alright with the stock heads with the mods that I've had done to them. my goal is to hit low 11's high 10's
    oh yeah you will be good to go with the stock heads, most people want to bump yheir compression up alittle when doing their heads....but then again we don't all have deep pockets to pay $6+ for a gallon of 100 octane lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    oh yeah you will be good to go with the stock heads, most people want to bump yheir compression up alittle when doing their heads....but then again we don't all have deep pockets to pay $6+ for a gallon of 100 octane lol
    amen on that one. I'm haveing to fight tooth and nail with the wife to slowly get the money to put the motor back together.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    amen on that one. I'm haveing to fight tooth and nail with the wife to slowly get the money to put the motor back together.
    trust me I know what you mean

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac View Post
    wow that's impressive. My best was a 11.82 1.71-60ft@117.8 M6, so your saying I'll be alright with the stock heads with the mods that I've had done to them. my goal is to hit low 11's high 10's
    What did you have for internals, bolt-ons, and gears for that? Thats hauling ass for a street car.
    Last edited by Goldcuffs; 12-03-2008 at 05:44 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldcuffs View Post
    What did you have for internals and bolt-ons for that? Thats hauling ass for a street car.
    Stock lower end internals, ls1 intake, heads done as said above, long tubes, air lid, Granitelli MAF, 4.10 gears, 75 shot(I think, wasn't anymore I went 12.2@114 on motor) and a tune from EPP, weld-in SFC and it was my DD.

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    crap I forgot the thunder racing 224/224 cam. also

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